Electric Fan install?

[Aaron'S'tang]

I have a PowerDyne SC set up and want to install an electric fan. Will I need to get some different pullies or something? Diff belt lenght?

 

[gcwh02]

Nope, I doubt the MarkVIII fan will fit though with your S/C crank pulley. The markvIII is a thick fan, flows great. I'd go 3.8 taurus fan, flows just as good as the MarkVIII and is thinner. It will clear your pullies and if by a small chance it doesnt you can still do a little grinding on the plastic.

 

[jrichker]

Electric fan = 3G alternator if you want long life & reliability from your car.
The electric fan saves some HP. The stock fan's parasitic drag runs from 7-12 HP depending on who you talk to. The electric fan uses about 1/2 HP of power from the electrical system.

Figure this:
Ignition system & computer = 12 amps
Fuel pump = 12 amps
Exterior lights = 15 amps
Fan (heater or A/C) = 15 amps (can run between 5-25 amps depending on setting)
Radio & instruments = 10 amps
Wipers = 10 amps

That's grand total of 74 amps from a 65 amp alternator. Talk about overdrawn at the bank!

Here's websites with pictures of the 3G installation...

See http://www.geocities.com/smithmonte/Auto/3G_130A_Alternator_Upgrade.htm - all the tech data you could ever want to know
OR
http://www.mustangcentral.net/tech/alternator.html - excellent pictures of installation

Use these sites for information on the right way to do the wiring. Some people will tell you that you can skip the wiring upgrade, but it will catch up with you sooner or later. A fire in the wiring harness is ugly and expensive.

Under no circumstances connect the two 10 gauge black/white wires to the 3G alternator. If the fuse blows in the 4 gauge wire, the two 10 gauge wires will be overloaded to the point of catching fire and burning up the wiring harness.

The secondary power ground is between the back of the intake manifold and the driver's side firewall. It is often missing or loose. It supplies ground for the alternator, A/C compressor clutch and other electrical accessories such as the gauges. Any car that has a 3G alternator needs a 4 gauge ground wire running from the block to the chassis ground where the battery pigtail ground connects.
See WWW.partsexpress.com for the fuse & fuse holder.
Fuse @ $3.90 each (need one) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=071-952

Fuseholder @ $5.80 each (need one) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=263-630

4 gauge black wire @ $1.25 a foot (use string to lay out routing & determine length) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=100-196

4 gauge red wire @ $1.25 a foot (use string to lay out routing & determine length) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=100-194

4 gauge ring crimp terminals (package of 5) $3.25. http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=095-584

3/4 “ Black heat shrink tubing, 4ft length, $3.39
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshow...number=082-058

3/4 “ Red heat shrink tubing, 4ft length, $3.39
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshow...number=082-064

Pre-fab 4 gauge cables with lugs already on the ends are available in most auto parts stores. Look for the starter switch to starter cables.

You can use a DCControl ( www.dccontrol.com )fan controller and maybe get by without the alternator upgrade. However, the alternator upgrade is a really good idea, so I would do it anyway.

 

[Aaron'S'tang]

Electric fan = 3G alternator if you want long life & reliability from your car.
The electric fan saves some HP. The stock fan's parasitic drag runs from 7-12 HP depending on who you talk to. The electric fan uses about 1/2 HP of power from the electrical system.

Figure this:
Ignition system & computer = 12 amps
Fuel pump = 12 amps
Exterior lights = 15 amps
Fan (heater or A/C) = 15 amps (can run between 5-25 amps depending on setting)
Radio & instruments = 10 amps
Wipers = 10 amps

That's grand total of 74 amps from a 65 amp alternator. Talk about overdrawn at the bank!

Here's websites with pictures of the 3G installation...

See http://www.geocities.com/smithmonte/Auto/3G_130A_Alternator_Upgrade.htm - all the tech data you could ever want to know
OR
http://www.mustangcentral.net/tech/alternator.html - excellent pictures of installation

Use these sites for information on the right way to do the wiring. Some people will tell you that you can skip the wiring upgrade, but it will catch up with you sooner or later. A fire in the wiring harness is ugly and expensive.

Under no circumstances connect the two 10 gauge black/white wires to the 3G alternator. If the fuse blows in the 4 gauge wire, the two 10 gauge wires will be overloaded to the point of catching fire and burning up the wiring harness.

The secondary power ground is between the back of the intake manifold and the driver's side firewall. It is often missing or loose. It supplies ground for the alternator, A/C compressor clutch and other electrical accessories such as the gauges. Any car that has a 3G alternator needs a 4 gauge ground wire running from the block to the chassis ground where the battery pigtail ground connects.
See WWW.partsexpress.com for the fuse & fuse holder.
Fuse @ $3.90 each (need one) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=071-952

Fuseholder @ $5.80 each (need one) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=263-630

4 gauge black wire @ $1.25 a foot (use string to lay out routing & determine length) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=100-196

4 gauge red wire @ $1.25 a foot (use string to lay out routing & determine length) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=100-194

4 gauge ring crimp terminals (package of 5) $3.25. http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=095-584

3/4 “ Black heat shrink tubing, 4ft length, $3.39
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshow...number=082-058

3/4 “ Red heat shrink tubing, 4ft length, $3.39
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshow...number=082-064

Pre-fab 4 gauge cables with lugs already on the ends are available in most auto parts stores. Look for the starter switch to starter cables.

You can use a DCControl ( www.dccontrol.com )fan controller and maybe get by without the alternator upgrade. However, the alternator upgrade is a really good idea, so I would do it anyway.

So you are saying I should upgrade to a 3G while I'm at it huh? What's the install time on the fan and how much of a pain in the azz. I'm not all that much of a working on the car expert but I have plenty of people around who are.

 

[srothfuss]

It took me about 5 hours total to swap out the following

Stock Fan
Stock Alt
New Belts / Hoses

Replaced with

Mark VIII fan & DCC FK35
1995 Mustang 3G
All of the wiring / triming / brackets and searching for the proper tools in the basement.

That is about how long it took me (first time building a Mustang) so the time can vary from person to person. Most of my time was spent doing the triming to the e-fan and mounting up my controller in the engine bay. Everything else is pretty straight forward as far as needing mechanical ability. I did most of the work in the evenings and then on a Saturday morning. I love the results!

 

[Aaron'S'tang]

Nope, I doubt the MarkVIII fan will fit though with your S/C crank pulley. The markvIII is a thick fan, flows great. I'd go 3.8 taurus fan, flows just as good as the MarkVIII and is thinner. It will clear your pullies and if by a small chance it doesnt you can still do a little grinding on the plastic.

You talk of the Taurus fan, what about one that I might buy from Jegs or Summit or anywhere else? Any ideas on the best.

 

[stang8urimport]

The 3.8 Taurus fan is NOT thin. I have a Griffen Rad. and the fan ALMOST touches the water pump pulley and a/c compressor... Not thin at all lol