Fuel ebay fuel pumps
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A 340 is way too much for you and you really won’t take advantage of what the 255 has to offer either. If you’re gonna upgrade, might as well get at least a 155 though. Some extra fuel won’t.
On that note, a good fuel pump is like $90. Why skimp on a crucial part that keeps your car operational? The tre performance are decent pumps for the price, I think they’re like $70.
On that note, a good fuel pump is like $90. Why skimp on a crucial part that keeps your car operational? The tre performance are decent pumps for the price, I think they’re like $70.
If your mostly stock, 155 or 190 is all you need.
A good walbro pump is $100. I'd gladly pay $80 more to increase my chances of not getting stranded on the side of the road when a $20 pump fails
Walbro is the oe supplier
A good walbro pump is $100. I'd gladly pay $80 more to increase my chances of not getting stranded on the side of the road when a $20 pump fails
Walbro is the oe supplier
google brought me to this thread I'll see if you reply. Looks like some guys are still on the boards lol.
I'm considering the Tre Performance 340 for my 95's SC build. At $99 bucks on sale I definitley love the price. Another thing I love about Tre is their sales last a long time lol. Bought my V3 black friday last year and gotta get one for my 95 build as well
A walbro Gss340 (high pressure 255lph pump) is only a few more dollars and will support pretty much anything that can be run on a stock fuel system which maxes out just over 500rwhp. Which i'll assume is what you are doing since these pumps are made to go in the stock hanger.
a few dollars more than what? I need a 340 as the 255 will not suffice for a blower setup making over 500 to the wheels
I personally don't see the point in a pump that size on a stock hanger.
Unless you have a dart block and a complete fuel system, i don't see a point in a true 340lph pump. And you if you do have a dart block and a fuel system you wouldn't be using the stock lines and hanger.
You would be using something like this:
lmr.com
Unless you have a dart block and a complete fuel system, i don't see a point in a true 340lph pump. And you if you do have a dart block and a fuel system you wouldn't be using the stock lines and hanger.
You would be using something like this:
Aeromotive Mustang 340 Stealth In-Tank Fuel Pump Assembly (86-97) 18638
Support your high horsepower 1986-1997 Ford Mustang with this Aeromotive 340LPH stealth fuel pump assembly!
lmr.com
well I've had quite a few folks use it with the stock hanger and even without upgrading the wiring, ( one of them on a fox) and no issues.....I personally don't see the point in a pump that size on a stock hanger.
Unless you have a dart block and a complete fuel system, i don't see a point in a true 340lph pump. And you if you do have a dart block and a fuel system you wouldn't be using the stock lines and hanger.
You would be using something like this:
Aeromotive Mustang 340 Stealth In-Tank Fuel Pump Assembly (86-97) 18638
Support your high horsepower 1986-1997 Ford Mustang with this Aeromotive 340LPH stealth fuel pump assembly!
I have a plan for the 340 using a 75A siemens relay and probably the aeromotive hanger setup so it can accept the larger wire but for now here's what I'll do:
What I'm going to do though is just run the 255 for now since it's already in. It's not a new pump but one I took out of my other 95 so I'll just run it for now. When it dies, then I'll proceed with the 340 and upgrades for it. I have 42's already that I bought when I was going to go NA first then boost later but I'll go ahead and get 60's since I'm going straight boost. I'll let the tuner put a good safe tune for whatever the 255 can put out safely without it being at the max level of overworking it or keeping up with the injectors.
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My point wasn't that you can't run that pump, it was that it doesn't make sense to on a stock fuel system.
42s and a gss340 have been run successfully for a lifetime up to 500rwhp and if you go much further you need the entire fuel system, not just the pump.
To be clear the Gss340 is the high pressure version of a 255lph pump, they are NOT the same.
The block doesn't even support 500rwhp reliably.
If this is for a real 94 cobra with an original 2 bolt main shortblock I wouldn't be going anywhere near 500rwhp. I'd stop well short, splitting a block is a catastrophic failure that could cost you 10 grand to fix, all so you could brag to your buddy's that you make over 500rwhp, when in reality on the street you couldn't tell the difference between 450 and 500.
42s and a gss340 have been run successfully for a lifetime up to 500rwhp and if you go much further you need the entire fuel system, not just the pump.
To be clear the Gss340 is the high pressure version of a 255lph pump, they are NOT the same.
The block doesn't even support 500rwhp reliably.
If this is for a real 94 cobra with an original 2 bolt main shortblock I wouldn't be going anywhere near 500rwhp. I'd stop well short, splitting a block is a catastrophic failure that could cost you 10 grand to fix, all so you could brag to your buddy's that you make over 500rwhp, when in reality on the street you couldn't tell the difference between 450 and 500.
All of these things I know lol. I know the difference between the two pumps as well. I also know that when you say 42's and the 340 good to 500 HP it's different from Na to boost correct? Sure is better to be safe overall but there have been people running up to 5:30 5:50 keeping the RPMs below 6K and their engines lasting. Plus I'm not one that I'm not one who dogs their car matter of fact I baby them a good bit for the most part.
Sure I know it only takes one time for it to blow up but I think for the way I drive and even playing around with it sometimes I think it'll be safe. The tuner will do a nice safe tune and will do what is safe if that's short of 500 then I'll live with that until I upgrade things later.
Plus I have a fuel pressure gauge as well as a boost vacuum wideband air fuel inside the car...
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gkomo
now i can hopefully expect to receive the shaft
Always makes me wonder how these evos and civics and 2jz’s and bimmers make 1,000 horsepower and we have built v8’s with H/C/I plus boost making 500-700hp.
No torque. I am orig owner EVO8 with bolts on (about 450 wheel), and I think the wife's 23 2.0 Escape would blow the doors off it in an impromptu drag race, if the EVO driver was not tacking up and ready for it, LOL!!! EVO powerband is DEAD below 3K RPM...
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I can only compare my Chinese ignition box for my OVERPRICED JD Lawnmower. Embarrassed to call this overpriced POS a " tractor" ...... John Deere wanted $115 for the new part, while I found it on Amazon for $26.. Both looked exactly the same and both are made in China....
The $26 part lasted one year before it did exactly what the original POS one did, lose spark after it gets warm.... Not sure if I will splurge on the JD part or use this POS for target practice.....
The $26 part lasted one year before it did exactly what the original POS one did, lose spark after it gets warm.... Not sure if I will splurge on the JD part or use this POS for target practice.....
Sounds like you can use the $26 dollar parts for about 5 years vs one of the JD part and you get five times the target practice.
Its actually not running now... Its about 11 years old, the really old metal bodied ones were supposed to be the best ones...I'd sell that POS while it's still running and try finding one made in the US and built by the same company that pooped their label onto it.
I wonder if any still exist.
Honestly, I think the Japanese have the best tractors in our current market.
That little 3 cylinder diesel that they put in [everything] is near bullet proof.
I once worked near an MTD plant in Canada. They made JD, White, Toro, Craftsman, MTD, Cub Cadet, Yardworks (and possible some others). At the time you could easily tell as they all looked the same - just color and sticker differences. Shape of the hood, styling - all the same.
My dad had a Kubota G5200 lawn mower 30-35 years ago. He used and abused it the whole time. We rebuilt the mower deck twice and boiled the coolant out at least 10-12 times, each time the engine would just stop (the rad screens would plug up with grass and weed debris stopping air flow). We would wait an hour or two, add some water back in the rad and it would start right up and run normal again. You couldn't kill it. After 20+ years it finally wasn't running right so my dad got rid of it. A nephew picked it up and changed a second fuel filter we never knew existed and it ran like a charm again. You can't kill those Kubota 3 cyl. diesels from the 90's.
My dad had a Kubota G5200 lawn mower 30-35 years ago. He used and abused it the whole time. We rebuilt the mower deck twice and boiled the coolant out at least 10-12 times, each time the engine would just stop (the rad screens would plug up with grass and weed debris stopping air flow). We would wait an hour or two, add some water back in the rad and it would start right up and run normal again. You couldn't kill it. After 20+ years it finally wasn't running right so my dad got rid of it. A nephew picked it up and changed a second fuel filter we never knew existed and it ran like a charm again. You can't kill those Kubota 3 cyl. diesels from the 90's.
