easiest way to pull motor
- Thread starter TNstanggurl
- Start date
CanadaStang
New Member
CanadaStang
New Member
........This is her b/f, and the cams being to big and causing ptv doesn't have anything to do with how good or bad I am at working on cars. Personally I think I think I did pretty d*mn good considering I am only 16 and did every bit of by myself. And after I cut valve reliefs in the pistons with a die grinder it ran awsome. Then it spun a bearing. Now I am putting a new motor in it, by my self. So I guess you shouldn't be raggin on me huh!!!!!!! Not tryin to sound cocky.
RickieFrat
Founding Member
I ain't crackin but you might want a extra set of hands working on this project.
2 1/2 people (including me) and a weekend to do mine. I add in the 1/2 because my sisters bf is a pretty boy and didn't want to get his hands dirty.
Take your time, there are gonna be times where you get p!ssed off ....... walk away from the project and go back later, or the auto body shop will love you.
I went out the top way. Jack stands and a cherry lift. I removed hood to make things easier. Just mark the hood w/ a pencil where the hindges were. Then everything else came out. Exhaust, driveshaft, tranny, then engine. I'd say everything went rather smooth. There were times where we didn't have the right tools or not enough. Just take your time. Any questions, feel free to email me ....... [email protected]
2 1/2 people (including me) and a weekend to do mine. I add in the 1/2 because my sisters bf is a pretty boy and didn't want to get his hands dirty.
Take your time, there are gonna be times where you get p!ssed off ....... walk away from the project and go back later, or the auto body shop will love you.
I went out the top way. Jack stands and a cherry lift. I removed hood to make things easier. Just mark the hood w/ a pencil where the hindges were. Then everything else came out. Exhaust, driveshaft, tranny, then engine. I'd say everything went rather smooth. There were times where we didn't have the right tools or not enough. Just take your time. Any questions, feel free to email me ....... [email protected]
It takes me about 1.5-2 hrs to pull the motor and tranny. If you have an air compressor it makes life much much easier. This is the order I did mine in.
1. Drain the coolant and tranny fluid & unhook the battery.
2. Take the H-pipe out and remove the tranny crossmember and driveshaft and put a jack under the tranny.(If you have long tubes take out the steering shaft)
3. Take out the shifter.
4. Remove the intake and alternator & disconnect the fuel lines and heater hoses.
5. Take out the top two bellhousing bolts and screw them in from the valley toward the tranny with the chain attached. Also use the bottom alternator bolts for the front chain.
6. On the passenger side of the engine bay take a 8 or 9mm socket and unplug both wiring harnesses and lay them in the valley.
7. Take the nuts off of the motor mounts.
8. Unbolt the powersteering pump and A/C compressor from the block and tie them up to the k member also take the powersteering pump resevoir off and set it aside.
9. Over by the fuse box on the drivers side of the engine compartment there will be several wiring connections and one ground strap from the block to the k member make sure to get them all.
10. Hook up the cherry picker and yank it out.
That should cover most of it. Also you may want to invest in a leveler it makes it alot easier to pull as well as drop back in.
BTW if those comp cams would have been degreed properly odds are PTV contact wouldnt have been an issue.
1. Drain the coolant and tranny fluid & unhook the battery.
2. Take the H-pipe out and remove the tranny crossmember and driveshaft and put a jack under the tranny.(If you have long tubes take out the steering shaft)
3. Take out the shifter.
4. Remove the intake and alternator & disconnect the fuel lines and heater hoses.
5. Take out the top two bellhousing bolts and screw them in from the valley toward the tranny with the chain attached. Also use the bottom alternator bolts for the front chain.
6. On the passenger side of the engine bay take a 8 or 9mm socket and unplug both wiring harnesses and lay them in the valley.
7. Take the nuts off of the motor mounts.
8. Unbolt the powersteering pump and A/C compressor from the block and tie them up to the k member also take the powersteering pump resevoir off and set it aside.
9. Over by the fuse box on the drivers side of the engine compartment there will be several wiring connections and one ground strap from the block to the k member make sure to get them all.
10. Hook up the cherry picker and yank it out.
That should cover most of it. Also you may want to invest in a leveler it makes it alot easier to pull as well as drop back in.
BTW if those comp cams would have been degreed properly odds are PTV contact wouldnt have been an issue.
DRaburn
Founding Member
CanadaStang
New Member
TNstanggurl said:
If you wouldn't have put one of the sprockets on backwards I'd be a lot more impressed.
well maybe so but that is how delk performance here in nashville told me to do it. You could see were the valves hit before so I used a air drinnel and a little cone shaped carbite bit and it worked fine for me. Then checked all my clearances and it worked fine. The old motor spun a bearing, thats why it is getting replaced, the cams would be goin in the new motor but we had to sell them to get it.billyfe390 said:
CanadaStang
New Member
TNstanggurl said:
Yip, we all make mistakes. Just remember to label everything your not sure of, so you'll know where it goes when you reassemble, and double check all your work and you'll be fine
What year engine did you find to swap in?
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