Engine Bulid Recommedations

nugget68

Member
Sep 26, 2005
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I have a 68 coupe with the stock 302, 2 bbl carb, and I am wanting to build it to around 300 to 350 hp. the engine has 106,000mi, but was went through at 98,000 sand had new seals and gaskets put in it. My question is, what would be the best way of achieving my hp with the stock lower end, basically what cam, heads, intake, carb, ignition, etc. will I need for this? Limited budget too...thanks in advance...
nugget68
 
the best bang for the buck is a good set of aftermarket heads, with matching intake and cam.

I suppose it depends as always on how far you want to tear it down and how much you have in the budget for parts!

70ish 351W 4 barrel heads can be a good old school upgrade to the puny 302 heads, but they are not at the same level as aftermarket aluminum heads and of course won't give you the weight savings.
 
thanks for the reply, my heads are just stock 302 i think, but when replaced the valve covers, 4v was stamped on the heads under the lifters...i would like to buy some good heads without hurting the pocket too much...there is an advertisement in a local trader magazine that says they have some 351w heads with 190/164 valves, there is no price on them, but i am going to call about them, he also says he has some edelbrock intakes and mustang 5 spds, what would be a fair price for the heads and for the intakes?
 
1: make sure the engine is truely in good shape before you start modifying the engine. new seals and gaskets dont an overhaul make.

2: heads are the key to power. i recommend the world products windsor jr, afr 185, or edelbrock performer rpm heads. and yes you can get the world products heads in aluminum also.

3: the cam sets the rpm range of the engine. for what you want, look for a cam that works in the 1500-5000rpm range, like the comp cams he268h. crane, crower, isky, and claysmith, as well as others have cams that work in this range. when selecting a cam, look at the rpm range first, then look at duration @ .050. that will give you an idea of where in the rpm range your power band will be, larger = higher. the last thing is valve lift. higher lift means better torque, which is what you are looking for for the street.

4: intake and carb. these should also be selected to match the rpm range of the cam you have selected. the performer rpm or weiand stealth intakes work in the rpm range in recommended for a street engine. carb selection should be kept conservative for the street, around 600cfm max. and avoid double pumper carbs for the street, you dont need them.

5: headers. you want a decent tube size, but not too large. 1 1/2" or 1 5/8" primary tubes work fine on the street, use the 1 5/8" tube if you plan on seeing some competition with this car. as far as header design, for the street i prefer the tri-y design as it makes better mid range torque, again what you are looking for. as for the rest of the exhaust system, dual 2 1/4" pipes out the back of the car, using your favorite mufflers.
 
This year I bought a set of Ford "twisted wedge" GT-40 Aluminum heads on ebay for $650. There are more used aluminum heads at simular prices. As my car is to be a "street" crusier & not a racer, I wont miss having the latest max HP ARP head. While still having a very decent street head.
Those ported DOOE 351 heads will probably cost as much while, not having the weight savings, and unless they are milled for a smaller combustion chamber, you loose compression too.
 
Thank you guys so much for all the replies...one more quick question...i found a set od 351 heads from a 69 fairmont with 1.90/1.64 valves...i havent seen them but the guy said they are good, but have been off the car and just have surface rust on the bottom of them, he's askin $250, is this a good deal, and are these heads applicable for what i am looking to get out of my engine(300-350hp streetable)...