equals hitting steering shaft

check your motor mounts. Ill be willing to bet they have collapsed and allowing the engine to set lower in the valley.

Usually the Flaming River shaft clears up the interference issue, but it does not hurt to check the motor mounts as suggested.

I read that the Flaming Rver shaft is junk and that the MM shaft is a much better design, I never heard of the Borgeson shaft though.

streetyme said:

I have 86 fox and have taken out the old exhaust and already installed the passenger side without a hitch, but when I went to install the drivers side no matter what I do its hitting the steering shaft.. Do i just loosen the stock shaft or do I need the Flaming River shaft? Any advice would be appreciated

Joe

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WOHA there a minute Joe!!!
First, you have two choices to make
1) Get another year Stang
2) Change your name.
You are NOT ALLOWED to have an '86 Stang and be called Joe.
So, MAKE UP YOUR MIND WHICH YOU WANT!
NOW!!


Uhm, otherwise,
Don't listen to the myth about motor mounts. That's very rarely the case.

In reality, the Stang tolerances are somewhere between sucko and non existent. Often, people can loosen their steering shaft and move it over just enough to clear the headers.

Some people will also "dimple" the headers to allow room for the steering shaft.

After that, it's time to go to the MM steering shaft.

UNDER NO REASON AT ALL SHOULD YOU BUY THE POS DEATH TRAP FLAMING RIVER STEERING SHAFT DESIGNED AND SOLD BY SOME OF THE BIGGEST MORONS ON THIS EARTH!!!!!!!!

Uhm, is that clear?
Buy the MM steering shaft!

FWIW:
Flaming river steering shaft questions - Corral Forums

BTW: Unless someone has an engineering degree, and many years of real world experience with high vibration environments, IMHO, they can stick their comments about how "good" that Flaming River POS DEATH TRAP steering shaft FAR up their *ss and the follow it with that POS steering shaft.

Last: Four Eyes RULE!

BTW: You'd think that the clueless ***holes at Flaming River would have made the SIMPLE changes by now. But, nope! Goes to show that CLUELESS MORONS are clueless morons.

BTW: Any car pics?
Here are my latest:
Mustang 86 - Mach1 Springs

one word: hammer

I have an '86 with equal lengths also, and they do just baaaaaaaaaaaaaaarely tap the steering shaft. Not trying to cause a ruckus, but replacing my motor mounts actually did help, the old ones were shot and after the new ones, I gained about 1/4-1/2" more clearance per side. Before new motor mounts, the headers literally pressed against the steering shaft, and actually tapped the sheet metal on the passenger side, too.

That's just my experience...

streetyme said:

I loosened the steering shaft up from inside the car and moved it over just a bit, but the header is still hitting the shaft. It does not appear to be hitting the rag joint.. Would the MM shaft fix this? In the mean time I guess I'll install my stock headers and wait for the shaft to come in ...

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As NikwoaC said, it takes a very little tap to clearance the headers. It won't effect performance. But, I can see the desire not to do that. Also, the header is close to the engine. And, you do have to clearance the header enough so when the engine rocks, it won't hit the steering shaft.

Plus, any Fox that still has the OEM steering shaft and rag joint is on borrowed time. So, putting in the MM steering shaft isn't a bad idea.

Yes, a MM steering shaft should give you the required clearance. But, I don't know with a 4-eye. 4-eye's have a slightly different front suspension. So, just because the same combo may work on an 97-93 Stang, there may still be some interference. I don't know if they kept the steering wheel in the same exact place when Ford when to the newer dash. A 1/4" isn't that noticeable for people doing a dash swap. But, a 1/4" is the difference between having clearance and not for the steering shaft.

You will get more clearance with the MM steering shaft. You cam call/email the people at MM (very nice and knowledgeable) and ask if they know how much more clearance their steering shaft provides. IMHO, email would be best for a very specific question like that.

If you do replace the steering shaft. Make sure you have the steering wheel straight and the wheel straight. When you put the steering shaft back on, make sure the steering wheel didn't move at all.

I forget, but I think that the stock steering shaft has a ?torx? or weird bolt at the end ner the rack.

Also, it's a PITA to get to the bolt and nut near the firewall. Two people would be great. Doing by yourself really sucks.

IMHO, I'd "clearance" a header before I went through that hassle again. But, you do get more precise steering (and more road feel - some see that as bad) with the MM steering shaft. And, you won't have to worry about when your rag joint will go.

So, there are you options. Your choice. I only push people away from getting screwed by companies and doing bad/risky things. Otherwise, it's up to the person to decide what's best for their desires and needs.

Good Luck!

streetyme said:

Joe you certainly have some nice rides. Here is one of my 86

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A vert! ME LIKE!!
Okay, after an emergency meeting, it's been decided it's okay for you to be called Joe and have an '86 Vert.

Four Eyes RULE!

93 LX said:

check your motor mounts. Ill be willing to bet they have collapsed and allowing the engine to set lower in the valley.

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If it's not that they're collapsed, it could be that your engine isn't seated right in the K member and the engine itself is sitting too far to one side. That's my problem right now...i put new mounts in and i've tried my ass off to straighten it up but can't seem to get it right.

I equals on my 87 an liked them. no clearance issues there. you might be able to get some grade 8 washers to slip on the motor mount an gain a little clearance there.

lang williams said:

I equals on my 87 an liked them. no clearance issues there. you might be able to get some grade 8 washers to slip on the motor mount an gain a little clearance there.

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That's probably what i'm going to have to do. With mine, the engine is basically sitting high on the driver's side. The problem is that the mount won't go any lower than it is. I loosened the passenger side and lifted it up and tightened it down while it was lifted up and that solved the problem for about a week and then i guess it slid back down because it's hitting again. I'm using '93 vert mounts so maybe there's an issue with those on an '85 K member. I'm either going solid or making a steel shim to slide in on the passenger side.