Engine and Tranny

[IICrazy]

I have no oil pressure at all and loud clanking sound so I am pulling the engine tonight, Can I pull the engine and Tranny together? I have a nice cherry picker and load leveler.

And at this point I'm gonna go and replace the tranny as well.

 

[LedZ 5.0]

I think the best way to remove the motor is with the trans attached. It should come out nice with the load leveler. I always bring the motor straight up first and than remove the motor mounts so they don't go crooked and rip while in the frame mounts.
Good luck with the motor.

 

[Mstng2]

Yes, It's best to do it that way and re-install that way. Make sure you drain the trans first or you get about 8 quarts of type F all over the floor when you tilt it to get it out. DOH!! (Automatics, or gear oil, standard shift)

 

[IICrazy]

Everything came out great and now I hust have to scrub and paint the engine, and put a new oil pump in it. and replace the clutch and tranny.

How much should I expect to pay for a rebuilt tranny?

 

[perce111]

In my end of the state of WA [Bellingham] a C4 from a good trans shop will run about $600.

Later

 

[Dano78]

On this end of the Evergreen State you can get a slightly better than stock rebuilt C4 for about $350-$400 Last one I had done for a 250 I6 ran me $350 w/converter and it was a carry out deal. Called around and there's a shop in the Salem, OR area that'll build a race prep C4 for about 7 bones and I think he'd ship it to my front door, no core. (was looking for one for my Fastack) I'm willing to bet he'll do street versions for quite a bit less. See if I can dig up his info if you're interested.

 

[IICrazy]

I need a 4 spd.

 

[perce111]

I would not replace the 4spd
If you can rebuild cheaply maybe then but if you are looking for a rebuilt I would make the jump to the 5 speed.
It will make your driving a nicer experience and the T5 may actually be cheaper, and you should be able to find good used pretty easily if you want to go that way.

Later

 

[Dano78]

OH! Well, hell rebuilt it yerself!

You ever see a company advertising a Mustang II RAD Rebuild kit for $46 or $48 on E-bay. I think it's Transmission Exchange Co or what ever. They are here in Portland, OR. If it's the same place, they use to be called All-Trans. Looks to be the same kit I used and with the synchros, I think I paid $89 for the last complete kit. (about 3 years ago) These kits work great! Here's the link to the most recent auction:
Trans Kit on E-bay

 

[IICrazy]

But with the T-5 I've heard you have to shorten the driveshaft and have a piece machined for the inside of the trans? is this all true?

 

[Blue Thunder]

How do the bearings look, since the motor was running with no oil pressure??

 

[IICrazy]

How do the bearings look, since the motor was running with no oil pressure??

bearubg were bad, one was spun. Bought a new crank and bearings. Piston walls are great though

 

[Blue Thunder]

bearubg were bad, one was spun. Bought a new crank and bearings. Piston walls are great though

Checked the cam bearings, too?

 

[IICrazy]

Checked the cam bearings, too?

I checked everything and it all checked out ok except crank and bearings. My timing chain was also a little sloppy so I'm replacing that as well.

 

[IICrazy]

This is a pic of the shaft that goes from the oil pump which is seized up and then goes up to the distributor. as you can see it's a little twisted and about an inch short of reaching the oil pump.

 

[77sleeper]

typical 302 drill bit, most times it is caused by a valve seal

 

[dmoody]

But with the T-5 I've heard you have to shorten the driveshaft and have a piece machined for the inside of the trans? is this all true?

Yes, you have to shorten the driveshaft. Also there is a steel or aluminum collar that surrounds the transmission input shaft. That collar has to be turned down a few thousandths to fit your existing bellhousing. You'll also need to modify your transmission crossmember or find/purchase one designed for the T-5 conversion. They were for sale on e-bay a few years ago.

d

 

[Blue Thunder]

I've seen a lot of small block oil shafts end up looking like that barber-shop pole. The stock units suck. (They look like a pencil, afterall)
Love that twisting-shrinking effect, especially when it falls out into the oil pan.

SVO(or whatever it's called now) makes a killer forged thicker replacement part that's pretty much indestructible.

 

[Dano78]

Yeppers, I never run a stock oil pump drive rod on a hi-volume pump just for that reason. (dunno if your is a HV or not) ARP makes a killer oil pump driverod for the 260-302 engines and it's not priced too bad either. It's the only driverod I use in all my engines. I definately recomment using the ARP one if you still have the chance.