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  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-
  • SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech

Engine removal

  • Thread starter Thread starter apats77
  • Start date Start date Aug 3, 2011

apats77

Member
May 2, 2011
178
1
18
Watertown, MA
Aug 3, 2011
#1
  • Aug 3, 2011
  • #1
Taking the junk engine out on friday. We decided going through the bottom would be better.

Any one have a break down on how this is done?

We have a full shop at our disposal
 

SiahNyde

Member
Dec 3, 2010
125
1
17
Oregon
Aug 4, 2011
#2
  • Aug 4, 2011
  • #2
what year?
 

Lugnuts

Member
May 11, 2011
128
0
16
Evans, GA
Aug 4, 2011
#3
  • Aug 4, 2011
  • #3
That is more work but do as you wish. Just make sure that you have whatever lift you are using positioned well in the back 'cause after you drop the front out, the car will be back heavy. I am guessing that you do not need a step by step. For the most part, it is like taking it out the top - take everything loose that ties the engine to the car - hoses, throttle cable, fuel lines, wiring, etc (trans unless you are pulling it as well in which case you have to take it loose). Of course, I leave the AC and power steering in the car just take it off the engine and zip tie them up out of the way.

Then the extras to come out the bottom - tops of struts, brake lines, steering inkage, etc. Then remove the front subframe bolts and drop it all out. Are you taking the trans out as well? Might as well since it is just a little extra to do. Even if you have a load leveler it is always helpful to have an extra pair of hands. Are you considering a tubular K-member? If so, this is the time!
This is a very basic lay out of the work - if you have not pulled or installed an engine then you have a learning curve ahead. It is not hard, but a little time consuming. If it is not moving, don't force it - see why it is in a bind and take care of it. Paying attention to the details will really help you as you go back with the new engine.
Without rushing I usually have an engine out in under 2 hours and can drop the engine and trans out the bottom in about the same time with air tools. Going back is easier when you come out the top and you do not have to line up the steering wheel or bleed the brakes but this is really no big deal.
Just remember again, when you drop that weight out the front, the back end becomes heavier than the front - prepare for that or you could drop the car off the back of the lift. Don't get hurt - it's not worth it.
 

apats77

Member
May 2, 2011
178
1
18
Watertown, MA
Aug 4, 2011
#4
  • Aug 4, 2011
  • #4
SiahNyde : Its a 1998 GT 5 Speed


Lugnuts: Thank you for the input. We are dropping the trans as well. Unfortunately I have no money left after buying all the parts to buy a tubular K member. Any other tips or tricks or warnings you can give me is much appreciated.
 

Maxpowers

Member
Sep 9, 2009
859
2
19
Pittsburgh, Pa
Aug 4, 2011
#5
  • Aug 4, 2011
  • #5
Here's a tip. Take it all out the top.
 

Flghtmstr1

Member
Mar 31, 2005
572
4
19
Springfield, PA
Aug 7, 2011
#6
  • Aug 7, 2011
  • #6
Maxpowers said:
Here's a tip. Take it all out the top.
Click to expand...

+1. I'm in the middle of an engine swap too, and after considering both options, I took mine out of the top, and I'm glad I did.
 

Rick 91GT

Mustang Master
Nov 29, 1999
9,692
95
99
PA
Aug 8, 2011
#7
  • Aug 8, 2011
  • #7
If your not swapping in a K-member then I also suggest taking it out from the top, save your self a lot of usless work.
 
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