Emissions woes continue, please help!!

kdog_x · Aug 2, 2004

Well, I switched my O/R pipe for a MAC catted pipe, and I hooked the Air tube back up so I wouldn't kill the cats. But it looks like that wasn't enough to get me through emissions. Last time I went I got 3.9 for hydrocarbons, 0.8 is the limit. And 15.3 for CO, 15.0 is the limit. This time the hydrocarbons got better and the CO got worse. I've only got one more try, what should I do to this thing???

The emmisions reports can be viewed at the links below

http://www.wideopenwest.com/~kevinrush1/report2.JPG
http://www.wideopenwest.com/~kevinrush1/report4.JPG

mustangsquared · Aug 2, 2004

Smog pump working? New O2 sensors, tune up, lower FP? just a few ideas. The experts here should be able to help better.

kdog_x · Aug 2, 2004

mustangsquared said:
Smog pump working? New O2 sensors, tune up, lower FP? just a few ideas. The experts here should be able to help better.

Smog pump works, O2 sensors are about 2 yrs old, Cap and rotor are clean looking although maybe I'll replace them anyway, plugs are less than a year old as well as wires. Can you lower FP without an adjustable regulator?

kdog_x · Aug 2, 2004

I just went out and ran the codes, this is what I ended up with.

KOEO - 11
KOER - 41
Cylinder Balance Test - 99

Im trying to find that website with all the code listings now, I figured I'd post in case some one has it handy.

mustangsquared · Aug 2, 2004

Negative on the lower FP...also check the TPS sensor..if set over 1.0v can lead to a rich condition. Is the EGR working? Did you plug the EGR coolant lines? If so unplug them.

kdog_x · Aug 2, 2004

mustangsquared said:
Negative on the lower FP...also check the TPS sensor..if set over 1.0v can lead to a rich condition. Is the EGR working? Did you plug the EGR coolant lines? If so unplug them.

TPS sensor is set at 0.96V. Never bypassed the EGR coolant lines, if it wasn't working I think I would have got a code - right? I see that code 41 is (Right heated Exhaust Gas o2 sensor indicates system lean).

2 questions, by right do they mean passenger side, and would this make my car run rich? After re-reading the instructions I see I should have warmed up the car before running the test (said somethin about a HEGO sensor), I'm gonna go try it again and see if I get the same results.

jrichker · Aug 2, 2004

Code 41 or 91 - O2 indicates system lean. Look for a vacuum leak or failing O2 sensor.
The computer sees a lean mixture signal coming from the O2 sensors and tries to compensate by adding more fuel.

Measuring the O2 sensor voltage at the computer will give you a good idea of how well they are working. The computer pins are 29 (LH O2 with a dark green/pink wire) and 43 (RH O2 with a dark blue/pink wire). Use the ground next to the computer to ground the voltmeter.
The O2 sensor ground is in the wiring harness for the fuel injection wiring. I grounded mine to one of the intake manifold bolts

"When the mixture is lean, the exhaust gas has oxygen, about the same amount as the ambient air. So the sensor will generate less than .4 volt. Remember lean = less voltage.

" When the mixture is rich, there's less oxygen in the exhaust than in the ambient air , so voltage is generated between the two sides of the tip. The voltage is greater than .6 volt. Remember rich = more voltage.

Here's a tip: the newer the sensor, the more the voltage changes, swinging from as low as 0.1 volt to as much as 0.9 volt. As an oxygen sensor ages, the voltage changes get smaller and slower - the voltage change lags behind the change in exhaust gas oxygen.

Because the oxygen sensor generates its own voltage, never apply voltage and never measure resistance of the sensor circuit. To measure voltage signals, use an analog voltmeter with a high input impedance, at least 10 megohms. Remember, a digital voltmeter will average a changing voltage."
Charles O. Probst, Ford fuel Injection & Electronic Engine control

5.0guy · Aug 2, 2004

http://www.corral.net/eec/

kdog_x · Aug 2, 2004

jrichker said:
Measuring the O2 sensor voltage at the computer will give you a good idea of how well they are working. The computer pins are 29 (LH O2 with a dark green/pink wire) and 43 (RH O2 with a dark blue/pink wire). Use the ground next to the computer to ground the voltmeter.

Del

kdog_x · Aug 2, 2004

Well I just checked the wires at the computer, both of them fluctuate alot. They both would start at about .2 or .3 and then would jump up to .7 or .8 then slowly drop a little and bounce back and forth between high and low. Is this what they're supposed to do?

kdog_x · Aug 2, 2004

Ok, I took all the plugs out and they had kind of a whiteish gray residue on them -- is that normal wear? I figured the best thing would be to go back to as close to stock parts as possible. So I threw on some 7mm wires, some motorcraft plugs, and a good cap and rotor (the one with the brass points on it). I'm gonna take it to carX tommorow and see what they say they can do, but I went to Midas today and they suggested I pull my exhaust off (LT's and all) and get the stocker 4 cat pipe back on. For a low one time fee of only $1000 of course. Ouch

Can anyone think of anything left I should do?

mustang88GT · Aug 2, 2004

when i failed i put my stock h back on... i dont think aftermarket x or h pipes with cats are not very effective hence the hp gain... i got a bassani X with 2 cats and i fail horribly but when i put the stocker back on passed easy... if u live near charlotte, NC u could borrow my stock h pipe

kdog_x · Aug 2, 2004

I wish I lived closer, I'm all the way up in Chicago. I'd have to go get some stock headers as well though, damn those smog cops

jrichker · Aug 3, 2004

kdog_x said:
Well I just checked the wires at the computer, both of them fluctuate alot. They both would start at about .2 or .3 and then would jump up to .7 or .8 then slowly drop a little and bounce back and forth between high and low. Is this what they're supposed to do?

Sounds like they are working just like they are supposed to do.

kdog_x · Aug 3, 2004

I noticed that they turn off all accessories during the test, if accessories throw off the test then wouldn't my electric fan do the same thing?

kdog_x · Aug 3, 2004

Also, what do you think of this

http://www.passsmog.com/

or this

http://xcelplus.com/performance_restoration_kit_gas.htm

jrichker · Aug 3, 2004

kdog_x said:
Also, what do you think of this

http://www.passsmog.com/

or this

http://xcelplus.com/performance_restoration_kit_gas.htm

http://www.passsmog.com seems to be the more interesting product. But then, I have no personal experience to back it up either.

kdog_x · Aug 3, 2004

I noticed I have a few broken vacuum lines, can anyone tell me if these are important and maybe where they go. One is in back of the smog pump on top of a round thing (valve maybe? sorry I cant be more descriptive). The other is on top of another valve at the intersection where it goes down to the cats or to the back of the heads.(see below). And there are two broken lines coming from the passenger side near the firewall (also see below). Any help would be appreciated.

http://www.wideopenwest.com/~kevinrush1/twotubes.jpg
http://www.wideopenwest.com/~kevinrush1/toptube.jpg

LAtely I've been starting the car and it will catch and then the RPMs will drop and it will die. Then I restart and everything is fine, it's done this like 3 times, could it be related?

shttygtstang · Aug 3, 2004

instead of spendin all this money have a shop rite it off .you bring your car to them they make a list(most of the time they realy dont do any thing)fix some stuff and sigh off saying they fixed your car and there no more they can do dmv will pass you your done

noslow5_0 · Aug 3, 2004

unless u capped off both ends there is ur code 41... vacuum leak!!

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