The Taurus fan is a puller. I believe it is around the 3800cfm. It should be plenty to cool a modded 5.0. I would urge you to stay away from the black magic(or tragic as they are know) I cannot speak for the extreme but the regular one barely sufficient to cool a stock 5.0... without AC.
Kevin
yea u need 3300 cfm or up. there are a few fans on the market. around 300-350 dollars. i went to the dealership and tried to find what the taurus fans cfm did and they couldnt tell me so i didnt waste my time with them. good luck and do it right the first time!!!
If you don't have a high current alternator, you can forget about using an electric fan. The stock 65 amp alternator on 86-93 Model Mustangs isn't big enough to run the fan and the rest of the car
Switching a fan on and off manually is a bad idea. Too many guys have been distracted (hot girl kissing on their neck, too much to drink, dog tired and not thinking clearly) and cooked things because they forgot to flip the switch. An equal number have forgotten to turn the switch off for the same reasons and run down their battery.
The best fan controller available today is a DC Control unit. Welcome to Delta Current Control. Cost is about $110. Be prepared to wait 4 weeks or more to receive your controller once you have sent in your payment. The controllers are custom made in small lots and lead times can stretch out.
At the bottom are the Hayden or Imperial controllers available through Advance Discount Auto Parts and AutoZone. The non adjustable one is about $30 ( Hayden 226206) and the adjustable one is about $60 (Hayden 226204). I recommend you do a Google search on Hayden and the part number for more info.
Do not use a simple on/off switch without using a relay. The current load can burn up the typical cheap automotive switch very quickly. The fan draws 30+amps and you need to use #10 wire on the fan power and ground wiring.
If you are good with electrical stuff (90% of the people here aren't), build your own controller. The numbers on the diagram (#86, #87, etc) refer to the numbers on the bottom of a typical automotive relay.
This version of the fan controller will continue to run the fan after the ignition switch is turned off, just like most new cars.
Note that the thermostat switch in the diagram isn’t really suited for the job. You’ll have to do a Google search and find your own.
To allow the ignition switch to control the fan so that it does not run when the ignition is off, connect the relay contact #86 to the red/green wire on the ignition coil or to the red/yellow wire on the coolant level sensor.
If you are an experienced electronics tech or electrical engineer, email me and I will send you the prototype drawings of a fan controller that is probably as good as the DC Control unit. It is a build it, troubleshoot it yourself item. I will not build or troubleshoot units, so it is not suitable for anyone who isn't really good with electronics.
Alternate placement for a temp gauge sender or temp switch/temp sensor for an electric fan. Use the heater feed that comes off the intake manifold. Cut the rubber hose that connects the manifold water feed to the heater and splice in a tee adapter for the temp gauge sender. Be sure to use the same water feed line as the ECT sensor. That way you will get the most accurate temp readings.
Tee adapter info:
Make a pilgrimage to your local hardware or home supply center and get some copper pipe and a tee that fits the temp gauge sender. Solder two pieces of copper pipe onto a copper pipe tee with threads in the tee part. Find the correct brass fitting to match the temp sender threads to the tee fitting.
Should I go for a push in radiator probe or a thread in sensor? Is either one better than the other? I plan on upgrading the alternator before the fan.
Should I go for a push in radiator probe or a thread in sensor? Is either one better than the other? I plan on upgrading the alternator before the fan.