Electric Fan Install

You won't get a true reading in a T fitting. The sensor has to be in the stream.

Alternate placement for a temp gauge sender or temp switch/temp sensor for an electric fan.

This will allow you to keep the stock gauge for looks. Use the heater feed that comes off the intake manifold. Cut the rubber hose that connects the manifold water feed to the heater and splice in a tee adapter for the temp gauge sender. Be sure to use the same water feed line as the ECT sensor. That way you will get the most accurate temp readings.

Tee adapter info:
Make a pilgrimage to your local hardware or home supply center and get some copper pipe and a tee that fits the temp gauge sender. Solder two pieces of copper pipe onto a copper pipe tee with threads in the tee part. Find the correct brass fitting to match the temp sender threads to the tee fitting.



Keep in mind that the capillary tube on mechanical temp gauges cannot be cut, shorted severely kinked or damaged in any way. It is one piece from the gauge to the temp bulb that goes in the engine coolant.

You main challenge will be getting the wiring or capillary tube through the firewall. Do not use the steering column exit path for any wiring or gauge plumbing. Make sure you seal any hole you drill in the firewall with high temp red silicone sealer.

What they said! Just move that T to the heater core inlet and put your aux temp sensor in there.

You can also get a new water neck with an extra 3/8" npt port in it. I've heard mixed things on whether or not locating a temp sensor there yields an accurate reading. I'm sure someone will chime in.

1991notchbackLX said:

You can also get a new water neck with an extra 3/8" npt port in it. I've heard mixed things on whether or not locating a temp sensor there yields an accurate reading. I'm sure someone will chime in.

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It will be fine for a fan switch (NOT for a gauge).



And the probe needs to be suscepted to the flow of fluid, not be across the stream or an impediment to flow. Don't sweat probe's displacement into the cross-flow plane too much. You just don't want a deadhead (as you found out) because coolant stagnates in the alcove you created, nor do you want the probe to sit super-recessed into its leg of the Tee.

stangfanatic said:

Does the Tee need to be copper? Do you think I could use brass instead?
Also, the fan sensor I have does not have a very long nipple (maybe 1/8 to 1/4 inch). Im assuming I need to try and get that into the water stream.

Click to expand...

Copper or brass will be Ok. The best results will be if you get the sensor in the coolant flow.