Engine pull

whatever you do, PLEASE do a write-up with pictures of the whole process step by step. I'd like to pull my engine one day to also do the oil pan gasket and intake/head work, but I don't yet feel confident doing it. Thanks!

mrjess47 said:

Thanks for the help guys. But... screw it I am pulling the engine out, it needs a little help, well allot. The whole engine bay is caked with grease and dirt, it needs a new oil pan gasket, front and rear main seals, and a good cleaning. But while I have it out I will take advantage of the extra space and put it a new cam and do some head work. What do you recomend? I am also going to seriously update the front suspension, any ideas? It was in an accident in its past, I found some evidence when pulling out the radiator and taking off the front bumper cover, (going to be updated with a cobra bumper cover.) The radiator core support is bent up pretty bad accros the bottom. It will make it easier to take out the motor right? Last guestion are there 6 or 7 bolts holding the engine to the tranny? I know it probably woul have been easier to take it appart from the bell housing but too late, I already have 6 bolts out.
Any and all help will be greatly appreciated.

Click to expand...

is it an auto or stick? if its an auto, the bellhousing is part of the trans, and theres six bolts holding it on to the block, with three or four inside holding the torque converter to the flywheel that you have to remove first. if its a t5, theres 4 bolts holding the trans to the bell, and 6 holding the bell to the block.

either way, its going to be a ton easier to pull engine and trans still hooked up, and separate the two once theyre out and on the ground.

the whole process is pretty easy if you know where things are. drain all fluids, remove driveshaft, h-pipe, crossmember, and speedo cable/backup wiring from under the car, then radiator, upper intake, disconnect all the sensors, and take the nuts off the engine mounts, hook up your lift, and off you go.

If you have all that out, I would replace the core support. I did it in about a day. I ordered a new one from 50resto.com. i think it was about $170. Replacing it was a lot easier than I was prepared for. All I did was drill all the welds out on the old one and burned the new one in its place. Just take lots of measurements. The fit was awesome for me, I just had to cut a little for the radiator lower support to allow the rad to sit lower. I wouldnt even think of cutting one out of another car, every JY wanted over $200 for it and that didnt include the cost to cut it out...

mine an 88 gt also but no vert. and also white and my bay looks just like yours and my pan leaks iver been wanting to do this but its the daily driver and can have it down that long.

The engine will come out, and that is the easy part. It becomes obvious if you need to disconnect or move something. Putting it back together three weeks or three months later is a different story. You will have forgotten many small but important details.

A word of wisdom: tag every wire you disconnect and tag the place you disconnected it from with an identical tag. If you take the time to note the wire colors on the tags for the body mounted items, it will be a foolproof method of keeping track of what plugs into what. Number the tags so that you know if one is missing. Do the same thing for the vacuum lines.

Put all the bolts from each item you remove (starter, alternator, smog pump, etc.) in a separate zip bag and put a piece of paper inside the bag with the number of bolts, their sizes and the item they went to. Then you can throw the zip bagged bolts in a 5 gallon plastic pail and still keep up with them. Zip bag each of the small items and put a piece of paper inside identifying the item and where it goes.


Some removal tips...
Unbolt the headers from the engine, but keep the funny looking plates bolted to the head exhaust flanges. They are useful as lifting ears to attach the hoist chain. Do not use bolts threaded into the aluminum intake manifold to lift the engine

You will need to disconnect the headers from the H pipe and the H pipe from the mufflers. This will be one of your big challenges. The bolts are usually rusted enough to require application of PB Blaster and extreme force. Soak the bolts with PB Blaster and let them sit overnight if possible. Buy a thick walled 6 point socket to attack the header and H pipe bolts. Depending on who was the last person to remove the nuts and bolts, they are either 11/16" or 5/8" heads. Be prepared to apply a propane torch to the nuts if they threaten to round off even with a 6 point socket.

Disconnect the negative battery cable. This will prevent sparks and short circuit damage if you ground out something electrical while removing it.

Put a 2x4 wood block under the engine oil pan to support the engine. Jack it up slightly. This prevents damage to the motor mounts when the transmission mount is removed. The oil pan is plenty strong for this purpose. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Label all the wiring for the transmission before disconnecting it. Disconnect the O2 sensor cables at their connectors. Disconnect the speedo cable by pulling it straight out of the VSS sensor, or by removing the bolt that holds the VSS sensor in place. If you remove the VSS sensor, zip bag & tag it along with the bolt that secures in place.

Remove the drive shaft, the rear bolts are 12 MM. You will need a high quality 12 point wrench for this: do not skimp or you risk rounding off the bolt heads. A helper to step on the brake to keep the drive shaft from turning will be helpful. Use your foot to apply pressure to the wrench to loosen the bolts. Note the yellow markings in the drive shaft and write down their alignment.



5 speed transmission cars:
Put a catch pan under the rear of the transmission to catch the fluid when you slide the yoke out of the transmission. I recommend that you drain the transmission at this time. There is a pair of pipe plug filler ports on the side of the transmission. Use the lower plug to drain the fluid.

Inside the car, remove the shifter boot and then remove the shifter handle
Remove the H pipe & rear trans cross member. The chassis to cross member bolts are metric, you need a 15 MM & 17 MM socket or wrench. Note the direction and size of the humps on the cross member and write it down. Inspect the rear transmission mount and replace if damaged.


See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds
(website host) for help on 86-95 5.0 Mustang wiring Mustang FAQ - Engine Information Everyone should bookmark this site.

Ignition switch wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif

Fuel, alternator, A/C and ignition wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 88-91 5.0 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif

Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 91-93 5.0 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/91-93_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif

Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 94-95 5.0 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/94-95_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif

Vacuum diagram 89-93 Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustangFoxFordVacuumDiagram.jpg

Vacuum Diagram 87-93 Mustangs
The diagram says 88 Mustang, but except for the vacuum line connected to the MAP/Baro sensor, it is the same for all 5.0 Mustangs from 87-93. The 89-93 Mustangs vent the MAP/Baro sensor to open air.
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88Stang5.0Vacuum.gif

HVAC vacuum diagram
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/Mustang_AC_heat_vacuum_controls.gif

TFI module differences & pinout
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/TFI_5.0_comparison.gif

Fuse box layout
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/MustangFuseBox.gif

I just pulled mine two months ago....
Like JRichker said, bag and tag everything. Its only been two months and there is no way in hell I could remember what most of those connections are now if I hadn't marked them.

Its been over 10 years since its been out, and it will probably be another ten before I do it again. So everything and anything is being checked. Even dropping the oil pan and going with a new pump, tray and 7qt pan this time.

As well as inspecting the crank, timing chain, pull the heads, replace gaskets, new water pump, etc..., then repaint the block and clean up and repaint the engine bay before dropping it back in.

I'm also thinking about dropping the tank, replacing the fuel pump and running new braided fuel lines too.

Good luck with the rebuild!

Good advice on bagging and tagging. I also use my cell phone camera to take reference photos.

One of the nice things about the ford harness is that the connectors are all different and only plug into one thing. That will help keep you from connecting something wrong.

If taking the engine and trans out together I strongly suggest an engine leveler for the hoist. I am not sure you can even do it without one. I have pulled the engine/trans out together several times, you have to go in and out at a severe angle to make it work. I let the air out of the front tires to lower the front of the car a little.

Double and triple check all wires are disconnected before you start the removal. It won't take much to break them it you miss something.

Last I checked, tool rental yards charged about 35 dollars for 4 hoursfor a hoist. But that was years ago. I bought mine for 99 dollars and it was money well spent. Granted that was a great deal, but I think you can get a decent one still for under 200. And the leveler is about 50-60 bucks.

Good luck with your build, keep us updated on how it goes!

No O2 sensors? Are you doing an EFI to carb swap or going with an aftermarket fuel injection system?