EFI conversion help!!!

67staaang · May 15, 2005

what do you mean by the tank was baffled?

TT670 · May 16, 2005

Theres nothing wrong with longtubes on an EFI car, Im using them and they work great, I located both Hegos as far fwd in the collector as I could get them. Aftermarket mass air meters are the BIGGEST cause of driveability issues.

A baffled tank is a tank that has had baffles installed inside, this reduces fuel sloshing to prevent uncovering the fuel pickup and allowing the fuel pump to suck air.

67staaang · May 16, 2005

hey how much did you guys get your upper and lower EFI intake for? including injectors, throttle body, fuel rail and regulator ?

70XR7ConvertCat · May 16, 2005

In my case, I went to some expense. 70 mm Accufab throttle body, 70 mm Pro-M Mass Air meter (Best Products is now out of business) calibrated for 24 lb. injectors, a set of 24 lb. injectors, and a ported '93 Cobra upper and lower intake (Ebay), and a K&N Filter means I probably have at least $1000 in the induction. I used the stock fuel rails from the '93 Mustang 5.0 H.O. donor.

TT670 · May 16, 2005

Mine wasnt cheap either, Ive got a BBK SSI intake coming, Im using a BBK throttle body, Lightning 90mm mass air with a C&L intake pipe, 30lb injectors, aeromotive fuel system with aeroquipt plumbing, and a custom superchip for my application. I built my own multiple relay harness. Ive got a couple grand into the EFI, not sure exactly.. It would probably sicken me to add it all up. It doesnt have to be expensive, I think if you shop carefully you could do it for under $1000 pretty easily, as long as its not a wild motor that youre installing it on.

rufusbooth · May 16, 2005

Well, I did mine the Junkyard route. I got a 5.0 Donor motor out of a 1988 Lincoln LSC. This is the same HO motor that is in the 88 – 93 mustangs sans mass air. The complete setup came with the following.

Engine complete, oil pan to intake.
Full front dress to flywheel.

Full wiring harness (not used as I wired my own, I did use the sensor connectors for my harness)
Computer (not used as I built my own using Megasquirt)
Fuel pump and fuel lines feed and return.
Exhaust manifolds including O2 sensors.

Full setup cost $139.00 on half price day. Could have brought that down to about $105 with Cores.

In addition to this I purchased 8 30 Lb/hr injectors from various 6 Cyl turbo Fords for about $30

Wiring for harness was about $60 as the wires are fully labeled like the painless kits. This is where I splurged.

The MegsSquirt cost me $180.00 complete (assembly required and totally worth it.)

This gives me a system that cost me about $400 dollars and affords me the ability to start with a bone stock motor and go all the way to a full Race motor if I feel like it without the need to pay somebody to make me a new chip. I can fully program the system using my laptop. There is no restriction of a mass air meter and if I want to add some computer code to make the system control something new I can add it myself as the system is completely open source.

You can definitely do it on the cheep!

Cheers,

Rufus

68rustang · May 16, 2005

67staaang said:
hey how much did you guys get your upper and lower EFI intake for? including injectors, throttle body, fuel rail and regulator ?

I picked up a new take off explorer upper for $30 including the tbody and elbow, and a new gt40 lower off ebay for $90. The rest was a complete 93 tbird motor (with the exception on sensor locations it is essentially the same as the 94-95 GT motor) that I bought from a salvage yard for $400.00 with supposedly 26-30k miles on it.

cobretti · May 18, 2005

Has anyone ever welded in a sump to the fuel tank? Would this solve the Fuel feed problem?

blk 02 · Jun 10, 2005

rufusbooth - what exactly did you do for the fuel set up? I’m doing this exact swap mega squirt and all.

Just an FYI I just picked up a complete setup with upper, lower, fuel injectors, fuel rail, wiring harness, tfi distributor, and late model valve covers off of ebay for 36.00 shipped. I saw a couple go for this cheap.

Graham

TT670 · Jun 11, 2005

Im curious, why bother with something like mega squirt unless youve got a wild motor? The Ford EEC works fantastic, It was a trouble free bolt on and go setup for me on a pretty hard running alum head 331. No dicking with fuel and timing maps.. just install and drive.

blk 02 · Jun 11, 2005

TT670 said:
Im curious, why bother with something like mega squirt unless youve got a wild motor? The Ford EEC works fantastic, It was a trouble free bolt on and go setup for me on a pretty hard running alum head 331. No dicking with fuel and timing maps.. just install and drive.

Well this was my take, I love to build stuff like this however it’s totally flexible in what ever you do whether it is a stocker or a wild motor. The EEC4 doesn’t do things like shift light, nitrous control, water injection and boost control among other things. You need a scan tool to diagnose trouble codes. The a9l is about 100 dollars anyway and requires a MAF which is almost the same cost. There are fewer wires under the hood. Also I kind of prefer to learn how to use mega squirt effectively before I use it on a 6000 motor. These are just my reasons, Honestly I'm swapping to fuel injection on my mustang just to be able to mega squirt something lol.

mustangracer · Jun 11, 2005

rufusbooth said:
......

In addition to this I purchased 8 30 Lb/hr injectors from various 6 Cyl turbo Fords for about $30

......

Cheers,

Rufus

More info on this please. I assume they where the 2.3 turbos? And is the color coding the same, I know grey is the bottom (16lb?), and orange is 19lb, red is 24lb, but 30lb?...I don't recall. I suppose then any MAF with the 30lb cal will be needed.

Very good info..

I paid 300 for air cleaner to lower intake, all sensors, late model pedal, complete (nose to tail) 89 harness, A9P, even the fuel tank & pump (pump turned out to be no good though) All stock parts though, with my heads & cam I need the larger injectors and better intake.

I finally sorted the fuel delivery with the lp/hp pump setup and accumulator tank, wasted some time trying to get the in-tank pump to work, had too much trouble with sealing all the pass throughs in the sender, plus the pump was hosed.

Focker67 · Jun 12, 2005

I am putting my swap list together as we speak. Since I have the Gt40 iron cylinder heads with a GT cam and 1.7 rockers....Should I try to acquire an Explorer intake or will a 89-93 intake work fine?

Focker67 · Jun 12, 2005

If anybody has anything used laying around PM me. I am looking for a cheap route to go.

BTW I have some 25k mile stock 95 GT heads boxed up in my garage if anyone needs them.

TT670 · Jun 12, 2005

mustangracer said:
More info on this please. I assume they where the 2.3 turbos? And is the color coding the same, I know grey is the bottom (16lb?), and orange is 19lb, red is 24lb, but 30lb?...I don't recall. I suppose then any MAF with the 30lb cal will be needed.

Very good info..

I paid 300 for air cleaner to lower intake, all sensors, late model pedal, complete (nose to tail) 89 harness, A9P, even the fuel tank & pump (pump turned out to be no good though) All stock parts though, with my heads & cam I need the larger injectors and better intake.

I finally sorted the fuel delivery with the lp/hp pump setup and accumulator tank, wasted some time trying to get the in-tank pump to work, had too much trouble with sealing all the pass throughs in the sender, plus the pump was hosed.

Blue is 24 lb injectors.. what kind of motor are you running it on? Ill bet my 331 is over 400HP at the flywheel and is perfectly happy with 24 lbs.. I dont run any LP/HP pump setup or an accumulator, just an external 155lph pump in an oem ford mount, never a hiccup from it. Heres a pic

mustangracer · Jun 12, 2005

Flow Rate lb/hr = (HP*BSFC)/(Number of Injectors*Max on time)

BSFC = .45-.55 unless you have specific numbers from a dyno
Max on time = .8 unless you enjoy overdriving the injector coils.

For TT670's 400 est hp = 400*.5/(8*.8) = 31.25lb/hr (running the injectors at 100% works out to 24lb)

So as long as you aren't running around at WOT all the time it'll probably be ok. Seems most mfg spec a max of 80% on time, 19lb injectors are just about perfect for 200-210 hp. I'm running probably 270 or so, and at specs out to 21 lb, so next size up would be 24, I was just looking for a cheap source, even if it meant 30lb..

TT670 · Jun 12, 2005

mustangracer said:
Flow Rate lb/hr = (HP*BSFC)/(Number of Injectors*Max on time)

BSFC = .45-.55 unless you have specific numbers from a dyno
Max on time = .8 unless you enjoy overdriving the injector coils.

For TT670's 400 est hp = 400*.5/(8*.8) = 31.25lb/hr (running the injectors at 100% works out to 24lb)

So as long as you aren't running around at WOT all the time it'll probably be ok. Seems most mfg spec a max of 80% on time, 19lb injectors are just about perfect for 200-210 hp. I'm running probably 270 or so, and at specs out to 21 lb, so next size up would be 24, I was just looking for a cheap source, even if it meant 30lb..

I used some formulas a couple yrs ago to calculate injector size and ended up scrapping it and following the advice of a dyno operator aquaintance. If you went strictly on theory using those formulas I think we'd find theres a large number people out there having lots of success running undersized injectors. In fact my car ran great on 19lb injectors. I guess it all boils down to application, on a street driven car its not very often that the engine runs hard enough, long enough to really see the shortcomings of an undersized injector. If I were racing my car Im certain Id need larger injectors, but then if I were racing it id need a bunch of other changes too.

mustangracer · Jun 13, 2005

Apparently you must have a different calculator than me, I got 16lb using 210 hp .5 BSFC, and 80% on time, the 225hp 5.0 works out to 17lb, so round up to the next standard size is 19lb

EFI conversion help!!!

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