Has anybody used the thermostat housing for your fan temp sensor. I have the DC Controlls controller and the sensor I have is parting ways with me. I was hoping to thread a bung into Tstat housing and go that route. Anybody do this?
Engine Fan temp sensor location.
- Thread starter 7-UP BILL
- Start date
I spoke with Brian last night. I previously had a stick on sensor from him because the regular wouldnt fit my radiator. I have a Griffin. He suggested welding a bung in the right tank. 3 radiator shops by me quoted prices between $200 and $400 to weld a bung. I told them to FO. Ive heard some people say theyve done it with success. Just not on a Foxbody.
Dunno man. I have a Griffin in the T-Bird and a Fluidyne in the Coupe with sensors in the fins at the exit.
I picked up one of these on eBay and mounted in the lower rad hose. You just cut it, put this in and thread in the sensor you like.
I picked up one of these on eBay and mounted in the lower rad hose. You just cut it, put this in and thread in the sensor you like.
I was thinking as I read through this thread: "Somebody has got to make a..."
And there it is.
10 years ago when I was building my car I made one out of a piece of pipe (drilled and added a bung and double clamped - this solution will work much better and easier). I have since accumulated a couple of these to use for future builds.
They come with a 1/8" NPT threaded hole (very common size for temp sensors) and a screw to attach a ground wire. For a stock foxbody lower hose you will want the 40mm size.
They come with a 1/8" NPT threaded hole (very common size for temp sensors) and a screw to attach a ground wire. For a stock foxbody lower hose you will want the 40mm size.
I did a long time ago. IIRC, that spot gets hot faster before the thermostat opened up. The stat I used had a bit of a sluggish delay. I ended up moving it
I can say this from experience with the Mark VIII fan in my Coupe. Putting the temperature switch in the thermostat neck that triggered a relay to turn the fan on and off did not work for me. Fan would kick on when the t-stat opened and then shut off shortly after it closed. Fluid in the radiator would not get completely cooled down so it struggled during the summer and I would use a toggle switch to over ride it to keep the engine cooled down.
Installed an actual fan controller and this solved the problem. I use a DCC controller and installed it as per the instructions and have had zero issues (other than the one temperature sensor failing albeit several years after the install) and the car was in Houston for a couple summers so that was a stress test.
What I’m getting at is check with the manufacturer before you haul off and start moving things around as I know Brian with DCC is pretty adamant on the temp sensor being very close to the outlets of the radiator.
Installed an actual fan controller and this solved the problem. I use a DCC controller and installed it as per the instructions and have had zero issues (other than the one temperature sensor failing albeit several years after the install) and the car was in Houston for a couple summers so that was a stress test.
What I’m getting at is check with the manufacturer before you haul off and start moving things around as I know Brian with DCC is pretty adamant on the temp sensor being very close to the outlets of the radiator.
Totally agree. By having the sensor at the outlet of the radiator or in lower rad hose (basically the same thing) you allow the cooling system to do its thing even before the fans come on. Once the t-stat opens the water pump will push coolant through the rad and it will get cooled to a point. Only then, when this inherent circulation and cooling can't keep up will the fans come on to cool the coolant, not because your engine is up to temperature (like they do when installing the sensor in the t-stat housing or heater hoses), but because the coolant needs it.
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