dropping tranny, how to disconect driveline from rearend?

JenkinsBS

Founding Member
Apr 16, 2002
1,001
1
39
Washington
im dropping the transmission and i need to get the drive line down. last time i pulled the whole motor, so it just came down last time...

now im just dropping it out of the bottom, i figured i could work it around so ittl come off after i get the tranny off the bellhousing. boy was i wrong... it dosent clear by like, a 1/2 inch.

so i tried taking those 4 bolts out of the back of the DS where it connects to the rear end, but those bolts will NOT come loose. i dont even know if there the right ones. anyone else have to do this before? if so, howd you get the mf-ers off??


thanks
b.j.
 
the 4 bolts on the ds do come off. but if they have never been off before, they will still have some factory thread-lock on them. air tools would come handy there, or if you dont have that you can do what i did. make sure you have the right 12MM 12point socket and put it on the bolt w/o using an extension. since you are going to want to be able to turn the wheels to gain access to the other bolts ur gonna have to get the rear wheels off the ground. anyways set the E-Brake and I had the rachet on the bolt, got out from underneath the car put my foot down there and either kick it or a lot of steady pressure and it should knock it loose. then i think you just slide the ds out but i didnt remove mine i just rotated it to kinda stop it from vibrating. im not sure on where to mark the DS so you know how to put it back in (because it is balanced), unless you are switching to an alumin. ds.

as for the mufflers, there should be four bolts on the h-pipe (two for each pipe) and they should be before the mufflers twords the front of the car. take those suckers out, and im not sure what your mufflers bolt to the hangars or they slide off of them w/a rubber grommet. you should be able to look at it and figure it out.

good luck :nice:

-Mike
 
ford puts locktite on them from factory and you have to use a torch to melt the crap off of the threads but don't scorch the rear ends oil seal. you are using a 12 point 12 mm wrench right. don't wanna strip it
 
don't cut it off just heat it up, yes on my 95 i had to heat it, i had a wrench and a cheater pipe trying to break it loose and it bent the wrench almost to a 90 degree turn.i heated them up and they came off, not without some muscle but it turned
 
well, heating them up sounds a bit easier... however i do have access to air tools.

how hot do you need to torch them to? i dont know what temp loctite melts at :p

and marking the DS? i could just put a mark on the rear end and mark on the DS so i can line it up okay


b.j.
 
i would't use air tools for 2 reasons. hard to get it in there since the drivshaft is in the way and the other is you don't wanna take a chance on stripping th ehead of the bolt off
just get it where it just starts to glow red. do one at a time though
 
You shouldn't have to torch them off. If you jack the car up far enough to where the rear end is just dangling, you should be able to get a socket and a breaker bar on it. Regardless, you can get the box end of a 12 mm wrench, and use a cheater bar and it should come right off. those puppy's have 85 foot pounds of torque.

I've heard of people using a jack even and jacking up the wrench, just be careful with that one though.
 
All you need is the heat of a propane torch -- not anything more.

I don't like using the foot method -- too much torque and it will snap the bolts right off and leave you with a bigger mess. A little heat and they will come right out. It works well for most any of the stuff like suspension parts, etc.
 
done!

alright, its done! :D

the torching worked perfectly, so that all came down without a hitch.

now about scorching the rear ends oil seal... how much is a new one? :p
i dont know if i hit it, but im thinking ill just replace it to be safe.

thanks!