Build Thread Dustys has a new friend

90sickfox · Dec 10, 2016

a91what said:
Did you mount the tips to the bumper?

No... I thought about doing that but the exhaust moves too much. The pipe would rattle in the tips.

Its a 3in. to 2.5 adapter. The tips have a 3in pipe in them.

To be honest.... I like round exhaust tips better....but can't put a round pipe in a square hole. That messes with my OCD [emoji15]

a91what · Dec 10, 2016

I like it looks mean.

90sickfox · Dec 11, 2016

Got another little bit done today. Shot a video for you guys. The car is dirty as hell but I'll clean it up when I'm done screwing with stuff. The tail pipe is crooked in the video....that has been fixed. View: https://youtu.be/M-UEN6fhapE

90sickfox · Dec 12, 2016

Came across this old picture of my 89 convertible.

CarMichael Angelo · Dec 12, 2016

90sickfox said:
Came across this old picture of my 89 convertible.

It looks cold in there.

90sickfox · Dec 12, 2016

madmike1157 said:
It looks cold in there.

I'm not sure what time of year that picture was taken. Sometime in 2006....

Let's see.....it was green in 07-08.....blue 09-11...green 12-14.....candy apple red 2006 back to 1995

90sickfox · Dec 12, 2016

I still need to find 4 exhaust clamps....they go on the back of my little resonators I use for mufflers. The exhaust is stainless except for a couple adapters.

The problem is that I need the 1 inch wide flat style clamps that won't crush the pipes. I want to be able to remove it when needed.

There I go over complicating things, again. Smh[emoji27]

There are adapters at the back of both mufflers that go from 2.5 in outside diameter to 2.5 in inside diameter. I can use two band clamps and get rid of that thing.....the pipes are the same size with only about 1/4 inch between them.

OK little issue solved [emoji12]

See....by the second sip of my thinking juice....I worked it all out. [emoji481] [emoji482] [emoji481]

a91what · Dec 13, 2016

90sickfox said:
Got another little bit done today. Shot a video for you guys. The car is dirty as hell but I'll clean it up when I'm done screwing with stuff. The tail pipe is crooked in the video....that has been fixed. View: https://youtu.be/M-UEN6fhapE

I take it you finally got the timing sorted out?

90sickfox · Dec 13, 2016

a91what said:
I take it you finally got the timing sorted out?

That was before I auto tuned wue... That was the way the tune was you sent me. AFR was at 19 then....

a91what · Dec 13, 2016

Sweet. I can only guess from my end, every HCI setup wants something different.

90sickfox · Dec 13, 2016

a91what said:
Sweet. I can only guess from my end, every HCI setup wants something different.

Yeah man ! It idled great...only oscillated a little bit when earned up. Now it swings 500rpm idling warm. I'll get it straight eventually. [emoji12]

Davedacarpainter · Dec 13, 2016

90sickfox said:
Got another little bit done today. Shot a video for you guys. The car is dirty as hell but I'll clean it up when I'm done screwing with stuff. The tail pipe is crooked in the video....that has been fixed. View: https://youtu.be/M-UEN6fhapE

That sounds so badass! You've come a long way from yanking out that 4 cylinder!

90sickfox · Dec 13, 2016

Got home from work and had a minute to really diag the last coolant leak. I bought a 180 thermostat to replace my 160. Felt for sure the housing was leaking.

I pulled out my coolant pressure tester....and it revealed itself.

I don't have a picture of it...but anyone who knows, knows that little bypass hose is a PITA. You know....that one that goes from the water pump to the thermostat housing. The clamp is only accessible by using a 6in 1/4in extension and a swivel....from under the turbo flange and the alternator. Originally, I had it turned so I could use a long flat head beside the alternator.....but it was in the way when I had to move it to put the belt on.

I swear I tightened that thing up....right before....ummm....ummm. Guess not.

If that dang thing was turned the other way I could get to it with a screw driver. [emoji35]

After I get it running right....that 180 will go in....and that darn clamp WILL get turned around.

Good news is.....the system now holds 16psi and no leaks. [emoji469]

90sickfox · Dec 16, 2016

I'm not used to being on this laptop but its better than having my info floating around the net by some company that feels they can do whatever they want....without permission.

Not much going on today. Found a small oil leak at the oil pressure adapters. Just a small drip...guess with 80psi of oil pressure that crap finds every crevice to seep out of. Was hoping to have the car off the stands and on the trailer by now but the exhaust is still not done.

On the back of my resonators ( that I use as mufflers ) I had a 2.5 inch adapters. The issue is that's 4 clamps...ugly. I decided to
un-jam the adapter from the pipe that goes to my tailpipes ( destroyed it ). That worked fine except the band clamp didn't work to connect the two, one was 2.5 OD the other is 2.5 ID...the band clamp is made for clamping two of the same size pipes. That means I wasted 20 bucks. The way to fix this is to get another adapter ( first one bent to hell ) or buy mufflers long enough to go into that intermediate pipe.

Now the PITA part. No one makes and sells a Cobra muffler by itself other than Flowmaster. The issue is I don't really care for 40 series Flowmasters. The cobra mufflers are offset in and out...but the pipes are on the same side. I can't find any info on the web but I'm sure a center in- center out muffler will fit. The search is on to find a suitable replacement.

With all the package theft going on this time of year I won't be ordering anything until after the new year. Guess I could remove the front bumper and put it on the trailer. The trailer has an open center so I can get to the exhaust....and I can finish the front bumper in a warm place....the shed...the back porch....or the feakin' living room. LOL The wife would kill me....if she ever found out.

90sickfox · Dec 17, 2016

RaggedGT said:
Congrats on the CT

Could you trailer it to an exhaust shop and have them bend up/weld up the section you need? Possibly flange it at you mufflers so you could remove the tail pipes?
Jones exhaust has a center in/out knock off flowmaster pretty cheap, I have the Thrush branded version, pretty happy with them..

http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5335821607&icep_item=201231852057

The exhaust coms off it a bunch of sections. I don't like anyone else working on my cars. If I had normal length mufflers they would slide into the other pipe and I wouldn't need a adapter. Right now, I need one clamp in front of each muffler and two after each muffler.

I'll check out those mufflers....Its not too loud now...just enough to irritate the neighbors.
Had another win today ! The clutch and the brakes work !

I'm still having an issue with the idle after the timing was corrected to 20 degrees commanded fixed and 10 degrees offset in Trigger Wizard. I idle now at about 1200 rpm fluctuating to 2k. PITA. I've checked for vacuum leaks and have tried mechanically reducing idle....It'll decrease to about 900 and then stumble, surge and cut off. I'm sure it'll get sorted out in due time. The idle was great before auto tuning the warm up enrichment ( SMH ) but the wideband was reading 16-19 AFR...now it reads 14.3.

90sickfox · Dec 25, 2016

Merry Christmas Everyone !!!

I went out and set the required fuel to 10....from 6....and the car runs a lot better. Idles back at about 900rpm 13.5 AFR

Decided I was going to tackle an oil leak I found. Figured it would be simple enough since I have about 6 adapters on my oil pressure port. I slide under the car and see oil leaking from the bottom adapter....pull them all apart and retightened them....start the car up....drip, drip, drip.

I slide under the car and start searching...can see oil put for the life of me I couldn't find the source. Start the beast up and ....drip, drip, drip...all over the passenger side of the rack. I recheck the adapters and they are tight...no oil.

Of course, I didn't cut the car off....I'm no wuss. lol

I notice a drip on the pan below the oil return hole for the turbo. I slide unde3r deeper and look at that hole I tapped....bone dry. And then I found this....

If you look close at the weld there's a pin hole. I've had this pan sitting on this motor for years and never noticed this dang hole. Now that the motor bis running its flowing oil over that corner in the pan and exposed itself. Been way too long for me to get another one under warranty. I swear I don't want to drop this pan right now.

I just don't feel like dropping the subframe or pulling the motor for this dumba55 pin hole. Does anyone have any ideas on what may work to patch this weld ? I'm thinkin' JB Weld...

90sickfox · Dec 25, 2016

My Christmas was great !!!

I've had great results with JB weld in the past. It works well if the pan is clean and roughed up a bit. The issue I'm having is that I want it to look good when done. That zinc plated pan looks great under my beast. Maybe, I can neatly apply something and touch it up with a dusting of gold paint.

The biggest issue is that I have to do it outside....and its cold. A lot of stuff has a certain temp window to adhere properly....including paint ( 50+ degrees ).

This little issue may cause me to ground this project for the winter...but....don't worry.
I've got plenty of stuff to mess with and post here..

90sickfox · Dec 26, 2016

madmike1157 said:
You will never get any epoxy to seal as long as there is oil in that pan. and even after you drain it,...there's gonna be oil in the pan. (In other words,...there will still be enough residual oil to contaminate the patched repair.)
So,...depending on where that hole is. (after you drain the oil) I'd put the opposite end of the car way higher to make sure that I could keep oil from trying to find it's way out of the pin hole,..spray the p iss out of it w/ brake clean and wait to see if the leak is gone. Then do the roughing up part, and epoxy that btch. But I'd use the "kneadable epoxy" that comes in a little tube. That way you can keep the repair looking decent.

Now,...as for your list:

#1. Flowmaster or Dynomax are the two that will come up in Summit. I personally used Flowmaster (Because it was cheapest)
#2.https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/customer/ford-edis/
http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/EDIS.htm
#3. Do not put your foot all the way to the floor, other wise:after that, I got nothin.
#4 If you're doing 2, you won't need 4.
#5. I believe that the muffler choices remain the same as what you have. From there, the tails are specific to the rear suspension.
#6. There is no "wiring" for the two cameras,..You just run them. The video that you create in the end "splices" the two seperate images together. Look into video editing software. It's way too involved for me,..I'm not gonna sit for hours and make some Cecil B. Demille production out of a video that'll get looked at for a few days, and get buried in cyber space.
#7. Move.

The good thing is the oil is below the level of the hole....only dripping when the return line is draining oil from the turbo. I picked up a tube of Quick Steel metal reinforced epoxy. Guess we'll see how this works..

With the IRS swap the mufflers are different, too. The mufflers are same side offset.....same as 99- 04 Cobras.

When I was working on the car on Christmas the wife threatened me. She told me that if I kept obsessing with tuning this car then she was going to send me to live with Steve. HaHaHa....that's a win for me....no more cold weather....and bikinis, beaches, and a single mans dream. lol

I'm going to the junk yard Saturday to strip an explorer.....I hope.

I've got to check to see if my cameras even work. They've been sitting in a tote for about 10 years...they worked when I put them there. If they don't I may have to get you to fab me up one of those camera jigs you put on your head. Not joking. I'll pick it up at Mustang Week....

90sickfox · Dec 27, 2016

@madmike1157 I will stop pressuring you buddy. Hope it all goes well. I've got some things going on myself but wont know anything until later into next year.

I fixed my oil leaks today. I've been a mechanic for over 20 years and have always used RTV on oil sensors .... Strange how Google had me use pipe dope...which didn't work. My fittings now have High Temp RTV on them and are leak free. The hole I had in the pan is also patched ( I think ). It was tough cleaning all the oil up...but its working for now and doesn't look too bad. I used Quick Steel....kneaded it up and made a point to stick in the hole, then messaged it into the missed weld. Seems to be working.

I've also come up with another issue. My oil pressure is at 70 psi warm and idling at 900rpm. I think I may need a oil restrictor for my turbo.

Going EDIS seems pretty simple....going to have some fun diving in the junk yard Saturday, I can't wait.

a91what · Dec 27, 2016

No you WILL need a restrictor in the line or risk blowing the seals out on the turbo....

Build Thread Dustys has a new friend

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