try this and you will not be dissapointed http://www.seafoamsales.com/motorTuneUp.htm then you get a smoke show from hell when all that carbon build up comes out like this here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u-EiujUXW78&mode=related&search=and also frees up some leftover ponys . i usually put some in the crank case and run it for 100 miles or so then change out the oil when hot just to get all the sluge outta there.
I dunno...there is A LOT of engineering into oil these days (especially the true group IV or V synthetics) and there really is no need to add anything else. If you have a sticky lifter or some other problem, adding mystery oil or any of those things is only going to be a temporary fix at best. In the mean time you are diluting and reducing the oil's ability to do what it does best - lubricate and cool.
Seafoam in the gas is another story and probably a discussion for another thread.
Seafoam in the gas is another story and probably a discussion for another thread.
I have put about a cup of the Marvel oil in some of our older work trucks with 460s that had a lifter tick. I would put it in, drive for about 15 minutes and then change the oil. Doing that would get rid of lifter tick for a good 10 - 12 months. I have never done it to one of my cars but I also do very regular if not too much preventative maintenance.(not saying you don't) If you have been adding stop leak and such I would say try it I would do that well before putting stop leak in a motor.
Yeah, I was the guy that responded to your original post. I've never used sea-foam, but have heard good things about it cleaning out gummed up carbs, etc. Can't comment on any of the other products.
I don't think you're going to get a unanimous vote on any single product here, so go with your gut. I'm glad to see one other guy has had good luck with the MM oil cleaning gummy lifters.
I'd probably opt not to use any of the additives and agree with DucatiRdr on this one. Change your oil and don't add any of the Restore or stop leak stuff. Pretty much every oil on the market has some detergent properties to it to prevent sludge, but adding things containing solids (both the Restore and stop leak stuff) will plug up oil passages in your lifters in no time.
Magnetic drain plugs are great, but keep in mind that they will not pick up particles from the bearings. If the bores are wearing, that material will stick to the magnet.
The bearings are non-ferrous though.
All of the following is my opinion...
Why in the hell would you add a solvent to your engine oil?
That crap thins out your oil.
Oil is ENGINEERED to have viscosity, and a very specific viscosity at that.
If you feel the need to 'clean' out your oil passages, then just change you oil filter, add a quart of ATF, and let the car idle for a good ten minutes or so.
HOWEVER, the only time you should NEED to do this is if the engine used to run on leaded fuel, back in the 60's.
Today's oils and fuels do not need additives and do not need any products to 'clean' the crankcase.
also,
Just because the oil 'looks' dirty does not mean that it is unable to perform its duties as a lubricant.
jason
Engine flushes can have good results to reduce sludge and varnishes. However they can also break up sludge and clogg the pickup screen. Many of these solvents are basically ether and something else, I forgot what, but basically a fuel. Yes it works, but has side effects and do not drive or put any real load on the engine when that stuff is in.
Marvell mystery oil is good, because it is still an oil, but a cleaner as well. You can put it in, as a quart of oil, but I suggest changing the oil early. Maby run slightly thicker oil than regular.
Lucas just turns your oil much thicker than before.
I would run an engine flush on the old oil (considering it still has some life to it) then change the oil and run a quart of Marvell with the oil change, then change the oil early, say 1500-2000 miles and then use regular oil. It should be damn clean then.
I do not belive that any of this kind of thing is any good for an engine with a problem. Kind of like doing a trans flush on a slipping trans.... it might make it worse.
Marvell mystery oil is good, because it is still an oil, but a cleaner as well. You can put it in, as a quart of oil, but I suggest changing the oil early. Maby run slightly thicker oil than regular.
Lucas just turns your oil much thicker than before.
I would run an engine flush on the old oil (considering it still has some life to it) then change the oil and run a quart of Marvell with the oil change, then change the oil early, say 1500-2000 miles and then use regular oil. It should be damn clean then.
I do not belive that any of this kind of thing is any good for an engine with a problem. Kind of like doing a trans flush on a slipping trans.... it might make it worse.
at my old work we used Pyroil engine flush, it's pretty gnarly so i'd definately reccomend doing at least that. on top of it though, i'd actually throw some marvell in there too with your new oil.
also, if your too poor to afford an engine flush, just throw a quart of ATF in your motor along with your old oil and let it idle for 5 minutes then drain it. pretty much does the same thing.
also, if your too poor to afford an engine flush, just throw a quart of ATF in your motor along with your old oil and let it idle for 5 minutes then drain it. pretty much does the same thing.