Emissions problems

amplifier28 said:

Hey "jrichker"

I saw under the hood behind the passenger wheel well.There was a small black container above two small containers. Do all three container come together?

Click to expand...

I can't quite picture what you are talking about. Let's try a vacuum diagram courtsey of Tmoss & Stang&2birds. Maybe you can use the diagram to answer your question.


See http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/ for more good stuff...

The air injection divertor valves may help SLIGHTLY, but mine have not worked for years, and that has not stopped me from passing CA smog. I have had codes 94 and 44 for many years now, and basically ignore them. But I pass smog fine with GT40 heads, E303 cam, an MSD6A and a BBK 2.5" cat h-pipe. Assuming it runs good, and you have cleaned out the idle air bypass and EGR valve as I said, the other tuneup stuff is OK and the O2 sensors are good, I would start thinking about a new h-pipe before spending much time screwing around with the air injector system. I'm not convinced it does a heck of a lot and all other things being equal, new cats make about the biggest difference.

I ran my 331 thru e-test and failed the first time. Did some tune up stuff and actually hooked up my smog pump again this time. Ran a heater hose to the air inlet on the factory h-pipe to make it functional. Now the two things I did that seemed to help the most are retard the timing. I just turned it down until the motor started bucking and went back till it stopped, probably running no more than 5 or 6 degrees. And turn down your fuel pressure, as low as you can to keep it running. Use 87 octane and get the car hot. Should pass if you are already close.

When I refered to the two small black containers I meant the two solenoids. Both the "Thermastor Air Diverter Solenoid" and "Thermactor Air Bypass Solenoid". Where is the "diverter valve" located? Can I buy the Thermastor Air diverter solenoid and diverter valve at an auto parts store such as autozone?

I really do recommend that you go back & read my post on how to troubleshoot the problem. The post that starts "A trip to the j/y gets you the solnoid valve you need." has the how to check the solenoid valve and the vacuum operated diverter valve.

That will save you time & money and get it fixed without hurting your wallet so much.

You have convinced me to go that route first!