EFI conversion help!!!
- Thread starter 67staaang
- Start date
Theres nothing wrong with longtubes on an EFI car, Im using them and they work great, I located both Hegos as far fwd in the collector as I could get them. Aftermarket mass air meters are the BIGGEST cause of driveability issues.
A baffled tank is a tank that has had baffles installed inside, this reduces fuel sloshing to prevent uncovering the fuel pickup and allowing the fuel pump to suck air.
A baffled tank is a tank that has had baffles installed inside, this reduces fuel sloshing to prevent uncovering the fuel pickup and allowing the fuel pump to suck air.
In my case, I went to some expense. 70 mm Accufab throttle body, 70 mm Pro-M Mass Air meter (Best Products is now out of business) calibrated for 24 lb. injectors, a set of 24 lb. injectors, and a ported '93 Cobra upper and lower intake (Ebay), and a K&N Filter means I probably have at least $1000 in the induction. I used the stock fuel rails from the '93 Mustang 5.0 H.O. donor.
Mine wasnt cheap either, Ive got a BBK SSI intake coming, Im using a BBK throttle body, Lightning 90mm mass air with a C&L intake pipe, 30lb injectors, aeromotive fuel system with aeroquipt plumbing, and a custom superchip for my application. I built my own multiple relay harness. Ive got a couple grand into the EFI, not sure exactly.. It would probably sicken me to add it all up. It doesnt have to be expensive, I think if you shop carefully you could do it for under $1000 pretty easily, as long as its not a wild motor that youre installing it on.
Well, I did mine the Junkyard route. I got a 5.0 Donor motor out of a 1988 Lincoln LSC. This is the same HO motor that is in the 88 – 93 mustangs sans mass air. The complete setup came with the following.
Engine complete, oil pan to intake.
Full front dress to flywheel.
Full wiring harness (not used as I wired my own, I did use the sensor connectors for my harness)
Computer (not used as I built my own using Megasquirt)
Fuel pump and fuel lines feed and return.
Exhaust manifolds including O2 sensors.
Full setup cost $139.00 on half price day. Could have brought that down to about $105 with Cores.
In addition to this I purchased 8 30 Lb/hr injectors from various 6 Cyl turbo Fords for about $30
Wiring for harness was about $60 as the wires are fully labeled like the painless kits. This is where I splurged.
The MegsSquirt cost me $180.00 complete (assembly required and totally worth it.)
This gives me a system that cost me about $400 dollars and affords me the ability to start with a bone stock motor and go all the way to a full Race motor if I feel like it without the need to pay somebody to make me a new chip. I can fully program the system using my laptop. There is no restriction of a mass air meter and if I want to add some computer code to make the system control something new I can add it myself as the system is completely open source.
You can definitely do it on the cheep!
Cheers,
Rufus
Engine complete, oil pan to intake.
Full front dress to flywheel.
Full wiring harness (not used as I wired my own, I did use the sensor connectors for my harness)
Computer (not used as I built my own using Megasquirt)
Fuel pump and fuel lines feed and return.
Exhaust manifolds including O2 sensors.
Full setup cost $139.00 on half price day. Could have brought that down to about $105 with Cores.
In addition to this I purchased 8 30 Lb/hr injectors from various 6 Cyl turbo Fords for about $30
Wiring for harness was about $60 as the wires are fully labeled like the painless kits. This is where I splurged.
The MegsSquirt cost me $180.00 complete (assembly required and totally worth it.)
This gives me a system that cost me about $400 dollars and affords me the ability to start with a bone stock motor and go all the way to a full Race motor if I feel like it without the need to pay somebody to make me a new chip. I can fully program the system using my laptop. There is no restriction of a mass air meter and if I want to add some computer code to make the system control something new I can add it myself as the system is completely open source.
You can definitely do it on the cheep!
Cheers,
Rufus
68rustang
Active Member
67staaang said:
I picked up a new take off explorer upper for $30 including the tbody and elbow, and a new gt40 lower off ebay for $90. The rest was a complete 93 tbird motor (with the exception on sensor locations it is essentially the same as the 94-95 GT motor) that I bought from a salvage yard for $400.00 with supposedly 26-30k miles on it.
rufusbooth - what exactly did you do for the fuel set up? I’m doing this exact swap mega squirt and all.
Just an FYI I just picked up a complete setup with upper, lower, fuel injectors, fuel rail, wiring harness, tfi distributor, and late model valve covers off of ebay for 36.00 shipped. I saw a couple go for this cheap.
Graham
Just an FYI I just picked up a complete setup with upper, lower, fuel injectors, fuel rail, wiring harness, tfi distributor, and late model valve covers off of ebay for 36.00 shipped. I saw a couple go for this cheap.
Graham
TT670 said:
Well this was my take, I love to build stuff like this however it’s totally flexible in what ever you do whether it is a stocker or a wild motor. The EEC4 doesn’t do things like shift light, nitrous control, water injection and boost control among other things. You need a scan tool to diagnose trouble codes. The a9l is about 100 dollars anyway and requires a MAF which is almost the same cost. There are fewer wires under the hood. Also I kind of prefer to learn how to use mega squirt effectively before I use it on a 6000 motor. These are just my reasons, Honestly I'm swapping to fuel injection on my mustang just to be able to mega squirt something lol.
rufusbooth said:
More info on this please. I assume they where the 2.3 turbos? And is the color coding the same, I know grey is the bottom (16lb?), and orange is 19lb, red is 24lb, but 30lb?...I don't recall. I suppose then any MAF with the 30lb cal will be needed.
Very good info..
I paid 300 for air cleaner to lower intake, all sensors, late model pedal, complete (nose to tail) 89 harness, A9P, even the fuel tank & pump (pump turned out to be no good though) All stock parts though, with my heads & cam I need the larger injectors and better intake.
I finally sorted the fuel delivery with the lp/hp pump setup and accumulator tank, wasted some time trying to get the in-tank pump to work, had too much trouble with sealing all the pass throughs in the sender, plus the pump was hosed.
Focker67
New Member
I am putting my swap list together as we speak. Since I have the Gt40 iron cylinder heads with a GT cam and 1.7 rockers....Should I try to acquire an Explorer intake or will a 89-93 intake work fine?
Focker67
New Member
If anybody has anything used laying around PM me. I am looking for a cheap route to go.
BTW I have some 25k mile stock 95 GT heads boxed up in my garage if anyone needs them.
BTW I have some 25k mile stock 95 GT heads boxed up in my garage if anyone needs them.
Blue is 24 lb injectors.. what kind of motor are you running it on? Ill bet my 331 is over 400HP at the flywheel and is perfectly happy with 24 lbs.. I dont run any LP/HP pump setup or an accumulator, just an external 155lph pump in an oem ford mount, never a hiccup from it. Heres a picmustangracer said:
Attachments
Flow Rate lb/hr = (HP*BSFC)/(Number of Injectors*Max on time)
BSFC = .45-.55 unless you have specific numbers from a dyno
Max on time = .8 unless you enjoy overdriving the injector coils.
For TT670's 400 est hp = 400*.5/(8*.8) = 31.25lb/hr (running the injectors at 100% works out to 24lb)
So as long as you aren't running around at WOT all the time it'll probably be ok. Seems most mfg spec a max of 80% on time, 19lb injectors are just about perfect for 200-210 hp. I'm running probably 270 or so, and at specs out to 21 lb, so next size up would be 24, I was just looking for a cheap source, even if it meant 30lb..
BSFC = .45-.55 unless you have specific numbers from a dyno
Max on time = .8 unless you enjoy overdriving the injector coils.
For TT670's 400 est hp = 400*.5/(8*.8) = 31.25lb/hr (running the injectors at 100% works out to 24lb)
So as long as you aren't running around at WOT all the time it'll probably be ok. Seems most mfg spec a max of 80% on time, 19lb injectors are just about perfect for 200-210 hp. I'm running probably 270 or so, and at specs out to 21 lb, so next size up would be 24, I was just looking for a cheap source, even if it meant 30lb..
mustangracer said:
I used some formulas a couple yrs ago to calculate injector size and ended up scrapping it and following the advice of a dyno operator aquaintance. If you went strictly on theory using those formulas I think we'd find theres a large number people out there having lots of success running undersized injectors. In fact my car ran great on 19lb injectors. I guess it all boils down to application, on a street driven car its not very often that the engine runs hard enough, long enough to really see the shortcomings of an undersized injector. If I were racing my car Im certain Id need larger injectors, but then if I were racing it id need a bunch of other changes too.
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