Electrical problems, smoke, car dead.

IndyBlk5.0

IndyBlk5.0

New Member
Nov 24, 2003
1,122
1
0
New Whiteland, IN
#1
Well gladly it was fine until i got home. Ive noticed for the past few days that my wires for my gauge cluster that plugs in underneigth my steering well have been very hot. I didnt know why. On the way home today, I smelled something burning and almost turned off, but i got it home. The second I turned off the car i heard a POOF and smoke came from the engine bay. It came from the coil area and that selinoid area. I still get the ding ding when I put the key in the car, but turning it to accessories doesnt work (dead), and turning it to on doesnt work and of course it doesnt even try to start wheen the key is turned. I can't roll up my windows. Would my altenator being wired to my silenoid be a problem? What went wrong? Why wires so hot under dash? Thanks... :( :shrug:
 
#2
could be many things. if you are good with wiring diagnostics, you need to get out there and check some things. burning near the solenoid is likely alt wiring or fusible links....thoroughly check it all out before playing with the car too much..good luck.
 
#6
HISSIN50 said:
you did the wiring upgrade for the alt, right?
alt should go to the solenoid (you are right).
Click to expand...
I did do the upgrade, i used 4 gauge wire for the main power wire straight to the selinoid. Worked for a week no problem. The electric fan is wired to the heater circuit in my fuse box, is that a problem? I'm still trying to figure out why my interior gauge wires were so hot?
 
#7
please elaborate. are you running all the power for your fan from your heater circuit????
if you are using the heater as a trigger for a relay for the fan, that is fine (relay will draw 150mA - 1 amp, depending upon type used. that is fine).

get that fan on a relay (if you are running it through a switch with no other distribution of power) if it is not. that could very well explain interior wiring problems.....

let us know - someone just posted a thread titled something like :the ultimate 3.8 fan install. this thread had a good pic of how to do the relay and wiring (i dont know how to do pics on a puter). or let us know, and we will help.

good luck.
 
#8
#9
That wiring diagram makes no sense to me. Wiring is a HUGE downfall for me. I replaced the starter solenoid and found a short (negitive wire for the fan, it fried its connection on the negitive post of the battery) Still dead after that. The fan is pulling all of its power off of the heater blower circuit. Im getting a relay but what size? I want to use the starter solenoid as the trigger and run it straight off the battery otherwise. Im lost. Honestly.
 
#10
"Wiring is a HUGE downfall for me. "

Given the subject of the thread, you've just qualified for the understatement of the year competition. :) Seriously, I suggest you hook up with a buddy who has a bit of a better grasp of the way the electrical systems need to work and have him help you through this one. Based on your honest (props to you for that) assessment of your skills in this area, you're gonna need some help to work through this one. Something either shorted out or you asked a circuit to carry too much current.

The problem is that all things electrical work on the principal of smoke transmission. The bigger the component (starter for example), the bigger the wire going to it because it takes more smoke to operate. The bigger wires carry more smoke. Now, if you screw up and let the smoke out, then things don't work any more cause the smoke is gone. So, you're gonna need to get the smoke back inside things, and then be sure that it doesn't leak out again. 'Cause if you let the smoke out.....
 
#12
Jason - like Bernie mentions - check any areas that you might have accidentally "let the smoke out of". I'd check the ignition switch circuit, the gauge circuits (since they were hot - wasn't that a clue?), your alternator wiring job, and the circuits associated with your fan install. If you were running all the current for your fan through the heater circuits, I'd bet that fried something.
 
#13
The ignition switch (on the column) is notorious for frying on 1981-1993 Fords. It's easy to access and replace, and there is a class action lawsuit that Ford lost related to this problem. They replaced the switch on my '93 LX and my '88 Bronco, no charge. With all of the recent changes to your electrical system it's not too far out of the question that you may have finally pushed it over the edge. They're not very expensive, either. It certainly would be worth an early look during your troubleshooting. With the interior wires that hot, it's completely plausible that the ignition switch fried. Also, if it fried, it may have caused your fusible links to cook, so check continuity up under the hood, too. I dealt with this problem on my '85 GT and my boss' '85 Crown Vic. The 12 dollar switch fixed it for both of them. Good luck.
 
#14
well i pulled the whole columb out of a 91 gt tonight with steering wheel and all that electrical crap, it was for free and came with key so i said what the hell. So i'll check my fuseable links and switch tomorrow.
Wiring is my weakest point. But, I do learn fast ;)
I've allready learned a lot in one day. We will find out tommorrow
 
#15
well found that my ignition switch on the columb was fried, 4 or 5 pins were melted and burnt. The plug in itself looks melted, but not burnt. What to do about that?
I just swapped steering wheels with my donor columb and it all looks good, i hope it works when i put it all back together tomorrow.
Where exactly are the fuseable links?
I really hope this doesnt turn into a pain in the butt.
 
#17
I agree never let the factory smoke out of your wiring. No but seriously, you need to find someone to help you on this one. I've been chasing a low charging problem for a while, kind of hit home when you brought up the accessory side of things. My radio light is dim and the chime when you leave the key in the ignition sounds very very low. Somedays the alt. charges where it needs to be and others it charges at the middle mark or a little lower. I've even had a one wire hook up alt. (140 amp) and it still charged the same way. Any help would be appreciated, love my stang but I hate the way Ford designed their electrical systems.
 
#18
5.0_Gil_89 said:
Somedays the alt. charges where it needs to be and others it charges at the middle mark or a little lower.
Click to expand...


Middle mark is 14 volts, and is plenty of voltage. You need 13.8 volts or better to charge the battery.
 
#20
Sorry, need to put in more information. It doesn't charge where it needs to. I just got back from a 12 day class, when I went to start the engine it drug like the battery was low. The battery is new, and sometimes with a gage hooked up it'll charge at 11v without the accessories on. I don't thinks it a draw, I think that I have a fuseable link going bad. When I had the one wire alt on it; the thing still charge intermitten. I'm thinking the problem is towards the firewall, may be the link that comes from the starter solenoid. Going to trace it out, any help will be greatly appreciated.
 
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