DYNO--80mm C & L MAF vs. ProM 87mm and the winner is......

TacBear · Mar 8, 2004

ProM 87 mm MAF

The graph is hard to see so here goes:

Mods are in Sig.
The only change was the MAF!

C & L = 236.3 rwhp and 280.5 rwtq--I never could get my car to Idle right with this on it. It would go back and forth between 550 rpm and 900 rpm at idle every time I would come to a stop.

ProM 87mm MAF = 241.4 rwhp and 289.1 rwtq-- Idles like stock A/F ratio is almost straight from 3000 rpm to 5800. A gain of 5.1 rwhp @ 8.6 rwtq at peak and almost that much from 2200 rpm to 5800 rpm. I think I will stick with the ProM MAF

mogs01gt · Mar 8, 2004

Did the car run more lean?
Was that dyno run right after the ProM install?
Was there a cool down period?
Did you reset the ECU?

Nick

Beau · Mar 8, 2004

good test

TacBear · Mar 8, 2004

mogs01gt said:
Did the car run more lean?
Was that dyno run right after the ProM install?
Was there a cool down period?
Did you reset the ECU?

Nick

> Look at the Dyno sheet, with the ProM the A/F ratio was almost flat from 3000 (12.6) to 5800 (12.1). The C @ L was all over the place, 3000(14.0)-3500(12.5)-4000(12.1)-5000(11.5)-5500(10.7)

>I changed to the ProM, cooled the engine down and reset the ECU before the 2nd pull!

mogs01gt · Mar 8, 2004

hmm, I guess my chip corrected mine.

Aaron 4.6 · Mar 8, 2004

Thanks for the good info. Not much tech on here lately, so threads like this are a breath of fresh air. I rode the C&L bandwagon for a year or more, but I finally came off of some money and went with the Pro-M 95mm setup. No dyno data, but I had the same driveability issues with the C&L. The Pro-M has been like factory stock in comparison.

EDIT-

where are the T/A and pulleys in the sig? With those you'd surely cross the 250 rwhp mark and maybe get close to the 300 rwtq mark.

TacBear · Mar 8, 2004

Aaron 4.6 said:
Thanks for the good info. Not much tech on here lately, so threads like this are a breath of fresh air. I rode the C&L bandwagon for a year or more, but I finally came off of some money and went with the Pro-M 95mm setup. No dyno data, but I had the same driveability issues with the C&L. The Pro-M has been like factory stock in comparison.

EDIT-

where are the T/A and pulleys in the sig? With those you'd surely cross the 250 rwhp mark and maybe get close to the 300 rwtq mark.

I am still trying to decide wether to Supercharge or not If I stay N/A I'll have Pullies, T/A, headers,cams, gears, Tune and maybe P & P heads by the end of the year

Hopefully 290+ rwhp and 315+ rwtq

TacBear · Mar 9, 2004

NasaGT · Mar 9, 2004

Thats good stuff. The A/F really is all of the place with the C&L. Sounds like you really do have to have a tune to use the C&L. Thansk for posting that TacBear!

TacBear · Mar 9, 2004

NasaGT said:
Thats good stuff. The A/F really is all of the place with the C&L. Sounds like you really do have to have a tune to use the C&L. Thansk for posting that TacBear!

I know of at least 2 others having the same problem with the C @ L

mogs01gt · Mar 9, 2004

I had the same problem but my headers riched my motor out and the Chip helped a lot.

TacBear · Mar 9, 2004

mogs01gt said:
I had the same problem but my headers riched my motor out and the Chip helped a lot.

I need headers!

StangLou · Mar 9, 2004

Get some L/T's . Mine go in on the 23rd. I hear ya TacBear, I dont know if Im going to stay NA or go S/C. Ive got pullies, cai, flows welded in, get my l/t's, mid pipe, and spec stage II put in on the 23rd, then Ill go with a TB/Plenum combo to top it off. Id like to have 290-300rwhp, I guess I will see, there are few believers on here lol. It probably wont happen, but if I can do it then I will be all If I cant then I have one hell of a set up to strap a kenne bell onto after I get forged internals
Back on topic, my one concern is I thought you had to send back the Pro M if you change injectors. Cant you just do a chip with the C&L and compensate for injector size, or can you do this with both? For some reason I was under the impression that the only way you can change the calibration of a Pro M is to send it back to the manufactuor (sp)

TacBear · Mar 9, 2004

StangLou said:
Get some L/T's . Mine go in on the 23rd. I hear ya TacBear, I dont know if Im going to stay NA or go S/C. Ive got pullies, cai, flows welded in, get my l/t's, mid pipe, and spec stage II put in on the 23rd, then Ill go with a TB/Plenum combo to top it off. Id like to have 290-300rwhp, I guess I will see, there are few believers on here lol. It probably wont happen, but if I can do it then I will be all If I cant then I have one hell of a set up to strap a kenne bell onto after I get forged internals
Back on topic, my one concern is I thought you had to send back the Pro M if you change injectors. Cant you just do a chip with the C&L and compensate for injector size, or can you do this with both? For some reason I was under the impression that the only way you can change the calibration of a Pro M is to send it back to the manufactuor (sp)

My ProM is calibrated for 19# Injectors and the C and L was supposedly calibrated for 19# Injectors. Luckily I had someone buy the C and L right after I dynoed my car!

P.S.: ProM makes a device that allows you to program your own MAF.

DYNO--80mm C & L MAF vs. ProM 87mm and the winner is......

TacBear

mogs01gt

Beau

TacBear

mogs01gt

Aaron 4.6

TacBear

TacBear

NasaGT

TacBear

mogs01gt

TacBear

StangLou

Active Member

TacBear

Similar threads

DYNO--80mm C & L MAF vs. ProM 87mm and the winner is......

Active Member

Similar threads

Privacy & Transparency

Privacy & Transparency