dynamat to reduce heat and noise?

jay90GT302 said:

I'm considering taking out the interior and putting full dynamat under the carpet, my 5.0 is my daily driver and now that's its almost summer i need to make the cabin more comfortable, because it gets loud and hot. The heat tho seems to be pouring out of the shift boot, so how well would this remedy that? And as far as exhaust noise, is this my best bet? My exhaust note snarls real nice but just hum's loud around 1900, 2k rpms. I have stock gears and headers, would 3.55s, aluminum drive shaft, or aftermarket headers, keep the noise coming out the tailpipes, and less into the cabin? I checked for leaks of course and have none.

So have people had luck with doing with dynamat or anything else?
Thanks in advance for your advice

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I just went thru all this myself. Read this link end-to-end if you want to save yourself $100's and learn what works.

Sound Deadener Showdown

Here is my link:
http://forums.stangnet.com/782937-pokageeks-sound-deadening-pain-thread-pics-info.html

The only way I know of to get rid of the drone you are speaking of is is to buy CORSA mufflers, red or black you decide. They got rid of a huge amount of cabin resonance. I have tried EVERYTHING, flowmaster 40 series, 50 series, delta flow, super turbo, walker..etc.. and nothing works like these mufflers. The super turbo mufflers hold a faaar 2nd place.


"would 3.55s, aluminum drive shaft, or aftermarket headers, keep the noise coming out the tailpipes, and less into the cabin?"

NO. I tried that too. 3.55's will make it worse cuz you will be cruizing in the boom zone all the time. alum dr - no effect, headers zero effect.

Will cheap home depot insulation help? NO. Tried that.

Gears and exhaust note varies whatever exhaust/engine combo you have, I have 2:73s right now and I calculate that 3:55 will put me in the quiet zone nearly all of the time. On my car the drone stops at 1800 rpm and my vacuum gauge tells me that my engine is most efficient at 2k, so higher gears (numerically) win win for my car.

Pokageek said:

Will cheap home depot insulation help? NO. Tried that.

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So you are right, and TONS of other people are all wrong? OK.

Those of you with Dynamat experience I have some questions..... - Corral Forums

I have 2ch american thunder flows, BBK shorties, and Magnaflow Hi-Flow H-pipe with Cats...zero drone.

Kevins89notch5.0 said:

So you are right, and TONS of other people are all wrong? OK.

Those of you with Dynamat experience I have some questions..... - Corral Forums

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OK. I'll be your huckleberry. The ONLY part of your statement that is correct is the word "TONS." Because that is how much your car is going to weight to make that crap nearly as effective as whats in my first link. And BTW, that's a big thread, and SOME of them are correct and some of them are NOT.

I am not going to do YOUR homework for you. But since I am a nice guy - Here, let me give you a CLUE: ""half tar-like and half aluminum.."

So you in your "brilliance" are recommending to the original poster that he use tar and aluminum to sound proof the car. Do you go to a plumber for dental work!? I find your post arrogant, pointless and MISLEADING.

In other words, you are WASTING our time. Go back to corral with your tude before you convince some newbie to TAR and FOIL his car - just so he has to pull it all up because:

#1 IT DOESN"T WORK and it IS tar.
#2 IF by some miracle you lay down enough that it does work, you will have to weigh down your car so much you might as well USE CEMENT. The guy in your link used SEVEN roles and suggests it is lighter rolled out than when rolled up?
#3 EITHER WAY when it all turns to GOO in 3 months time after it MELTS, it LOSES it's functionality!!

Great advice! Keep it coming!

EDIT: To back up my claims (Kevin, try READING YOUR OWN LINK!)

red9250
First off, there is a big difference in 90 temps and 115 temps. The inside of a car can get well above the rated temperature of "peel and seal" in 115+ texas heat.

Secondly, peel and seal is a roofing material. I give you that. Go put some on your roof and then go up there and pull it off in the middle of the afternoon on a sunny 100+ degree day. I have installed "peel and seal" on the roof of a car port in the summer in TX and it made one heck of a mess.

I wasn't able to find the pictures of the dripping tar from the doors (Its been a couple years since I saw the pics). However, here is a link where someone had "peel and seal" from HD mounted in their trunk and it made a "gooey mess" -their words not mine. Feel free to PM them and report back.

I am pretty sure these guys are the suppliers for HD peel and seal now. If you read that page they specifically say "Storage: Keep rolls dry, protect from sunlight." If they are so resistant to heat as you say, then why store them out of the sunlight? Because sunlight will heat up the rolls and melt the backing and make a mess. Hmm..."

tim281 said:

I have 2ch american thunder flows, BBK shorties, and Magnaflow Hi-Flow H-pipe with Cats...zero drone.

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Tim I have heard a lot of great things about that system. I have cats now but when I had no cats when I was going to race it, I still had no drone.

As to the 3.55's It really depends on what speeds you drive. Here's a calc that will help you.

Ford Mustang: Mustang Tech: Calculators & Decoders: RPM Calculator

Yes they are premo expensive man. But I tried everything and it just didn't work. Let's see...I got mine for $179 each..trying to remember where..but ask more about the magnaflow first. All in all it may come out to the same money to get the magnaflow to do what corsa mufflers do but ask around maybe. Some peeps will say no drone with magnaflow where I would say STILL droning. It depends on preferences. I just knew with corsa at least I was buying a muffler made for it. BTW the sound that comes out of these at full throttle is nuts. I have never heard anything like it, awesome. I think I went red.


Here's more from my link showing you what happens to tar products after they break down either from high heat floorboards (each car is different) OR repeated heat cycles after a while. The "peal and seal" and home depot stuff is tar based not "butyl" based backing and it breaks down, heavy and it takes literally 6 times the amount to get the same result..Front of my trans tunnel gets real hot and parts of the pass side flooring and that's on a 75* day. I made the mistake of going with the "crowd" on the tar product but would have gone with something like "damplifier" if I could do it over again.



The butyl based product didn't fail. Period. I can move my tar based product around on parts of the floorboard already..sheesh..I know its failing. I am going to have to redo it.

p.s. "It seems to flowing out the shifter boot, by far the most, i read other threads about that and the best i walked away with was to make sure there's a rubber under the leather boot or something"

This is correct. But also line the trans tunnel with additional butyl based liner to help.


[edit] I also want to apologize for going a little bananas on the one poster. I felt like his post was a nasty attack out of the gate and didn't appreciate it.

MGW sells a rubber boot for the shifter, check of out on their website, it is listed with the shifters. I wonder if doing mass backed carpet would help more than dynamat? I added a lot of dynamat to the doors and trunk of my saleen and I can't say there was a huge difference. I personally would only use dynamat or cascade products for sound.

tim281 said:

MGW sells a rubber boot for the shifter, check of out on their website, it is listed with the shifters. I wonder if doing mass backed carpet would help more than dynamat? I added a lot of dynamat to the doors and trunk of my saleen and I can't say there was a huge difference. I personally would only use dynamat or cascade products for sound.

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I wondered that also. In terms of certain frequencies like "drone" probably not because it is using your floorboards and such as an instrument. I did lots of searches on peeps that used mass back and they said they "think" it made some difference..but not a lot.

As one person said, think of a bell dinging. If you put dynomat on the bell, it wont ding much because it is literally holding the bell. Its the same principle. Mass back carpeting is not attached tightly like dynomat. It will kill some frequencies tho. Click the "showdown" link above and also look up a product called "overkill." It can take 3 layers of different types of material to get rid of those sounds. The BEST way to kill the frequency is to get rid of it at the source with the proper muffler or combination in my 0.

I agree with what Pokageek is saying, especially on the sound deadening. One thing the article did not compare is a spray insulation and heat shield. While I have use the sheet stuff in the past and liked it we recently decide to try the new Lizard Skin spray.

We applied it to my uncles 67 fastback. We sprayed both in the car and under the car and a garage is a must along with very good masking skills, as it will get everywhere. It does a great job at keeping the heat at bay and there is very little noise inside, which was really surprising, since we didn't do the inside of the doors. While it is not Lexus quite in it much quieter than before.

Just thought I would share my experience with a newer product.