Electric fan wiring???

Do a search for "DCC controller" and "vw switch", and "taurus fan". You will find a TON of info.

When you do hook it up, which ever way you end up going with, hook it up to the LOW side. Everything I read says hook it up to the high speed side of the fan, but I disagree. I had it that way and the fan is simply too hard at startup for it to NOT burn itself up or burn something else up...plus it is overkill.

I switched mine to the low side, and in South Florida heat, it works just fine with a stock radiator.

The one modification I'd make to Chris's statement is that if you use a soft-start or PWM controller (like the Delta unit), wiring it up to the high side is the way to go (since there's a gradual start-up anyhow). This allows you to use the full potential of the fan.

Otherwise make sure you don't run too hot. When we get over about 105*F in the summer, I need all the fan I can get (low would not cut it).

If you don't have a high current alternator, you can forget about using the electric fan. The stock 65 amp alternator isn't big enough to run the fan and the rest of the car.

Switching a fan on and off manually is a bad idea. Too many guys have been distracted (hot girl kissing on their neck, too much to drink, dog tired and not thinking clearly) and cooked things because they forgot to flip the switch. An equal number have forgotten to turn the switch off for the same reasons and run down their battery.

The best fan controller available today is a DC Control unit. www.dccontrol.com. Cost is about $110. Be prepared to wait 4 weeks or more to receive your controller once you have sent in your payment. The controllers are custom made in small lots and lead times can stretch out.

Next best is a SPAL controller - $70-$90 See http://www.spalusa.com/fans/automated/accessories/fanpwm.html. Ebay will have the controllers for the $70: do a google search and see what you find.

At the bottom are the Hayden or Imperial controllers available through Advance Discount Auto Parts and AutoZone. The non adjustable one is about $30 ( Hayden 226206) and the adjustable one is about $60 (Hayden 226204). I recommend you do a Google search on Hayden and the part number for more info.

Do not use a simple on/off switch without using a relay. The current load can burn up the typical cheap automotive switch very quickly. The fan draws 30+amps and you need to use #10 wire on the fan power and ground wiring.

If you are an experienced electronics tech or electrical engineer, email me and I will send you the prototype drawings of a fan controller that is probably as good as the DC Control unit. It is a build it, troubleshoot it yourself item. I will not build or troubleshoot units, so it is not suitable for anyone who isn't really good with electronics.

Alternate placement for a temp gauge sender or temp switch/temp sensor for an electric fan. Use the heater feed that comes off the intake manifold. Cut the rubber hose that connects the manifold water feed to the heater and splice in a tee adapter for the temp gauge sender. Be sure to use the same water feed line as the ECT sensor. That way you will get the most accurate temp readings.

Tee adapter info:
Make a pilgrimage to your local hardware or home supply center and get some copper pipe and a tee that fits the temp gauge sender. Solder two pieces of copper pipe onto a copper pipe tee with threads in the tee part. Find the correct brass fitting to match the temp sender threads to the tee fitting.

I run my taurus fan off of a toggle switch. But my car is not a daily driver. And i still have my stock alternator with no problems. I've been running the car like this for 3 years now!

Shurb125: re-read my post You can use a SPAL or Hayden controller.

aod92: your time is coming. Here's why:

Figure this:
Ignition system & computer = 12 amps
Fuel pump = 12 amps
Exterior lights = 15 amps
Fan (heater or A/C) = 15 amps (can run between 5-25 amps depending on setting)
Radio & instruments = 10 amps
Wipers = 10 amps

That's grand total of 74 amps from a 65 amp alternator. Talk about overdrawn at the bank!

If you never drive anyplace but the racetrack, you may get by. Stop and go driving at night with the lights & heater on won't cut it.

jrichker said:

Shurb125: re-read my post You can use a SPAL or Hayden controller.

aod92: your time is coming. Here's why:

Figure this:
Ignition system & computer = 12 amps
Fuel pump = 12 amps
Exterior lights = 15 amps
Fan (heater or A/C) = 15 amps (can run between 5-25 amps depending on setting)
Radio & instruments = 10 amps
Wipers = 10 amps

That's grand total of 74 amps from a 65 amp alternator. Talk about overdrawn at the bank!

If you never drive anyplace but the racetrack, you may get by. Stop and go driving at night with the lights & heater on won't cut it.

Click to expand...

Thats probaly why my car is ok like this. I don't have wipers, a/c, heat, or a radio in my car.

I see DCC doesn't even show models on his website, just a contact email for members of a few forums.

I am ready to purchase one, does anyone know what model number they are running? I will be running a Taurus Fan, 3g alternator and want something that will turn a small light on (in the car dash area) to alert me when the fan is on.

Flavadave4 said:

I see DCC doesn't even show models on his website, just a contact email for members of a few forums.

I am ready to purchase one, does anyone know what model number they are running? I will be running a Taurus Fan, 3g alternator and want something that will turn a small light on (in the car dash area) to alert me when the fan is on.

Click to expand...

http://www.dccontrol.com/fancontrol.htm

Just have to know how to navigate.

Loco5.0 said:

http://www.dccontrol.com/fancontrol.htm

Just have to know how to navigate.

Click to expand...

Oh thanks

Link dead.

However, I would stick with a sensor that picks up actual coolant temp. I know that through fin sensors work fine...I just personally think that a sensor that actually picks up coolant temp is the way to go.

Do you just go to the site and order it cause i've emailed them and i haven't rec crap from them..DCC unit

Shurb125 said:

Ok, so I have continued to do a lot of searching and talked to a tech man at Summit Racing and he advised me to use this setup......http://store.summitracing.com/compare.asp?Ntt=prf-30103&N=700+0&Ntk=KeywordSearch
He also told me that I didn't need to upgrade the alt that I would be fine. Does this sound right. I really don't want to use a probe to push through the radiator fins nor do I want to run it with a toggle switch, I want it to turn of and on at a certain temp and go off at a certain temp I also want to install a LED light near the dimmer switch so I know when it's off and when it's on. Do you gentlemen think this set up will work??? Thanks again for all your help and insight!

Click to expand...

The typical electric fan pulls 30 amps running current and spikes 90 amps or more on startup. That is one reason why the DCControl is so popular. It helps reduce the starting current spike to a more reasonable limit of maybe 35-40 amps.

Go back and look at the current load chart I posted and you will see why a larger than stock alternator is needed. Turn everything on like in a bumper to bumper traffic jam at night, and when the fan comes on, it will overload the alternator and drain the battery.

You really need to upgrade the alternator, not sure what the guy at summit was selling you but the facts have been presented above. Not to mention the 3g has the internal fan which just gives it a cleaner look.

Not sure why you need an lcd to tell when it is on, you will hear it for sure.

Matt

Shurb125 said:

Didn't realize that, thanks for the heads up! Honestly do you guys think I should just wait until I get 90 posts on this forum to get a DC controler? would it be worth it?

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I'd get the Delta unit personally. Then again, I live in the desert and it's more important than in other locales.

Have you heard back from Brian or sent him a link to this thread? I don't think the rules are hard and fast but were rather implemented to keep trolls away. I think Brian has a disclaimer saying something to that effect, and he might not have an issue taking your order. It would certainly be worth a dialog with him.

FWIW, the FK-35 is what he will probably recommend. I recommend getting the status LED (it changes color depending upon how hard the fan is working), and possibly getting the rheostat (for changing your target temp from inside the car).
If you have a remote battery, let Brian know so you can get the appropriate filter.

Good luck.