Engine and Tranny

IICrazy

taken away

Mar 28, 2003

976

0

36

Maple Valley, Washington

Aug 23, 2004

#1

• Aug 23, 2004

• #1

I have no oil pressure at all and loud clanking sound so I am pulling the engine tonight, Can I pull the engine and Tranny together? I have a nice cherry picker and load leveler.

And at this point I'm gonna go and replace the tranny as well.

 

L

LedZ 5.0

now you have my pea brain going in circles

Apr 1, 2004

204

0

0

Aug 23, 2004

#2

• Aug 23, 2004

• #2

I think the best way to remove the motor is with the trans attached. It should come out nice with the load leveler. I always bring the motor straight up first and than remove the motor mounts so they don't go crooked and rip while in the frame mounts.
Good luck with the motor.

 

Mstng2

Founding Member

Jun 27, 2002

789

5

19

- - Zion - -

Aug 23, 2004

#3

• Aug 23, 2004

• #3

Yes, It's best to do it that way and re-install that way. Make sure you drain the trans first or you get about 8 quarts of type F all over the floor when you tilt it to get it out. DOH!! (Automatics, or gear oil, standard shift)

 

IICrazy

taken away

Mar 28, 2003

976

0

36

Maple Valley, Washington

Aug 24, 2004

#4

• Aug 24, 2004

• #4

Everything came out great and now I hust have to scrub and paint the engine, and put a new oil pump in it. and replace the clutch and tranny.

How much should I expect to pay for a rebuilt tranny?

 

perce111

Founding Member

Feb 29, 2000

632

0

16

Bellingham, WA

Aug 24, 2004

#5

• Aug 24, 2004

• #5

In my end of the state of WA [Bellingham] a C4 from a good trans shop will run about $600.

Later

 

Dano78

Founding Member

Nov 1, 1999

2,633

2

47

Vancouver, WA

Aug 26, 2004

#6

• Aug 26, 2004

• #6

On this end of the Evergreen State you can get a slightly better than stock rebuilt C4 for about $350-$400 Last one I had done for a 250 I6 ran me $350 w/converter and it was a carry out deal. Called around and there's a shop in the Salem, OR area that'll build a race prep C4 for about 7 bones and I think he'd ship it to my front door, no core. (was looking for one for my Fastack) I'm willing to bet he'll do street versions for quite a bit less. See if I can dig up his info if you're interested.

 

IICrazy

taken away

Mar 28, 2003

976

0

36

Maple Valley, Washington

Aug 27, 2004

#7

• Aug 27, 2004

• #7

I need a 4 spd.

 

perce111

Founding Member

Feb 29, 2000

632

0

16

Bellingham, WA

Aug 27, 2004

#8

• Aug 27, 2004

• #8

I would not replace the 4spd
If you can rebuild cheaply maybe then but if you are looking for a rebuilt I would make the jump to the 5 speed.
It will make your driving a nicer experience and the T5 may actually be cheaper, and you should be able to find good used pretty easily if you want to go that way.

Later

 

Dano78

Founding Member

Nov 1, 1999

2,633

2

47

Vancouver, WA

Aug 27, 2004

#9

• Aug 27, 2004

• #9

OH! Well, hell rebuilt it yerself!

You ever see a company advertising a Mustang II RAD Rebuild kit for $46 or $48 on E-bay. I think it's Transmission Exchange Co or what ever. They are here in Portland, OR. If it's the same place, they use to be called All-Trans. Looks to be the same kit I used and with the synchros, I think I paid $89 for the last complete kit. (about 3 years ago) These kits work great! Here's the link to the most recent auction:
Trans Kit on E-bay

 

IICrazy

taken away

Mar 28, 2003

976

0

36

Maple Valley, Washington

Aug 27, 2004

#10

• Aug 27, 2004

• #10

But with the T-5 I've heard you have to shorten the driveshaft and have a piece machined for the inside of the trans? is this all true?

 

Blue Thunder

15 Year Member

Mar 20, 2004

1,003

55

68

Upstate New York.

Aug 27, 2004

#11

• Aug 27, 2004

• #11

How do the bearings look, since the motor was running with no oil pressure??

 

IICrazy

taken away

Mar 28, 2003

976

0

36

Maple Valley, Washington

Aug 27, 2004

#12

• Aug 27, 2004

• #12

Blue Thunder said:

How do the bearings look, since the motor was running with no oil pressure??

Click to expand...

bearubg were bad, one was spun. Bought a new crank and bearings. Piston walls are great though

 

Blue Thunder

15 Year Member

Mar 20, 2004

1,003

55

68

Upstate New York.

Aug 28, 2004

#13

• Aug 28, 2004

• #13

IICrazy said:

bearubg were bad, one was spun. Bought a new crank and bearings. Piston walls are great though

Click to expand...

Checked the cam bearings, too?

 

IICrazy

taken away

Mar 28, 2003

976

0

36

Maple Valley, Washington

Aug 29, 2004

#14

• Aug 29, 2004

• #14

Blue Thunder said:

Checked the cam bearings, too?

Click to expand...

I checked everything and it all checked out ok except crank and bearings. My timing chain was also a little sloppy so I'm replacing that as well.

 

IICrazy

taken away

Mar 28, 2003

976

0

36

Maple Valley, Washington

Aug 29, 2004

#15

• Aug 29, 2004

• #15

This is a pic of the shaft that goes from the oil pump which is seized up and then goes up to the distributor. as you can see it's a little twisted and about an inch short of reaching the oil pump.

 

7

77sleeper

GO BUCS!

Founding Member

Oct 11, 1999

7,266

0

0

Napalm, AZ

Aug 30, 2004

#16

• Aug 30, 2004

• #16

typical 302 drill bit, most times it is caused by a valve seal

 

D

dmoody

Founding Member

Nov 4, 2002

789

0

17

Winston-Salem, NC

Aug 30, 2004

#17

• Aug 30, 2004

• #17

IICrazy said:

But with the T-5 I've heard you have to shorten the driveshaft and have a piece machined for the inside of the trans? is this all true?

Click to expand...

Yes, you have to shorten the driveshaft. Also there is a steel or aluminum collar that surrounds the transmission input shaft. That collar has to be turned down a few thousandths to fit your existing bellhousing. You'll also need to modify your transmission crossmember or find/purchase one designed for the T-5 conversion. They were for sale on e-bay a few years ago.

d

 

Blue Thunder

15 Year Member

Mar 20, 2004

1,003

55

68

Upstate New York.

Aug 30, 2004

#18

• Aug 30, 2004

• #18

I've seen a lot of small block oil shafts end up looking like that barber-shop pole. The stock units suck. (They look like a pencil, afterall)
Love that twisting-shrinking effect, especially when it falls out into the oil pan.

SVO(or whatever it's called now) makes a killer forged thicker replacement part that's pretty much indestructible.

 

Dano78

Founding Member

Nov 1, 1999

2,633

2

47

Vancouver, WA

Sep 4, 2004

#19

• Sep 4, 2004

• #19

Yeppers, I never run a stock oil pump drive rod on a hi-volume pump just for that reason. (dunno if your is a HV or not) ARP makes a killer oil pump driverod for the 260-302 engines and it's not priced too bad either. It's the only driverod I use in all my engines. I definately recomment using the ARP one if you still have the chance.