EFI conversion?

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its going to be very involved. more than just a fuel pump. our cars are a returned fuel style system and i would not advise running a piece of rubber fuel line back to the tank. if you are going to do it do it right and have a new set of suply lines and retuen lines bent for it. and you where pretty much dead on, on everything else.

and alls you should need is the main engine harness and the computer. just pull it all from a donor car. if you try to piece it together its gonna get way to confusing.

I would suggest getting a truck or van harness as you'll probably be able to get one easier/cheaper. It also offers convenient through fire-wall mounting where the plug part of the ECU actually sticks into the engine bay allowing for sort of a quick disconnect for motor removal. Not sure what the truck weighs, but if you want to stay truck, you could go with a stock truck intake or look at the Edelbrock truck intake.

And if all else fails, get a Painless brand Ford EFI harness.

If I remember correctly you really only need a couple of wires in the harness to fire an efi. you need power to the ecc relay, start and run wires, good grounds for various places, wiring of the fuel pump, a blue wire to the solenoid ect. I wired my O2 sensors via a relay, and a few others. Get a complete engine harness with computer and study these diagrams. Check a couple of the other forums. theres a couple of good write ups out there, but I don't where.

I did mine with a couple of these diagrams.

http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/19/59/5a/0900823d8019595a/repairInfoPages.htm

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/

For an EFI conversion harness see http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=21 they have everything you need.
Or see http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/category.asp?catID=76&catdesc=Wiring.

TrickFlow'd said:

So what actually supplies power to the ECU? As far as fuel lines, I'm sure we could handle running braided lines or somethin.

So find a van or truck with a 5.0L? What trucks came with that motor?

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As tbovee said, there's only a few wires that need to be run out from the harness. They generally pick up power at a main fuse/relay box in the engine bay. Again, as he said, you need good grounds to the block and chasis. If you find a good harness or donor car, you should be able to find the grounds and note their locations. Most people run extra grounds just for good measure.

Fuel lines - you could either go braided or even get standard brake/fuel line for the cheap route. You could also run the aluminum stuff too. Get yourself a Jegs and Summit Racing. They have various options for plumbing.

I would look for an 87+ truck or van. If you could find an Explorer, that would be even better as you could get the intake and heads or even the whole motor if you want. It would be a good platform to start with if you can get it cheap enough. I got a whole motor with harness for $260, but I've read that most people end up paying around $600 for a good Explorer motor.

The early trucks/vans are going to be speed density which can give you a cleaner install, but is not as good if you add cam, intake, etc. The later ones 91?+ have MAF and would be a better option.

As far as dash stuff, there are a few sensors that tie into the dash, but not enought to worry about. I usually just cut all of the pigtails for the stuff I can't unplug or pull out easily, which is usually just the few that go into the dash. Some of the trucks/vans have the headlight harness integrated into the engine harness, which is a PITA. Anyways, just cut all the pigtails for the dash harness and you may or may not use them later. You could always run other gauges or sensors for temp, oil, tach, volt, etc.

You can a complete harness from Painless Wiring for a 5.0L fuel injected engine. It includes all new connectors and wiring but is somewhat expensive. I think I paid around $400 for mine. I had a donor harness from another Mustang but it had been cut up and needed a lot of work. It started giving me intermittent problems. So the cost of the Painless wiring was well worth it for me. As far as the ECM, you'll probably want to get an A9L or A9P module. You could then get a Tweecer to disable the emissions equipment and to tune the engine how you want. Its more expensive but you could get a whole stand alone Engine Management System like F.A.S.T. It all depends on how much you want to spend and how much you want to control the engine. Good Luck!

You can't buy it directly from the website anymore, but I think it has links for authorized resellers. Here

You want to make sure you get the Tweecer RT that way you can log data as well. It makes it much easier to tune.