EGR help

do you have to pass emissions?
If not pull it out and find a bolt with the same thread size.
I have also seen people(I dont recommend this) JB weld a quarter to the back of the thread and vica versa the header as well.

I just welded the hole shut on the fitting where the lines come in, then theaded that piece into the back of the head.

Stykthyn's idea is a cleaner fix though!

#1 This should be in tech not talk.

#2 That is not part of the EGR system. It is a AIR pipe that feeds fresh air to the exhaust ports via the cylinder heads, it is part of the Thermactor Emissions System.

jtfairlane said:

#1 This should be in tech not talk.

#2 That is not part of the EGR system. It is a AIR pipe that feeds fresh air to the exhaust ports via the cylinder heads, it is part of the Thermactor Emissions System.

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I was going to mention this......

ryan218 said:

dose this need done to both heads?

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There is a thermactor air passage in the rear of both heads. If you block off only one than you will have a leak in the other. So, yes, block off both if you are removing the thermactor air injection pipe.

you can plug the holes with a broken off spark plug, or go buy a 5/8 bolt, 11 tpi, about 1 inch long. another option is to cut the pipe off at the blocks that bolt to the head, swap the blocks from one head to the other side, and bolt them back on so they now plug the hole also. ( i think. or else you spin them 180*, and bolt them back on. i cant remember)

ryan218 said:

k i take it you hace done this to your mustang too?

if so what did some of you guys use to plug the back of the heads? ive heard of people using spark plugs and what not?

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No, I have not done it to my mustang, all of my Thermactor air injection pieces are hooked up.

Most Ford dealerships will also still sell the inserts for the thermactor holes in the heads. The front of the heads also have the thermactor passage holes, but they have a threaded insert that blocks it in the front to allow you to mount accessories to the front of your heads. You could just buy two more, and use them to block the passages in the rear of the heads.

ryan218 said:

ok well its not coming from the back of the head...wtf...could i hace a crakced header or something?

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well thats always a possibility. spring for a set of decent shorties. with the problems you have been listing about your current headers a new set definitely couldnt hurt.

Some review of how it works...

The Thermactor air pump (smog pump) supplies air to the heads or catalytic converters. This air helps break down the excess HC (hydrocarbons) and CO (carbon monoxide). The air supplied to the catalytic converters helps create the catalytic reaction that changes the HC & CO into CO2 and water vapor. Catalytic converters on 5.0 Mustangs are designed to use the extra air provided by the smog pump. Without the extra air, the catalytic converters will clog and fail.

The Thermactor air pump draws air from an inlet filter in the front of the pump. The smog pump puts air into the heads when the engine is cold and then into the catalytic converters when it is warm. The Thermactor control valves serve to direct the flow. The first valve, TAB (Thermactor Air Bypass) or AM1 valve) either dumps air to the atmosphere or passes it on to the second valve. The second valve, TAD (Thermactor Air Diverter valve or AM2 valve) directs it to the heads or the catalytic converters. Check valves located after the TAB & TAD solenoids prevent hot exhaust gases from damaging the control valves or pump in case of a backfire. The air serves to help consume any unburned hydrocarbons by supplying extra oxygen to the catalytic process. The computer tells the Thermactor Air System to open the dump valve at WOT (wide open throttle) minimizing engine drag. The dump valve reduces the parasitic drag caused by the smog pump to about 2-4 HP at WOT.






Computer operation & control for the Thermactor Air System
Automobile computers use current sink technology. They do not source power to any relay, solenoid or actuator like the IAC, fuel pump relay, or fuel injectors. Instead the computer provides a ground path for the positive battery voltage to get back to the battery negative terminal. That flow of power from positive to negative is what provides the energy to make the IAC, fuel pump relay, or fuel injectors work. No ground provided by the computer, then the actuators and relays don't operate.

One side of the any relay/actuator/solenoid in the engine compartment will be connected to a red wire that has 12-14 volts anytime the ignition switch is in the run position. The other side will have 12-14 volts when the relay/actuator/solenoid isn't turned on. Once the computer turns on the clamp side, the voltage on the computer side of the wire will drop down to 1 volt or less.

In order to test the TAD/TAB solenoids, you need to ground the white/red wire on the TAB solenoid or the light green/black wire on the TAD solenoid.

To test the computer, you can use a test light across the TAB or TAD wiring connectors and dump the codes. When you dump the codes, the computer does a self test that toggles every relay/actuator/solenoid on and off. When this happens, the test light will flicker.

Likely the headers.
I had macs that leaked from inside where the collector meets. There was no way to tell until i had them off the car and held them up in the light, yup i could see through them.

headers is an easy swap so maby just take yours off and look at them close...them toss them since they are already off and install some BBK 1515's they are cheap and fit like factory and look nicer than the rusty old ones. Jegs has the equal lenght BBK chrome ones on sale right now for 179 bucks...My unequal lenghts were that much