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Engine Paint

  • Thread starter Thread starter geordie
  • Start date Start date Apr 25, 2005
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geordie

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May 10, 2002
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Apr 28, 2005
#21
  • Apr 28, 2005
  • #21
What about aluminum parts like the water pump and timing cover. These parts are where my old part was flaking badly. Right now I plan to leave the intake, timing cover and water pump unpainted. I don't want to run into the same problem of flaking in the future and I've seen several engines where these are unpainted and they make a good contrast. Opinions anyone.

Just curious, has anyone come across a really good high temperature etch primer spray can for aluminum?
 

txwoody

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Jun 2, 2004
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4 hours to anywhere, TX
Apr 28, 2005
#22
  • Apr 28, 2005
  • #22
tweet66 said:
1320stang, did you have to add any extra hardener to the BC/CC paints for the increased temp of the engine? I was going to paint my block body color and figured I could use the same paint but I'm worried about the increased temp causing flaking.
Click to expand...

Adding extra hardner will not help, You will just get an overactavated clear and could end up with problems. Any good BC/CC can hold up to the heat of a block with no problems.
 
S

Soaring1

Banned
Jan 3, 2003
144
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Apr 28, 2005
#23
  • Apr 28, 2005
  • #23
I prefer the gold and black which is on my 65 289. But, blue is cool too!
 

1320stang

Founding Member
Nov 13, 1998
4,329
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Edmond, Oklahoma
Apr 28, 2005
#24
  • Apr 28, 2005
  • #24
I didn't paint it. My bud's cousin works in the body shop of the Ford dealership they work at and he did it at home I believe. I'll email him to ask about any additives.
 
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geordie

Founding Member
May 10, 2002
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Apr 28, 2005
#25
  • Apr 28, 2005
  • #25
Any thought on painting aluminum parts, see message #21 above?
 
M

mustangdave

My rearend needs a stud and two nuts.
Founding Member
Feb 26, 2002
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Apr 28, 2005
#26
  • Apr 28, 2005
  • #26
I like to use a clear paint on aluminum to protect it.
 
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geordie

Founding Member
May 10, 2002
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Apr 29, 2005
#27
  • Apr 29, 2005
  • #27
I got half the block cleaned off with Gunk soaked Scotchbrite pads and rags last night. It's coming up really clean. I saw that Eastwood's do sell a kit to block off the exhaust ports and other openings but I opted for duct tape. As regards grinding the jagged edges off the block. My personal opinion is that I associate this treatment with really high end hot rods. My car is a driver with some enhanced performance and if anything I would want to steer the look of the car towards the cafe, road racer type look. But everyone is entitled to their own styling opinions, that's what makes this hobby so diverse.
 

65ShelbyClone

Founding Member
Sep 9, 2000
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Apr 29, 2005
#28
  • Apr 29, 2005
  • #28
geordie said:
My car is a driver with some enhanced performance and if anything I would want to steer the look of the car towards the cafe, road racer type look.
Click to expand...

I look forward to seeing that . I'm going for the Trans-Am/roadracer look.

Just another note since mustangdave mentioned it, Plasti-Kote aluminum colored high-temp(500*) or header paint(1200-1500*) looks about 95% like clean satin/cast aluminum. I used it on my 5.0's valve covers and lower intake and not only did it stay cleaner alot longer than bare metal, it looks brighter. I imagine clear would do the same with a very slightly more natural look. You could do either on your timing cover/water pump with good results(its what I plan to do).

The iron colored paint is intersting too. I may use it on the water pump if I can't find an aluminum one.
 
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geordie

Founding Member
May 10, 2002
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Jun 15, 2005
#29
  • Jun 15, 2005
  • #29
The block has been painted now and I got the intake and the valve covers on last night. It looks really good.

I've stripped the timing chain cover of the old paint. My thoughts are still to leave it unpainted as the previous paint was partially stripped off it. I guess even hight temp engine paint doesn't stick that well to aluminum.

I don't want to paint the timing chain cover. I don't even want to spray it with clear as I'm now sure whether this will flake off after time.

What about polishing the aluminum of the timing cover. I'm not looking for a 'Pimp Your Ride' type look here, just clean and functional. Anyone out there got an unpainted timing cover. What are your opinions guys?
 
V

VT66PONY

New Member
Jan 1, 2005
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Virginia
Jun 15, 2005
#30
  • Jun 15, 2005
  • #30
:OT: Sorry for the hijack, but I was wondering...how do you remove old engine paint?
 
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sportsroof69

Founding Member
May 21, 2002
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Jun 15, 2005
#31
  • Jun 15, 2005
  • #31


This is the light Ford blue from Plasticote. It makes the engine REALLY stand out.
 
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geordie

Founding Member
May 10, 2002
576
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Jun 15, 2005
#32
  • Jun 15, 2005
  • #32
Sorry SPORTSROOF69, too light for me. Wait till I get an oil pan on mine and I'll post a pic.

VT66PONY. I removed the timing chain cover paint with some spray on heavy duty paint remover I got from Checkers. Read the instructions this stuff really works but will burn your skin. Be careful and wear eye protection.

Back to thread message #29, any thoughts on unpainted timing covers. I know I've seen them.
 

65ShelbyClone

Founding Member
Sep 9, 2000
4,675
38
119
Antelope Valley, SoCal
Jun 15, 2005
#33
  • Jun 15, 2005
  • #33
geordie said:
Read the instructions this stuff really works but will burn your skin. Be careful and wear eye protection.

Back to thread message #29, any thoughts on unpainted timing covers. I know I've seen them.
Click to expand...

That burning is probably the methyl chloride. Its horrible stuff, but I wont get paint stripper without it.

I plan on using a natural aluminum timing cover with an aluminum water pump. I'll hit them both with some high-temp clear to keep discoloring to a minimum. Should accent my natural aluminum heads and intake nicely .
 

cardude

Founding Member
Apr 20, 2000
221
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Portland, OR
Jun 16, 2005
#34
  • Jun 16, 2005
  • #34
I went with the dark ford blue. I agree it does not stand out but it sure makes the chrome and K&N stand out more!
 
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