Engine Paint

What about aluminum parts like the water pump and timing cover. These parts are where my old part was flaking badly. Right now I plan to leave the intake, timing cover and water pump unpainted. I don't want to run into the same problem of flaking in the future and I've seen several engines where these are unpainted and they make a good contrast. Opinions anyone.

Just curious, has anyone come across a really good high temperature etch primer spray can for aluminum?
 
tweet66 said:
1320stang, did you have to add any extra hardener to the BC/CC paints for the increased temp of the engine? I was going to paint my block body color and figured I could use the same paint but I'm worried about the increased temp causing flaking.

Adding extra hardner will not help, You will just get an overactavated clear and could end up with problems. Any good BC/CC can hold up to the heat of a block with no problems.
 
I prefer the gold and black which is on my 65 289. But, blue is cool too!
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I got half the block cleaned off with Gunk soaked Scotchbrite pads and rags last night. It's coming up really clean. I saw that Eastwood's do sell a kit to block off the exhaust ports and other openings but I opted for duct tape. As regards grinding the jagged edges off the block. My personal opinion is that I associate this treatment with really high end hot rods. My car is a driver with some enhanced performance and if anything I would want to steer the look of the car towards the cafe, road racer type look. But everyone is entitled to their own styling opinions, that's what makes this hobby so diverse.
 
geordie said:
My car is a driver with some enhanced performance and if anything I would want to steer the look of the car towards the cafe, road racer type look.

I look forward to seeing that :nice:. I'm going for the Trans-Am/roadracer look.

Just another note since mustangdave mentioned it, Plasti-Kote aluminum colored high-temp(500*) or header paint(1200-1500*) looks about 95% like clean satin/cast aluminum. I used it on my 5.0's valve covers and lower intake and not only did it stay cleaner alot longer than bare metal, it looks brighter. I imagine clear would do the same with a very slightly more natural look. You could do either on your timing cover/water pump with good results(its what I plan to do).

The iron colored paint is intersting too. I may use it on the water pump if I can't find an aluminum one.
 
The block has been painted now and I got the intake and the valve covers on last night. It looks really good.

I've stripped the timing chain cover of the old paint. My thoughts are still to leave it unpainted as the previous paint was partially stripped off it. I guess even hight temp engine paint doesn't stick that well to aluminum.

I don't want to paint the timing chain cover. I don't even want to spray it with clear as I'm now sure whether this will flake off after time.

What about polishing the aluminum of the timing cover. I'm not looking for a 'Pimp Your Ride' type look here, just clean and functional. Anyone out there got an unpainted timing cover. What are your opinions guys?
 
Sorry SPORTSROOF69, too light for me. Wait till I get an oil pan on mine and I'll post a pic.

VT66PONY. I removed the timing chain cover paint with some spray on heavy duty paint remover I got from Checkers. Read the instructions this stuff really works but will burn your skin. Be careful and wear eye protection.

Back to thread message #29, any thoughts on unpainted timing covers. I know I've seen them.
 
geordie said:
Read the instructions this stuff really works but will burn your skin. Be careful and wear eye protection.

Back to thread message #29, any thoughts on unpainted timing covers. I know I've seen them.

That burning is probably the methyl chloride. Its horrible stuff, but I wont get paint stripper without it.

I plan on using a natural aluminum timing cover with an aluminum water pump. I'll hit them both with some high-temp clear to keep discoloring to a minimum. Should accent my natural aluminum heads and intake nicely :D.