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EFI help needed - coolant lines

  • Thread starter Thread starter stangman16
  • Start date Start date May 7, 2006

stangman16

Active Member
Nov 16, 2004
640
4
29
San Antonio, TX
May 7, 2006
#1
  • May 7, 2006
  • #1
Hey! I'm curious to how you guys that did the EFI conversion have run the coolant lines that go to the heater core? Got any close up photo's of that area?

I can't figure out if I need to run the lines how they were before or if they need to connect to the rail that mounts by the thermostat housing on the lower intake. Please check out this other thread:

http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?p=6128768&posted=1#post6128768

here's the thread I started in 5.0 Tech, I'm trying to get this pony on the road within the next month or so. Any help would be great!
 
M

mustangracer

Founding Member
Jun 15, 1999
360
0
0
Southern California
May 7, 2006
#2
  • May 7, 2006
  • #2
I used a 5/8 to 3/4 adapter fitting on the lower heater core fitting to match it to the 3/4 end of the heater pipes on the EFI setup. I did have to remove the heater assy and mount it as close as possible to the heater core, which means it is mostly on the interior side of the firewall. It would make life a lot easier to find a molded hose to fit the location, since it is a really short run and difficult to get the 3/4 hose on.
 
J

jmenke

Founding Member
Nov 8, 1999
211
0
16
Melbourne, FL
May 8, 2006
#3
  • May 8, 2006
  • #3
I used to have the heater lines running directly to the 5.0L steel lines on my '66. The rubber hose was a pain to get on because of how close to the firewall they were, and the fact that one of the steel hoses is larger in diameter.
After about 6 years in this configuration, I ended up blowing the heater core (guess I revved it to high too many times) and spilling that foul smelling green liquid on my carpet.
When I changed the core, I cut the two steel lines shorter, past the original location of the bracket that mounts to the intake manifold. I welded the bracket back on in a new location. This lets me use longer rubber hoses, and still retain the water temp sensor and EGR cooling line.
 

68rustang

Active Member
Jan 17, 2003
1,537
0
36
Cleveland, OH
May 8, 2006
#4
  • May 8, 2006
  • #4
I welded up the holes and don't have a heater for the time being.
 

red65

Member
Apr 12, 2003
411
0
17
Ann Arbor, MI
May 8, 2006
#5
  • May 8, 2006
  • #5
jmenke said:
I used to have the heater lines running directly to the 5.0L steel lines on my '66. The rubber hose was a pain to get on because of how close to the firewall they were, and the fact that one of the steel hoses is larger in diameter.
Click to expand...

fwiw - I did the same thing. You just have to wiggle the 5/8" hose over the larger fitting, which is a minor pain the rear, but it seems to work fine. I know that Windsor-Fox (a company that's since deceased, I think) used to recommend cutting the steel pipes short, like what jmenke described.
 

stangman16

Active Member
Nov 16, 2004
640
4
29
San Antonio, TX
May 9, 2006
#6
  • May 9, 2006
  • #6
if I just bypass the heater core for now, do I connect the two ends on the steel pipes together? How would you do that with them being different sizes?


where do you find one of those adapters at? (is it a metal piece?)
 
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