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Dropping the T5 - Pull the bellhousing with the tranny or separate?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Chythar
  • Start date Start date May 27, 2009

Chythar

Recently finished repairing my rear
20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 26, 2004
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Foothill Ranch, CA
May 27, 2009
#1
  • May 27, 2009
  • #1
I've read peeps going both ways, but not a lot of pros & cons of either. The only con I've read towards keeping the bellhousing attached is that it's a PITA to get the top bolts without extensions and swivel sockets.

Are there any cons with unbolting the manual tranny from the bellhousing first, then unbolting the bellhousing from the block? It means more bolts to undo, but that's not really a big deal. I've heard of indexing the bellhousing before, but that sounds like a very advanced option that I really don't need to worry about.
 

94GTCoupe

10 Year Member
May 7, 2006
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CA
May 27, 2009
#2
  • May 27, 2009
  • #2
Chythar said:
I've read peeps going both ways, but not a lot of pros & cons of either. The only con I've read towards keeping the bellhousing attached is that it's a PITA to get the top bolts without extensions and swivel sockets.

Are there any cons with unbolting the manual tranny from the bellhousing first, then unbolting the bellhousing from the block? It means more bolts to undo, but that's not really a big deal. I've heard of indexing the bellhousing before, but that sounds like a very advanced option that I really don't need to worry about.
Click to expand...

I took it out w bell attached.

lossen the tranny to bell before removing from car,they can be a pita.

Posted via Mobile Device
 

94GTCoupe

10 Year Member
May 7, 2006
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May 27, 2009
#3
  • May 27, 2009
  • #3
davis3 said:
I took it out w bell attached.

lossen the tranny to bell before removing from car,they can be a pita.

Posted via Mobile Device
Click to expand...

on second thought,i would remove the tranny first,then the bell.

just seems easier.

dont forget some antiseize on the tranny to bell bolts.
Posted via Mobile Device
 

HGFireHazard

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May 27, 2009
#4
  • May 27, 2009
  • #4
Are you doing this on jack stands, or a lift? If on a lift do you have a tranny jack?

If you are doing it on jack stands I would automatically say separate and remove that way. Even with the transmission removed it took a good foot of extensions and a swivel to get the top bellhousing bolts out with some tricky maneuvering, but I have fat hands

You'll probably add 5 minutes to the job by separating the two, but make the time back up in getting the bell off.
 

Adam95GT

New Member
Aug 14, 2006
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May 27, 2009
#5
  • May 27, 2009
  • #5
DO it with the trans attached to the bell. Let down the rear of the trans slowly and it will give you room to get to the top bolts
 

str8stang036

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Dec 28, 2002
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May 27, 2009
#6
  • May 27, 2009
  • #6
I always take it out with the bell attached. The only thing you have to do is have the car up high enough to get out from under the car.
 

99FiveOh

15 Year Member
May 20, 2006
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May 27, 2009
#7
  • May 27, 2009
  • #7
I do them seperate myself. Less mass to deal with coming off the jack and easier to balance. And there's no question about which way to reinstall it, SEPERATELY! Getting the input shaft into the pilot bearing is a PITA when you try and stab the trans with the bell attached.

And you don't have to worry about indexing the bellhousing when you use the stock aluminum piece.
 

Chythar

Recently finished repairing my rear
20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 26, 2004
2,373
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Foothill Ranch, CA
May 28, 2009
#8
  • May 28, 2009
  • #8
The_Mustang said:
I do them seperate myself. Less mass to deal with coming off the jack and easier to balance. And there's no question about which way to reinstall it, SEPERATELY! Getting the input shaft into the pilot bearing is a PITA when you try and stab the trans with the bell attached.

And you don't have to worry about indexing the bellhousing when you use the stock aluminum piece.
Click to expand...

Interesting. This is the stock aluminum input shaft? Or the stock bellhousing? 'Cause I've got a steel input shaft on the way in case I need it.
 

S351Saleen77

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May 28, 2009
#9
  • May 28, 2009
  • #9
Chythar said:
Interesting. This is the stock aluminum input shaft? Or the stock bellhousing? 'Cause I've got a steel input shaft on the way in case I need it.
Click to expand...


I always seperate them and I have never indexed the stock bellhousing only aftermarket ones. And when you reinstall they would have to be seperate to index the bellhousing.

I think what he was saying is when you go to put it back in, it is much easier to Not have bellhousing attached to get the input shaft into the pilot bearing.

This is the very tip of the input shaft that goes into the pilot bearing thats in the end crankshaft, which you should be replacing when you have everything out. You will need a puller to get the bearing out and be sure to get the right grease for the new one.

It has nothing to do with the steel shaft you got which is what the throwout bearing slides back and fourth on.
 

Black95GTS

Active Member
Jan 8, 2004
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Marlborough, MA
May 28, 2009
#10
  • May 28, 2009
  • #10
I do mine seperate, but if I had access to a lift and a tall jack I would do them all at the same time. Bench pressing transmissions sucks bad enough without the bell to deal with.

Adam
 

ScratchinFerTra

Member
May 11, 2007
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Mebane, NC
May 28, 2009
#11
  • May 28, 2009
  • #11
Matt,
"The_Mustang" means the stock bellhousing is aluminum, and that you do not have to index it. When you buy an aftermarket bell you should check runout, as they are notoriously off. This is more critical when you install a TKO trans, as they allow less runout than the T5.

As far as removal, either way to get it down is fine, but I've gotten them out attached, then not had the car up high enough to slide it out with the bell on.

As far as assembly, I prefer to bolt on the bell first, then screw in some long (3-4") bolts with the heads cut off for guides, and slide the trans on. This helps as mentioned above to line up the clutch and get it in the pilot bearing.
Stan
 

ProKiller

Founding Member
Apr 26, 2002
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78
PA
May 28, 2009
#12
  • May 28, 2009
  • #12
ScratchinFerTra said:
As far as removal, either way to get it down is fine, but I've gotten them out attached, then not had the car up high enough to slide it out with the bell on.

As far as assembly, I prefer to bolt on the bell first, then screw in some long (3-4") bolts with the heads cut off for guides, and slide the trans on. This helps as mentioned above to line up the clutch and get it in the pilot bearing.
Stan
Click to expand...

i always pull the tranny first then the bell. just seems so much easier to get in there to work on the top bolts.

this is what i do also when putting it back together. makes it tons easier to line up.
 

99FiveOh

15 Year Member
May 20, 2006
2,051
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J-Ville, FL
May 28, 2009
#13
  • May 28, 2009
  • #13
Yes, the top bolts on the bell are cake when the trans is out. And there's nothing to bust your knuckles on when you slip off of a bolt or something!
 

Chythar

Recently finished repairing my rear
20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 26, 2004
2,373
140
113
Foothill Ranch, CA
May 28, 2009
#14
  • May 28, 2009
  • #14
ScratchinFerTra said:
Matt,
"The_Mustang" means the stock bellhousing is aluminum, and that you do not have to index it. When you buy an aftermarket bell you should check runout, as they are notoriously off. This is more critical when you install a TKO trans, as they allow less runout than the T5.
Click to expand...

That's what I thought, but I wanted to check first. I do not have access to a lift, just jackstands. I'm gonna remove the tranny from the bellhousing this time.

Thanks for all your input, guys!
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 14, 2004
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May 28, 2009
#15
  • May 28, 2009
  • #15
It's a million times easier to pull the transmission off seperately from the bellhousing, I don't see why anyone would choose to do them together. Stock bellhousings don't have to be indexed. You only do that with aftermarket bellhousings. The stock bellhousing is cast aluminum, so if it goes out of round, it will just crack.

Kurt
 

Chern_889

New Member
Oct 22, 2006
86
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Lumsden, Saskatchewan
May 28, 2009
#16
  • May 28, 2009
  • #16
Black95GTS said:
I do mine seperate, but if I had access to a lift and a tall jack I would do them all at the same time. Bench pressing transmissions sucks bad enough without the bell to deal with.

Adam
Click to expand...

I had to chuckle when i read this, ive done my fair share of tranny pressin'

Ive only ever pulled the tranny seperate from the bell housing, its only four bolts. Just make sure you support the bottom of the engine before you start un bolting, or else it will put all the weight of the motor right onto the input shaft, ask me how i know
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 14, 2004
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May 28, 2009
#17
  • May 28, 2009
  • #17
I got a decent transmission jack off ebay for $80 shipped. I always bench pressed the transmission for the Mustang, but I had to have a transmission jack for the truck. It's a good tool to have, and makes the job a lot easier.

Kurt
 

Foxfan88

My Grandpa has great wood.
Sep 13, 2004
2,487
4
0
Miami, Ok
May 28, 2009
#18
  • May 28, 2009
  • #18
I pull the trans from the bellhousing.

Although the last few times i have had my tranny out, i was pulling the motor. In that case i did the same thing. pulled trans and pulled engine with bellhousing still attached.
 
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