Build Thread Dustys has a new friend

Pics of the driveshaft in question.





This is where I had it shortened. Factory length is 65.5 inches. I need to measure it so I can tell exactly how much shorter it really is.



This is the other end with the nice weld.



Gotta figure out something to do with this....its the only rust on my car and needs to go. I'm thinking electronic cut out.

Noobz347 said:

So, where did the groove in the driveshaft come from?

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When my 89gt convertible got swapped to 5 lug I used a sn95 brake handle. The bolt I used was too long. I launched it at the track and heard the driveshaft bump the tunnel. That was done on that run. Its been good for a very long time....but this engine is making more power than all of my previous ones.

Almost there. Tomorrow I'll get the exhaust dropped and the t5 pulled out.



Anyone else remember these old Hurst shifters ? I've had this one maybe 20 years....jeeeesh where did the time go ?

Another wonderful day...



The ole'lady was clearing her ears out when I told her how much more money I needed to spend. The reasons are legit though.

The flywheel has hot spots all over...



Never gave me an indication....never chattered or anything.

Found a bad oil leak from my passenger valve cover. After running I did smell burning oil but only saw a couple drips in the garage. Thought it was the drain plug seal. The leak runs down the side of the block, past the starter, around the oil pan gasket, and down the front of the separator plate.



I just can't tell if this is mixing with a rear main seal leak or not.



So....I need to order a driveshaft, billet steel flywheel, spark plugs, oil + filter, and clean everything. Who said this car hobby thing was a good idea ?

Oh...and the 4 cylinder t5 started to leak between the bearing retainer and the case. That also found its way down to the bellowing and front of the separator plate. No evidence of it getting on the clutch though. Was definitely going to be a problem.

Glad I decided to jump into this now.

I'm going to have to get a couple painters suits so I can clean the bottom of the car. Guess they'll be no more driving before the salt hits....but next spring will be amazing.

7991LXnSHO said:

A four eye with a fake outer lense that swings open would not require as much fender cutting for a paintball or other gun.

If the other end of the driveshaft can be welded together, why not fill in the groove with a good weld? I have a FMS aluminum driveshaft from before they jacked up the prices, but both u-joints had some siezed caps and I was hunting a drivetrain vibration. After the price of the other parts, your SO might appreciate a show of frugality.
My spouse has not asked once how much I am spending on a project car. I think she might be internally go “LALALALALALA I’m not listening” when I bring up what I am thinking about doing. As long as we are not broke, she trusts my thrifty traits.

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I've thought about it... I was an engineering major in college. Something just doesn't sit right with welding a line on and empty tube like that. The proper way would be to sleeve the inside of the shaft in that area. Driveshafts twist a small amount when torque is applied. A weld like that is asking to crack. I may fix it up and paint it. It wouldn't bother me in something less than 350hp. Its shortened and I have no idea if it will ever work in a normal mustang again.

I wish I could go the inexpensive way ( like turning my flywheel on the brake lathe here at work ). I still may turn the flywheel in order to have a complete set up of spare parts. The right way is to spend the money and get good parts....that have a lower margin of catastrophic failure.

The woman of my house just wants me to get this car done so she can get a car for me to work on. Spending money is the faster way to get it done....she doesn't want excuses and could care less what I spend my money on....as long as I spend the same money or more on her project car.

I did a whole step by step process of how to remove a pilot bearing, how to apply loctite, and how to properly torque flywheel bolts to 85ft.lbs. and clutch pressure plates to 24ft.lbs.

Do you see anything wrong with this picture ?...



How about now ?....



That dang separator plate got my arse good tonite. Screwed the whole post up. I even had a story about how I used my pilot bearing removal kit...



Its late for me so here's the quick story...





Here's a picture of my improperly installed but properly torqued flywheel...



You would've thought I would've noticed my mistake when I inserted that screw driver to hold the flywheel still...but nope...



This thing just sat there laughing at me all the way until I wrote my first ( now deleted ) post.



It's all redone now and waiting for the oil leak from the valve cover to be fixed.

Picked up some new spark plugs too. Good ole 3923 Autolites.



I've got to run down to my farm in the AM tomorrow. Lots of work to do and an afternoon hunt.

I'll be back with more pics Sunday....smh