easiest way to pull motor

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TNstanggurl

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May 27, 2004

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TN

Dec 8, 2004

#1

• Dec 8, 2004

• #1

Hey, just wonder what would be easier on a 97 gt. Drop the k-member and motor out through bottom or pull out through top. I have to take the k-member out either way to get to the header bolts.

 

urban96

bubb rubb says:"woo woooooo"

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Sep 24, 2002

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Syracuse, NY

Dec 8, 2004

#2

• Dec 8, 2004

• #2

depends on what u have to work with (lift/jackstands)

 

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TNstanggurl

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May 27, 2004

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Dec 8, 2004

#3

• Dec 8, 2004

• #3

No lift. jackstand and cherry picker

 

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bdcardinal

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Jun 10, 2003

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santa barbara, CA

Dec 8, 2004

#4

• Dec 8, 2004

• #4

pull it out from the top. you cant safely raise the vehicle high enough with jackstands to drop the motor from the bottom.

 

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TNstanggurl

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May 27, 2004

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TN

Dec 8, 2004

#5

• Dec 8, 2004

• #5

well alrighty, thanks

 

CanadaStang

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Sep 7, 2003

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Mb

Dec 8, 2004

#6

• Dec 8, 2004

• #6

.

 

CanadaStang

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Sep 7, 2003

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Mb

Dec 8, 2004

#7

• Dec 8, 2004

• #7

Just don't let your B/F work on it

 

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TNstanggurl

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May 27, 2004

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Dec 8, 2004

#8

• Dec 8, 2004

• #8

........This is her b/f, and the cams being to big and causing ptv doesn't have anything to do with how good or bad I am at working on cars. Personally I think I think I did pretty d*mn good considering I am only 16 and did every bit of by myself. And after I cut valve reliefs in the pistons with a die grinder it ran awsome. Then it spun a bearing. Now I am putting a new motor in it, by my self. So I guess you shouldn't be raggin on me huh!!!!!!! Not tryin to sound cocky.

 

Modular2v

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Jun 30, 2002

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oklahoma

Dec 8, 2004

#9

• Dec 8, 2004

• #9

wow your 16 and doing all that???? i was doing tha when i was 15 haha.

 

RickieFrat

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Aug 13, 2002

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Dec 8, 2004

#10

• Dec 8, 2004

• #10

I ain't crackin but you might want a extra set of hands working on this project.

2 1/2 people (including me) and a weekend to do mine. I add in the 1/2 because my sisters bf is a pretty boy and didn't want to get his hands dirty.

Take your time, there are gonna be times where you get p!ssed off ....... walk away from the project and go back later, or the auto body shop will love you.

I went out the top way. Jack stands and a cherry lift. I removed hood to make things easier. Just mark the hood w/ a pencil where the hindges were. Then everything else came out. Exhaust, driveshaft, tranny, then engine. I'd say everything went rather smooth. There were times where we didn't have the right tools or not enough. Just take your time. Any questions, feel free to email me ....... rattlesnake281@cox.net

 

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billyfe390

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Aug 18, 2003

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Dec 8, 2004

#11

• Dec 8, 2004

• #11

It takes me about 1.5-2 hrs to pull the motor and tranny. If you have an air compressor it makes life much much easier. This is the order I did mine in.

1. Drain the coolant and tranny fluid & unhook the battery.
2. Take the H-pipe out and remove the tranny crossmember and driveshaft and put a jack under the tranny.(If you have long tubes take out the steering shaft)
3. Take out the shifter.
4. Remove the intake and alternator & disconnect the fuel lines and heater hoses.
5. Take out the top two bellhousing bolts and screw them in from the valley toward the tranny with the chain attached. Also use the bottom alternator bolts for the front chain.
6. On the passenger side of the engine bay take a 8 or 9mm socket and unplug both wiring harnesses and lay them in the valley.
7. Take the nuts off of the motor mounts.
8. Unbolt the powersteering pump and A/C compressor from the block and tie them up to the k member also take the powersteering pump resevoir off and set it aside.
9. Over by the fuse box on the drivers side of the engine compartment there will be several wiring connections and one ground strap from the block to the k member make sure to get them all.
10. Hook up the cherry picker and yank it out.

That should cover most of it. Also you may want to invest in a leveler it makes it alot easier to pull as well as drop back in.

BTW if those comp cams would have been degreed properly odds are PTV contact wouldnt have been an issue.

 

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Pitch Black

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Jul 17, 2004

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Dec 8, 2004

#12

• Dec 8, 2004

• #12

Modular2v said:

wow your 16 and doing all that???? i was doing tha when i was 15 haha.

Click to expand...

Wow, I'm 21 and still haven't done any of that

 

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rconaway

Founding Member

Nov 11, 1999

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Phoenix, Az.

Dec 9, 2004

#13

• Dec 9, 2004

• #13

I did mine and had never done one also. Take your time. Get a camera and photo everything from every angle. Get plastic bags and document every one you take out. It's much easier with 2 guys but I did most of it myself.

 

DRaburn

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Apr 1, 1999

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Dec 9, 2004

#14

• Dec 9, 2004

• #14

Plastic bags are the key!

(For real...)

It helped us do the mach 1 racers for sure!

 

CanadaStang

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Sep 7, 2003

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Mb

Dec 9, 2004

#15

• Dec 9, 2004

• #15

TNstanggurl said:

........This is her b/f, and the cams being to big and causing ptv doesn't have anything to do with how good or bad I am at working on cars. Personally I think I think I did pretty d*mn good considering I am only 16 and did every bit of by myself. And after I cut valve reliefs in the pistons with a die grinder it ran awsome. Then it spun a bearing. Now I am putting a new motor in it, by my self. So I guess you shouldn't be raggin on me huh!!!!!!! Not tryin to sound cocky.

Click to expand...

If you wouldn't have put one of the sprockets on backwards I'd be a lot more impressed.

 

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billyfe390

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Aug 18, 2003

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Dec 9, 2004

#16

• Dec 9, 2004

• #16

TNstanggurl said:

And after I cut valve reliefs in the pistons with a die grinder it ran awsome.

Click to expand...

I just cought that.

You do not fly cut pistons that way that is just half assed and retarded.

 

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TNstanggurl

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May 27, 2004

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TN

Dec 9, 2004

#17

• Dec 9, 2004

• #17

billyfe390 said:

I just cought that.

You do not fly cut pistons that way that is just half assed and retarded.

Click to expand...

well maybe so but that is how delk performance here in nashville told me to do it. You could see were the valves hit before so I used a air drinnel and a little cone shaped carbite bit and it worked fine for me. Then checked all my clearances and it worked fine. The old motor spun a bearing, thats why it is getting replaced, the cams would be goin in the new motor but we had to sell them to get it.

 

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TNstanggurl

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May 27, 2004

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TN

Dec 9, 2004

#18

• Dec 9, 2004

• #18

CanadaStang said:

If you wouldn't have put one of the sprockets on backwards I'd be a lot more impressed.

Click to expand...

thats what happens when you have been working on a car all day and start rushing yourself. That mistake will never happen again, for D*MN sure.

 

CanadaStang

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Sep 7, 2003

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Mb

Dec 9, 2004

#19

• Dec 9, 2004

• #19

TNstanggurl said:

thats what happens when you have been working on a car all day and start rushing yourself. That mistake will never happen again, for D*MN sure.

Click to expand...

Yip, we all make mistakes. Just remember to label everything your not sure of, so you'll know where it goes when you reassemble, and double check all your work and you'll be fine

What year engine did you find to swap in?

 

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TNstanggurl

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May 27, 2004

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Dec 10, 2004

#20

• Dec 10, 2004

• #20

its a 98 gt motor with 50k on it, and i'm gonna slap on the PI intake. Got a real good deal on it