My car would not run once it hit running temp. After going through the "cranks but no start" checklist, I narrowed down the issue to a bad PIP sensor. After starting the car, it ran very bad. I bought and installed a new distributor. I verified the timing with SPOUT removed. I ran the codes and received a 18. The cylinder balance test came back clean.
I used the troubleshooting steps outlined below for the 18 error code. From the computer side of the SPOUT connector to pin 36(yellow/lt green wire), I have 0.0 Ohms. When testing the SPOUT itself, I have 0.0 ohms. When I measure the resistance between the body ground and pin 36 (yellow/lt green wire), I get 17.6 Ohms; steps call for "infinite" open circuit. Would 17.6 Ohms be considered "infinite"? I see 17.6 Ohms as a problem; I would expect "infinite" to read as though the two leads on my DVM do not come in contact. My digital meter shows an "L" when the two leads do not come in contact. Based on this, I thought I would see "L" when touching the body ground and pin 36 wire rather than 17.6 Ohms... Am I wrong here?
I'm trying to figure out if I have a wiring issue, or if the new distributor is bad. I did not have the code 18 prior to changing the distributer.
Any thoughts/advice?
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Code 18 - SPOUT out or wiring fault - look missing SPOUT jumper, short to ground or open circuit in SPOUT wiring going back to the computer. Possible bad TFI.
The SPOUT enables the distributor to advance the timing beyond the base setting. Without a working SPOUT, you are locked down to the timing you set with the timing light.
Checking the SPOUT wiring
Tools needed:
DVM or Ohmmeter
10 MM wrench
Phillips screwdriver.
6 ft 16 or 18 gauge jumper wire with alligator clips on each end.
Anytime you make resistance checks, the circuit under test must not be powered on. If it is powered up during the test, your readings will be wrong and you may damage the meter. Do not touch the probe tips when making resistance measurements. If you do, your readings may be inaccurate.
Remove the SPOUT connector from the ignition harness by the distributor. Remove the passenger side kick panel and loosen the 10 MM bolt that secures the computer wiring connector. Use your DVM to measure the resistance between ground and pin 38 (yellow/lt green wire): you should see and infinite open circuit. Keep the DVM connected to pin 38 (you may need a helper at this point). Insert the DVM lead you previously had connected to the body ground into the computer side of the SPOUT connector. You may need some extra wire to extend the test lead, so have some 16-18 gauge insulated wire handy. If you extend the test lead, remember that the quality of the connections may affect your readings. You should see less than 2.0 Ohms: more than that indicates a wiring problem
I used the troubleshooting steps outlined below for the 18 error code. From the computer side of the SPOUT connector to pin 36(yellow/lt green wire), I have 0.0 Ohms. When testing the SPOUT itself, I have 0.0 ohms. When I measure the resistance between the body ground and pin 36 (yellow/lt green wire), I get 17.6 Ohms; steps call for "infinite" open circuit. Would 17.6 Ohms be considered "infinite"? I see 17.6 Ohms as a problem; I would expect "infinite" to read as though the two leads on my DVM do not come in contact. My digital meter shows an "L" when the two leads do not come in contact. Based on this, I thought I would see "L" when touching the body ground and pin 36 wire rather than 17.6 Ohms... Am I wrong here?
I'm trying to figure out if I have a wiring issue, or if the new distributor is bad. I did not have the code 18 prior to changing the distributer.
Any thoughts/advice?
------
Code 18 - SPOUT out or wiring fault - look missing SPOUT jumper, short to ground or open circuit in SPOUT wiring going back to the computer. Possible bad TFI.
The SPOUT enables the distributor to advance the timing beyond the base setting. Without a working SPOUT, you are locked down to the timing you set with the timing light.
Checking the SPOUT wiring
Tools needed:
DVM or Ohmmeter
10 MM wrench
Phillips screwdriver.
6 ft 16 or 18 gauge jumper wire with alligator clips on each end.
Anytime you make resistance checks, the circuit under test must not be powered on. If it is powered up during the test, your readings will be wrong and you may damage the meter. Do not touch the probe tips when making resistance measurements. If you do, your readings may be inaccurate.
Remove the SPOUT connector from the ignition harness by the distributor. Remove the passenger side kick panel and loosen the 10 MM bolt that secures the computer wiring connector. Use your DVM to measure the resistance between ground and pin 38 (yellow/lt green wire): you should see and infinite open circuit. Keep the DVM connected to pin 38 (you may need a helper at this point). Insert the DVM lead you previously had connected to the body ground into the computer side of the SPOUT connector. You may need some extra wire to extend the test lead, so have some 16-18 gauge insulated wire handy. If you extend the test lead, remember that the quality of the connections may affect your readings. You should see less than 2.0 Ohms: more than that indicates a wiring problem
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