egr bung cap 5/8" - what thread pitch?

BlackVert

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Apr 23, 2006

#1

• Apr 23, 2006

• #1

i just got a brass 5/8" cap for my egr bung on the header, and the cap fits, but it only turns about 1/2 turn or so which makes me think the threads are not the same. i am afraid to turn it any more because i don't want to strip it in case i need to put it back together when it is time to get the emissions checked.

anyone know what the thread pitch is?

 

mootang

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Dec 5, 2004

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Apr 23, 2006

#2

• Apr 23, 2006

• #2

Idk but you can check out this site. scroll down and you'll see the caps they have, kind of expensive though

http://www.wazeepulleys.com/9495parts/9495parts.htm

 

W

wytstang

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Apr 23, 2006

#3

• Apr 23, 2006

• #3

This should answer your question why it barely turns
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=578274&highlight=EGR*+cap

 

BlackVert

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Apr 23, 2006

#4

• Apr 23, 2006

• #4

ok i read the thread, thanks. is it true that since the header is steel and the cap is brass, the threads on the header won't get mangled if you just crank the s**t out of it to force the cap on real tight?

like others, i don't want to f**k up my header threads in case i need to reinstall the egr to pass emissions, bit i also don't want to spend $20 for a damn plug.

when did they start making pennies with lead? i have a jar of pennies, maybe i can find some from when they were still solid copper

 

BlackVert

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Apr 24, 2006

#5

• Apr 24, 2006

• #5

ttt

 

94-302-vert

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Apr 24, 2006

#6

• Apr 24, 2006

• #6

I put some copper RTV in mine and put it on pretty darn tight. No leaks yet (almost a year and 10k miles).

I am also in the same boat as you where I may need to put it back on for emissions.. Or at least make it look like it works for emissions as it wasn't working last time and I still passed...

 

BlackVert

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#7

• Apr 24, 2006

• #7

94-302-vert said:

I put some copper RTV in mine and put it on pretty darn tight. No leaks yet (almost a year and 10k miles).

I am also in the same boat as you where I may need to put it back on for emissions.. Or at least make it look like it works for emissions as it wasn't working last time and I still passed...

Click to expand...

So you have a regular copper cap from the hardware store and just cranked it down? Do you know for sure if the threads on your header are ok (or if they are stripped)?

At this point all I want to know is if the threads on the header will still be OK. In other words, since the cap is copper and the header is steel, can I crank the cap pretty much as hard as I want without worrying about stripping the threads on the header, because the copper threads will give way before the steel threads will?

 

94-302-vert

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Apr 24, 2006

#8

• Apr 24, 2006

• #8

Crank away. I haven't checked my header out yet but I have broken many brass nuts on steel threads...

 

BlackVert

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Apr 24, 2006

#9

• Apr 24, 2006

• #9

94-302-vert said:

Crank away. I haven't checked my header out yet but I have broken many brass nuts on steel threads...

Click to expand...

will do, thanks

:SNSign:

 

Koniz

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Apr 3, 2005

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Apr 24, 2006

#10

• Apr 24, 2006

• #10

mootang said:

Idk but you can check out this site. scroll down and you'll see the caps they have, kind of expensive though

http://www.wazeepulleys.com/9495parts/9495parts.htm

Click to expand...

i would also like to add that the threads on the bung are metric threads, also the wazee's bung is worth the money

 

gmkillr

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Apr 24, 2006

#11

• Apr 24, 2006

• #11

You will not strip the threads on the header, the worst case is the cap will strip.

 

BlackVert

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Apr 24, 2006

#12

• Apr 24, 2006

• #12

perfect. i'll get some copper rtv and crank on it tomorrow.