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Electric fan questions

  • Thread starter Thread starter 6t7coop
  • Start date Start date Nov 24, 2007
6

6t7coop

New Member
May 29, 2007
6
0
0
Nov 24, 2007
#1
  • Nov 24, 2007
  • #1
Installed my elec fan last weekend out of a Lincoln, turned out pretty good I think. Hopefully this link works since I dont know how to post pics, fan pics are the first few in this album http://s180.photobucket.com/albums/x271/rondanmar k...

The shroud covers almost the entire radiator so on high speed it really cools down fast. Instead of cutting down the shroud to gain clearance for the water pump, I merely "re-clocked" the motor off of the original mounting posts and gained almost half an inch. Seemed easier than cutting up the shroud, and the edges of the shroud lined up almost perfectly with the edges of the radiator. question one:
I am currently using a starter solenoid as a relay, it works fine but seems to get pretty hot if left on for more than a few minutes. Am I asking for trouble?
Question two:
I have a thermostatic fan switch that closes at 200, opens at 185. I made a tee out of brass pipe coming off the intake manifold. Switch in one end, temp guage sender in other. Neither seemed to work at all in the tee. Do the probes have to be actually in the flow of water to get hot? Would the switch be better in the radiator drain petcock? Ok, thats three questions Sorry for the long post, hope the link works.
 
N

norcalsvt

Member
May 4, 2004
88
0
6
San Francisco,CA
Nov 24, 2007
#2
  • Nov 24, 2007
  • #2
6t7coop said:
Question two:
I have a thermostatic fan switch that closes at 200, opens at 185. I made a tee out of brass pipe coming off the intake manifold. Switch in one end, temp gauge sender in other. Neither seemed to work at all in the tee. Do the probes have to be actually in the flow of water to get hot? Would the switch be better in the radiator drain petcock? Ok, thats three questions Sorry for the long post, hope the link works.
Click to expand...

Why don't you buy one of the thermostat housings that have the threaded opening so you can't screw in the sensor? Thats what I did. Working out well so far. I see you have a similar response in the VMF. Probably the easiest thing to do.
 

rbohm

Founding Member
Apr 12, 2002
6,698
550
204
tucson,az
Nov 24, 2007
#3
  • Nov 24, 2007
  • #3
the problem with using the starter solenoid as a fan relay is that it isnt designed for continuous duty. it will overheat and melt down fairly soon. a better choice is using a high amp relay in the 80-100amp range. i would also wire the fan to run on low speed unless the a/c is on, then run it at high speed. also upgrade to a 130amp alternator if you havent already.

as for question two, i agree, there are tstat housings available with a threaded opening so you can run the fan sensor there, or use one of the other openings at the front of the intake in the crossover passage. the sensor has to be in the coolant flow to work properly.
 

Bullitt

Packin' Heat
Founding Member
Jan 13, 2000
2,743
0
47
Houston, TX
Nov 25, 2007
#4
  • Nov 25, 2007
  • #4
Fox body T-stat housings have the threaded adapter they're talking about, they will exit vertically however...

You might be able to get one otherwise that'll fit without a different radiator hose, but I know for sure the Fox housings have the threaded connection.
 
J

Jimmys66

Founding Member
Nov 28, 2001
419
0
0
Paw Paw MI
Nov 25, 2007
#5
  • Nov 25, 2007
  • #5
I plan on putting this sensor in my lower hose in the spring. I like the idea that it's fairly hidden.
http://www.alumrad.com/fans.htm

I run 2 fans now that require 2 radiator probes and 2 sep relays. What a bunch of garbage. I'll put this relay with a new spal relay that controls 2 fans.
 
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