Engine question (having someone build me one...making sure he isnt feeding me B.S)

95CobraStang

Member
Jan 21, 2004
281
1
18
Chico, CA
Hey everybody-

I'm getting quotes on engines from all around right now. So far, I have one from DSS and a local guy. I have questions about what the local guy told me so here goes: I apologize now if I have failed to include all necessary info.

first of all- $8300 for long block sans intakes, valve covers, distributor, and flex plate.

older 302 block due to the fact that they are thicker....all prepped,
347 stroker
all forged internals (all top-of line-line or upper tier)
Canton oil pan
custom grind cam
girdle
AFR 185s
compression at 8.6:1 for the KB
billet water pump
(Much more...sorry but i forget a lot of it)

Basically, here's my question- does that price sound reasonable? My quote from DSS was for a 306 w/ trickflow wedges and all forged and included a distributor, flexplate, and valve covers. I was quoted at $7800.

Next question-

he said that he would be replacing all the springs on the AFRs to more stiffer ones for my blower at 8-10psi. Is this necessary? I have never heard of needing to do that on brand new AFRs...however I dont have much technical expertise here.
 
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Sounds like about double what I built my 331 for. Compression ratio is pretty low too, unless you plan on supercharging it. Mine was a 5.0 roller block, 331 Eagle stroker kit (cast steel crank, SIR rods, SRP forged flat tops) Canfield heads, 3x2 intake and carbs, Ford Z303 cam, girdle. Total cost was $4500
 
it does not really sound out of line. remember a local guy isn't going to get a big discount like D.S.S will on their parts.

side note - i've been extremely happy with the D.S.S shortblock i have. only a base bullet 306, but it's seen 7000 RPM on a regular basis and never had a worry. (27k miles on it now).
 
well, while it may not be a v8 engine and I may not be a real shop...I charged a guy $1000 to rebuild his 4 cylinder...with him supplying the parts...with a v8 I'd most likely charge $2000....so figure around $6500ish...but then again I dont have any tools to replace or employees to pay...so the price doesnt sount too far out of line
 
I bought a long block package from PAW. It cost me a little over 2 grand but then with all the other stuff I probablly put another 2 into it. You have to assemble it but its worth it. It has stock heads with new springs and valves. You could get a shortblock from them for much less and buy your own heads. They balance the whole combo. I would go that route again in the future but I would get the stroker instead of the standard 351. You can chose the compression and they have lots of options for it. If you are uncomfortable building it yourself, have someone else do it and you would still save money. Almost 8 grand for a longblock is a lot.
 
I do agree... i guess I had better continue my research...we aren't talking pennies here...but thousands...

While I'm on the engine subject:

do you guys think I am crazy to strap a Kenne Bell to the car? It's not like it will be hurting for torque...and the KB provides it pretty instantly.

Maybe I should be looking more towards centri...it might do me some good to have boost kick in slightly later.

any opinions?

btw- when everything is done, ill post a pretty bad a$$ video to show the final product...i wish everybody would since we all help out on these cars!!
 
You might want to compare Coast High Performance as well. I got my 347 long block from them with AFR 185's for $4200 rated @ 400HP and 420 Lbs with 1 year warranty. I didn't pop for all forged internals since I didn't plan on racing or abusing it too often. In my opinion, unless you plan for a lot of track time, the KB or other supercharger isn't needed. This much HP alone is a handful and more than needed on the streets. My tires break free when I jump on the gas in second gear without trying. Couldn't imagine using any more than what I already have on tap, but depends on how you plan to use it.
 
If you are putting forged internals in a stock block, I would not. The block will be the weak link. There are plenty of people splitting 5.0 blocks with all stock shortblocks. An early block might buy some time, but will still be suspect.
 
If you are putting forged internals in a stock block, I would not. The block will be the weak link. There are plenty of people splitting 5.0 blocks with all stock shortblocks. An early block might buy some time, but will still be suspect.

:D Yea, but it sounds sooooo intimidating:D "All forged internals" . I did a build using a $350 reman shortblock with stock crank, rods and Silvolite pistons a couple years ago. It split the #4 cylinder wall at 7500 rpms. Wasn't a big crack, only a 1/2" long, midway in the bore (made it a sum-bitch to find too) but it was enough to make the oil a milkshake.:bang: I sold the rods and pistons to someone else who used em again. Crank was also fine.
 
:D Yea, but it sounds sooooo intimidating:D "All forged internals" . I did a build using a $350 reman shortblock with stock crank, rods and Silvolite pistons a couple years ago. It split the #4 cylinder wall at 7500 rpms. Wasn't a big crack, only a 1/2" long, midway in the bore (made it a sum-bitch to find too) but it was enough to make the oil a milkshake.:bang: I sold the rods and pistons to someone else who used em again. Crank was also fine.
What's a cheap way to strengthen it? Valley girdle?