Engine mount plate?
- Thread starter 68coupe408
- Start date
1320stang
Founding Member
Well, I'd suggest running solid motor mounts or at least an engine limiting device. Is it a drag only car? Are your motor mounts torn?
Campbell Enterprises sells front and mid plates for various brands and are among the cheapest I've seen. I've seen some guys eliminate the tranny mount when running motor plates, bad idea. You need a device to limit the front to rear deflection, I've gone up to such cars without a limiter and just shoved the front of the engine and watched it move front to rear. I also saw a kid without one hit the wall, caused his carb to go over half throttle 'cause the plates bent, scraped down the wall for an 1/8 mile before he hit the shutoff. Whole brand new '68 Camaro drag car ruined, only engine and tranny and roof still good. Even his fire suit was ruined.
Campbell Enterprises sells front and mid plates for various brands and are among the cheapest I've seen. I've seen some guys eliminate the tranny mount when running motor plates, bad idea. You need a device to limit the front to rear deflection, I've gone up to such cars without a limiter and just shoved the front of the engine and watched it move front to rear. I also saw a kid without one hit the wall, caused his carb to go over half throttle 'cause the plates bent, scraped down the wall for an 1/8 mile before he hit the shutoff. Whole brand new '68 Camaro drag car ruined, only engine and tranny and roof still good. Even his fire suit was ruined.
Currently I have the stock rubber mounts that are worn. I was looking at a front plate setup because that would allow me to lower the engine slightly and stop the vibration. I am going to keep the transmission mounted as it is. Will the solid motor mounts stop the vibration? I thought they would only add to it.
I know of a drag car with a front plate and the car does not shake at all. My goal is to be able to adjust the carb while idling, instead of stabbing wildly at it.
I know of a drag car with a front plate and the car does not shake at all. My goal is to be able to adjust the carb while idling, instead of stabbing wildly at it.
65ShelbyClone
Founding Member
Have you tried a torque strap of some sort on the driver's side of the engine? It sounds like the problem is the engine moving around in the bay rather than vibration in the car. Solid mounts would probably work also.
The engine is moving around causing what I call a vibration. The car will shake a coke bottle of the roof while idling. No strap on this engine currently. More or less a strap will help should a mount break again. Anyone running solid mounts with a healthy cam? I need something that will not rattle all the bolts loose.
washMO66
Founding Member
I have TCP solid motor mounts with a fairly lopey cam and I do a nut and bolt on the car on a regular basis (just a safety thing for me). It doesn't rattle everything loose but I can't say everything is "always" tight.
They have worked great for me.
They have worked great for me.
With the solid mounts, you may stop the movement of the engine in the chassis, but you will certainly still transmit ALL the lopeyness of the cam to the chassy. We are using the Ron Morris mounts which utilize a small urethane bushing with a cam that has some lope to it and we can feel the difference in the body (more engine vibration).
Where can you find the TCP solid motor mounts. I am on there website and can not find them?
washMO66
Founding Member
washMO66
Founding Member
Sorry - Solid-er. There is not much give in them.
I would'nt go with a 100% solid mount, aside from going to a motor plate these should do anything you need them to do.
Or you can run a bolt through the factory mounts.
I would'nt go with a 100% solid mount, aside from going to a motor plate these should do anything you need them to do.
Or you can run a bolt through the factory mounts.
I currently run a bolt through the ds mount and also have a chain rigged up to limit engine movement. What is your reasoning for not going 100%solid.
washMO66
Founding Member
I would just think you would get more vibration through the car.... Just a preference thing for me since I drive my car to work a day or two a week during the summer. My new motor is going to be upwards of 750 or 800 HP and I still intend to use these same mounts.....
Like I said, a preference thing and your call.
TB
Like I said, a preference thing and your call.
TB
69gmachine
Member
Dynamics engineers used to have a saying: "vibration can neither be created nor destroyed, it can only be moved from one place to another". You need to fix the source of the vibration.
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