Build Thread Dustys has a new friend

#1,781
Had good day cruising around yesterday. Dusty is still not fully tuned but drives decent enough....kinda.

I got some time to record some datalogs. I still have almost no idea what I'm doing. It took me 5 hours just to figure out why my network adapter wasn't working on this old cheap damn laptop. I keep saying I'll buy another one but, with all the kids asking for Mac Book Pros, I cant bring myself to do it yet.

These are the 4 logs and the tune file. I've got the boost turned way down. I think the highest seen is 2psi. This is because there are some weird things that happen under load at higher speeds. It starts, runs, and has no problem lighting the tires up. The last log is with VP added and should be about 100+ octane if my calculations are correct. No flecks on the plugs- everything looks and sounds OK. I'm planning on changing the plugs, oil, and getting new tires this week. Oh, and I think the tiny filter is choking it up some. I'll see if I can pull a log with it off later. @a91what
 

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#1,782
Yesterday was a good day.

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#1,785
a91what said:
Can we get together at some point so I can fix a few of the issues I see.
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Yes sir ! To be honest I didn't expect you to get to it for a while. Just give me a time and I'll get with you....or text or call me. Lol You stay way more busy than I do.
 
#1,786
a91what said:
Can you describe the strangeness in high load? It appears that your boost cut was set at 155kpa or just under 8psi
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That could've been it. i didn't really have time to look over at the boost gauge. Felt like a rapid stutter. As soon as it happened i got out of it....tried again and same thing. I went into check everything mode. I hadn't had it on the highway until then. Ofcourse, i had to do a pull. LMAO.

Heres the log from tonight. Felt even better driving. I did a warm up but had my WB turned off. ( i can be stupid when I'm anxious )
 

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#1,787
90sickfox said:
That could've been it. i didn't really have time to look over at the boost gauge. Felt like a rapid stutter. As soon as it happened i got out of it....tried again and same thing. I went into check everything mode. I hadn't had it on the highway until then. Ofcourse, i had to do a pull. LMAO.

Heres the log from tonight. Felt even better driving. I did a warm up but had my WB turned off. ( i can be stupid when I'm anxious )
Click to expand...
And another trim, I dont like the startup so I made an adjustment.
 

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#1,788
a91what said:
And another trim, I dont like the startup so I made an adjustment.
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My start up is something I've been trying to sort out for a long time. My Kirban FPR bleeds off pressure emmediatly. The factory prime cycle doesn't do any good to hold pressure for starting. I have to cycle the key and then crank. Almost like the FPR is designed for people with a toggle switch. I pressure checked it a while ago and my fuel pump check valve works but the pressure drops through the FPR. If I pinch the return it holds pressure. Even thought about putting a one way check valve before the fpr but don't know if that would help.

I could run a ground output to the fuel pump relay to keep it on when key in run. Fuel pressure stays rock steady at 43lbs. running.
 
#1,789
My fuel pump is a 340lph. If I put a check valve in there it wouldn't help at all. Not a normal check valve anyway. I was thinking it could help hold pressure in the line right at the FPR so pressure wouldn't take so long to build. The directio of the valve would be wrong. A valve with spring tension inside wouldn't help either.

The solution would be to make it where power went to pump constant instead of priming like a normal car. I don't like altering wiring from the original way its done. That's why I haven't done it in 5 years. I'd have to build a new fuel pump circuit to tie into the old one. Or, I'd have to make a whole new fuel pump circuit. I could do it easily but I don't want to.

Takes about 2- 3 seconds of cranking to start it. Is what it is for now.
 
#1,792
90sickfox said:
My fuel pump is a 340lph. If I put a check valve in there it wouldn't help at all. Not a normal check valve anyway. I was thinking it could help hold pressure in the line right at the FPR so pressure wouldn't take so long to build. The directio of the valve would be wrong. A valve with spring tension inside wouldn't help either.

The solution would be to make it where power went to pump constant instead of priming like a normal car. I don't like altering wiring from the original way its done. That's why I haven't done it in 5 years. I'd have to build a new fuel pump circuit to tie into the old one. Or, I'd have to make a whole new fuel pump circuit. I could do it easily but I don't want to.

Takes about 2- 3 seconds of cranking to start it. Is what it is for now.
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I can picture a prime button that operates the fuel pump relay with a diode to prevent current from going back in the main circuit.
 
#1,793
90sickfox said:
My fuel pump is a 340lph. If I put a check valve in there it wouldn't help at all. Not a normal check valve anyway. I was thinking it could help hold pressure in the line right at the FPR so pressure wouldn't take so long to build. The directio of the valve would be wrong. A valve with spring tension inside wouldn't help either.

The solution would be to make it where power went to pump constant instead of priming like a normal car. I don't like altering wiring from the original way its done. That's why I haven't done it in 5 years. I'd have to build a new fuel pump circuit to tie into the old one. Or, I'd have to make a whole new fuel pump circuit. I could do it easily but I don't want to.

Takes about 2- 3 seconds of cranking to start it. Is what it is for now.
Click to expand...

Forgive the portions I missed. Can you describe this issue again? Does the normal priming routine not work for your car? If that's true, I'd say you have air entering into the system somewhere when you shut it down. Residual pressure at the rails is irrelevant so long as nothing is cavitated.

What did I miss?
 
#1,794
Noobz347 said:
Forgive the portions I missed. Can you describe this issue again? Does the normal priming routine not work for your car? If that's true, I'd say you have air entering into the system somewhere when you shut it down. Residual pressure at the rails is irrelevant so long as nothing is cavitated.

What did I miss?
Click to expand...

The FPR does not hold pressure when pump is off. The priming event goes to 43psi for 2 seconds and bleeds off immediately. When cranking it has to build pressure again to start the car. The valve inside the FPR does not seal off by design. It regulates the fuel flow for consistent pressure while pump is running. As soon as pump stops pressure bleeds off to zero. A normal ( like stock ) FPR will seal off pressure. After the prime it'll slowly bleed pressure over an extended period of time. The initial firing of the injectors are shooting pressurized fuel....instead of trying to build pressure while the injectors are firing. The pressure build causes a delay in starting. There are no leaks in the system and the internal fuel pump valve is OK.
 
#1,795
The Lady's left hand is out of service due to her trying to do open hand surgery on herself at work. Cut it pretty deep with a box cutter and needed 4 stitches.

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Because of that mishap she couldn't drive the car to my little photo op get together. She can't steer her car and switch gears one handed yet.

That part of my birthday didn't work out but I did get some pics with a decent 89 gt convertible owned by our friend Chris.

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We forgot the real camera and, apparently, the Samsung s20plus picture focus kinda sucks. I wanted to do a bigger group of folks but kinda called it off since Scarlet Rose couldn't be there.

...going back in time to Saturday....

I did an impromptu cruise for Toys for Tots. It was a great show up of folks for Stangs and Fangs Mustang Club. All kinds of stuff showed up. Then we cruised, with police escort, to the warehouse. There will be a lot of smiling kids.

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My car drives pretty good.

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That was it for my birthday weekend. Nothing else to see here...
 
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#1,796
I'm becoming extremely bored with this car. It'll drive anywhere. Still needs tires and an alignment. I've been driving it all over the place. Had an exhaust leak at the v clamp for the crossover tube. I fixed that and the boost is where it should be. Even scared one of my sons with a nice straight line rolling burnout at 30-40mph. I've got lots of body work and paint ahead of me but don't even want to start tearing it down.

I'd work on the Lady's car but she won't let me touch it. Lol

I really want a 64 fairlane coupe. That's the problem.
 
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#1,797
With turn key ecoboost swaps starting around 5k I'm really thinking about selling the drive train out of Dusty. He's originally a 4 banger anyway.

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Because of the 19 I had I know several places where I can get upgrades that'll put it at about 450hp. If they had a 19 with the 10 speed it would be even better. Doesn't seem hard to modify my AJE k member or have a hybrid driveshaft made.

I really want to do this swap. I may have to start watching the auctions. There are several pricy things I'd need for a swap like this. Figure my current drive train would fetch about 8k. 331 w/ported TF heads, port matched systemax upper and lower, on3 turbo kit, almost brand new tko600 ( built by Hanlon Motorsports ), 2004 cobra 31 spline IRS rear, stiffler cross member, and MSPNP2. I could put it on a running pallet.

I'd mini tub Dusty and get a nice fat tire under the back.

T top parts have been just sitting. Still unsure on that project.

This is what happens when I have time to think. :thinking:
 
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