- continuing from the other post... once the area is cleaned and deburred you can go ahead and press it in with the EVM press they sell... i had an issue because i didt have a dremel to make things easy so i had a LOT of force aganst it all keeping me from geting a smooth opening. sooo what i ran into was one of the nuts that goes on the threaded rod stripped out and forced me to improvise... with a set of 3 grade 5 bolts stepping down in length (grade 5 only have part threaded bolts, not full lenth thread) and a grde 5 nut. it made it imposible to mess the bolt and nut... however now the larger plate now starts to bend when i get all the force needed to wrench down the slugs into the ear. its not all bad, but with the bending back plate you have to realise that it will not snug up tight as it is supose to. so now once its tight down as posible you will need to remove the press and lube the edges and hammerit in to be flush with the back. remember it will be flush to the back side of the ear. and stick out on the front by about 1/4" or so.
2.2 With the slugs pressed in, place the rear cradle onto the rear differential. The fit of the cradle should be slightly snug. As you are installing the rear cradle, make sure the holes in thecradle mounting ears are lined up with the thru holes in the steel “slugs” you installed in step 2.1 [Figure 2.0]. If you have difficulty installing bolts thru both mounting ears, remove cradleand file holes in cradle or slugs until you have achieved desired clearance for bolts tobe installed [Figure 2.1]. Once the cradle has been fit, remove cradle from differential.
- this is a prety strait forward step. just come strait down and it shouldline up fine. run the bolts throug hte holes to make sure you didnt get a messed up bracket. then remove it.
2a.4 Using the supplied (2) 5/16" x 1" bolts, (2) nuts and (4) 7/8" large washers, loose assemble the differential cover bracket to rear cradle. Screw the nuts on just enough to capture a thread so that they will not spin off. You will need as much free play as you can get to install the rear cradle/differential bracket assembly to rear differential [Figure 2.2].
- i made this mistake because i was not paying atention... you are given 3 1" bolts and 2 3/4" bolts... the 3/4" bolts go into the differential, not connecting the brackets.
2a.5 Remove the 3 upper rear axle cover bolts and install the rear cradle/differential cover adapter bracket assembly using the supplied (2) 5/16" x 3/4" and (1) 5/16" x 1" bolts and washers. Loose install the differential adapter bracket to the rear differential cover. The 1” fastener will be used in the center hole, while the 3/4” fasteners will be used on the outboard holes. [Figure 2.3].
- straint and simple... almost no way to go wrong here...
2a.6 With the cradle loosely installed you can now final torque the cradle using the tightening sequence below, and remember to first snug the fasteners in sequence. Torque the differential cover fasteners to the manufacturers specifications and the bracket fasteners to 30 lb-ft. Torque the rear cradle to differential fasteners to 85 lb-ft. If you have an Aluminum Axle Cover, you will need to install longer 5/16” bolts (not supplied).
- no issues, cake.
3.1 First, install one of the rod ends onto the front cradle. You will need to complete this step now; otherwise, you will have trouble installing the rod end bolt with the cradle installed. Refer to Figure 3.0 on the next page for the fastener stack-up [Figure 3.0, next page].
- this really was a moot point or me as it came assembld for me... so i didnt have anything to do here.
3.2 Next, drill out the upper control arm mounting holes slightly to allow for the clearance and installation of a ½" bolt. You may need to round out the outboard holes a little more if you opt for the double shear attachment. [Figure 3.1].
- i didnt do any drilling here... and honestly i would reevaluate how i handled this section. if it was me i would round out the inner most hole on the uca mount, then open up the outer one a good bit overall.. maybe even go up a size in general on the outter and compensate with using a wider rim washer. also in this step i would go ahead and install the double sheer system NOW. they tell you to do it later on in the install... however nice that may be, my rods moved and would NOT allow me to get the bolt back in there.. after a load of prying and whatnot i managed to get the short bolt back in.... do the souble sheer NOW!
3.3 Trial fit cradle into position, such that the threaded ends line up with the UCA mounts, and the "hoop" of the cradle is oriented into the driveshaft tunnel. When properly oriented, thehole in the side plate of the cradle will be on the driver side [Figure 3.2].
- when lining it up i found it a lot easier to do the passenger side first. i dont know if other years differ from mine, however i had a bit of piping running on the right side and i was ble to use that as a suport to make the right tube line up pretty quick. that made it easier to get the left side once the other was in. they say tighten it down... however i found it easier to tighten it down then back it off 1/4-1/2 turn toalow for a little play and slack in the movement of the other side bar end... again do the doube sheer NOW whatever it takes.... do it now!
3.4 With the front cradle in position as shown [Figure 3.2], hold the cradle into position on the upper control arm brackets (an extra pair of hands may come in handy here). Install the 3/16" thick washers/sleeves between the cradle and the upper control arm brackets on each side [Figure 3.3].
- i had no isses with the spacers getting into position.... and sorry i kinda lobed thi step into the last two.. my bad.
3.5 Install the supplied ½" x 1 1/4" " bolt into the inboard side of the UCA brackets and tighten [Figure 3.4]. If you have trouble lining up the bolt with the tapped hole in the end of the front cradle, you may need to further enlarge the UCA bracket hole. Do not enlarge the hole too much, and make sure you install a washer between UCA bracket and bolt head. Be careful not to cross-thread when tightening.
- again do the double sheer now, regardles of what they say.. and again sorry i lumped some instructions from here in the last couple.
3.6 With the UCA mounts tight, mark the transmission tunnel on both sides, such that the marks align with the centerline of the forward cradle tube [Figure 3.7].
- i just eyeballed it and was almost perfect.. another suggestion would be to measure the width of the tunnel and drop in a bolt into the hole just a lil shorter then the tunnel width and use that as a guide.
3.7 With the tunnel marked, center punch and drill a 1/8” pilot hole from under body side. You may need to drop the cradle in order to get the drill up there.
3.8 Drill ¼" hole thru hole from passenger compartment side, then follow up with 5/8" drill (use a 5/8" because of the angle of the floor) [Figure 3.8].
- i lumped both together here as i dont think they really deserved seperate steps... pretty simple i you do fab work an if you have instaled the pre requisite of the PHB or watts link.
3.9 From the inside of the vehicle, push the thru-bolt through the tunnel and front cradle tube. If the bolt does not fit through both sides of the tunnel and the cradle tube you may need to enlarge the holes in the tunnel slightly [Figure 3.9].
3.10 Leave the thru-bolt in place for now.
- no complaints here
3.11 Using the supplied u-bolts, put a "dab" of grease onto the tip of each thread, to help mark the floorpan. Install the u-bolts onto the cradle tube and press the u-bolt against the floor pan.
- grease would work, however its dark back there and it was rainy out so i had minor light on this step... i used the castrol hand cleaner.... its thick and white.. stayed on the metal and was highly visable... you will se the doubled areas... its retty much the bent part of the uca brackets.
3.12 With the floor marked, remove the cradle from the vehicle. Once the cradle is removed, it’s time to drill out the u-bolt holes you just marked. Use a 3/8” drill bit to create the holes. Then verify the ubolts fit through the holes.
- no complaints here
3.13 With the front cradle removed from vehicle, Have an assistant hold the floorpan reinforcement plates into position as shown [Figure 3.11]. The plates should be flush with the floor at all points. If the plates are not flush, bend them into place before marking/drilling any holes.
- i had no way of bending them.... i had a loose vice... and no matter how much i torched the bends i couldnt get enough torque on it to bend it more... so i was sol on this one...
3.14 From the underbody of the vehicle, mark the u-bolt holes and tunnel thru bolt holes onto the reinforcement plates.
-i used tape to hold them in plcae while i marked them.... another person would come in handy here.
3.15 Remove the plates. You will now drill the holes in the plates. Use a 3/8” drill bit to create the holes for the u-bolts and a 5/8” drill for the tunnel thru bolt [Figure 3.12].
- no complaints here... this section went prett fast
3.16 With the holes drilled, trial fit the reinforcement plates and make sure that all the holes line up; if not, modify plates until the proper alignment is achieved.
- mine lined up nicely... or some reason i've had great luck with drilling.
3.18 Install the u-bolt over the cradle tube, then install the proper shims and push the u-bolt through the shim(s), the floor pan and finally the reinforcement plate on the inside of vehicle [Figure 3.13].
- for me the largest one was neded on the left side, thinnest on the right.. looking bak on it, i would have done the second and third smallest together on the left and the smallest on the right... YMMV
3.19 After the u-bolt is installed, loose Install the nuts and washers onto the u-bolts.
3.20 Repeat Sections 3.18 - 3.20 for other side.
- simple enough
3.21 To begin finalizing the front cradle installation, trim the underbody tapered spacers to fit, making sure the angled face of the spacer is flush with the transmission tunnel. There are a total of two spacers and two washers. When trimming the spacers be sure to take into consideration the thickness of the washer. Trim the spacers from the flat end, the spacers to be trimmed are the spacers that are 1 ¼" tall on the short side. The smaller angled spacers will be used inside the vehicle where length is not as crucial. [Figure 3.14].
- i had to trim the drivers side one and actually purchase some grade 8 washers to act as spacers for the passenger side. be ready to buy some washers and the likes if need.... or get them ahead of time.
3.22 To install the thru-bolt refer to Figures 3.15 - 3.16
- shortened to save space... fairly simple. you might need someone here to push the bolt in as you line up spacers/washers on the under side. it was hela tricky doing it solo... just a lot of patience and liberal use of blue tack compount to hold things in place while i got inside the car to push the rod further.
3.23 To finalize the front cradle installation, tighten the fasteners in the following order:
- if it was me you would be done with the front cradle here... you would ahve already dont the double sheer and now can just hook it up and start the process of putting everything back together.
time for a new post....
2.2 With the slugs pressed in, place the rear cradle onto the rear differential. The fit of the cradle should be slightly snug. As you are installing the rear cradle, make sure the holes in thecradle mounting ears are lined up with the thru holes in the steel “slugs” you installed in step 2.1 [Figure 2.0]. If you have difficulty installing bolts thru both mounting ears, remove cradleand file holes in cradle or slugs until you have achieved desired clearance for bolts tobe installed [Figure 2.1]. Once the cradle has been fit, remove cradle from differential.
- this is a prety strait forward step. just come strait down and it shouldline up fine. run the bolts throug hte holes to make sure you didnt get a messed up bracket. then remove it.
2a.4 Using the supplied (2) 5/16" x 1" bolts, (2) nuts and (4) 7/8" large washers, loose assemble the differential cover bracket to rear cradle. Screw the nuts on just enough to capture a thread so that they will not spin off. You will need as much free play as you can get to install the rear cradle/differential bracket assembly to rear differential [Figure 2.2].
- i made this mistake because i was not paying atention... you are given 3 1" bolts and 2 3/4" bolts... the 3/4" bolts go into the differential, not connecting the brackets.
2a.5 Remove the 3 upper rear axle cover bolts and install the rear cradle/differential cover adapter bracket assembly using the supplied (2) 5/16" x 3/4" and (1) 5/16" x 1" bolts and washers. Loose install the differential adapter bracket to the rear differential cover. The 1” fastener will be used in the center hole, while the 3/4” fasteners will be used on the outboard holes. [Figure 2.3].
- straint and simple... almost no way to go wrong here...
2a.6 With the cradle loosely installed you can now final torque the cradle using the tightening sequence below, and remember to first snug the fasteners in sequence. Torque the differential cover fasteners to the manufacturers specifications and the bracket fasteners to 30 lb-ft. Torque the rear cradle to differential fasteners to 85 lb-ft. If you have an Aluminum Axle Cover, you will need to install longer 5/16” bolts (not supplied).
- no issues, cake.
3.1 First, install one of the rod ends onto the front cradle. You will need to complete this step now; otherwise, you will have trouble installing the rod end bolt with the cradle installed. Refer to Figure 3.0 on the next page for the fastener stack-up [Figure 3.0, next page].
- this really was a moot point or me as it came assembld for me... so i didnt have anything to do here.
3.2 Next, drill out the upper control arm mounting holes slightly to allow for the clearance and installation of a ½" bolt. You may need to round out the outboard holes a little more if you opt for the double shear attachment. [Figure 3.1].
- i didnt do any drilling here... and honestly i would reevaluate how i handled this section. if it was me i would round out the inner most hole on the uca mount, then open up the outer one a good bit overall.. maybe even go up a size in general on the outter and compensate with using a wider rim washer. also in this step i would go ahead and install the double sheer system NOW. they tell you to do it later on in the install... however nice that may be, my rods moved and would NOT allow me to get the bolt back in there.. after a load of prying and whatnot i managed to get the short bolt back in.... do the souble sheer NOW!
3.3 Trial fit cradle into position, such that the threaded ends line up with the UCA mounts, and the "hoop" of the cradle is oriented into the driveshaft tunnel. When properly oriented, thehole in the side plate of the cradle will be on the driver side [Figure 3.2].
- when lining it up i found it a lot easier to do the passenger side first. i dont know if other years differ from mine, however i had a bit of piping running on the right side and i was ble to use that as a suport to make the right tube line up pretty quick. that made it easier to get the left side once the other was in. they say tighten it down... however i found it easier to tighten it down then back it off 1/4-1/2 turn toalow for a little play and slack in the movement of the other side bar end... again do the doube sheer NOW whatever it takes.... do it now!
3.4 With the front cradle in position as shown [Figure 3.2], hold the cradle into position on the upper control arm brackets (an extra pair of hands may come in handy here). Install the 3/16" thick washers/sleeves between the cradle and the upper control arm brackets on each side [Figure 3.3].
- i had no isses with the spacers getting into position.... and sorry i kinda lobed thi step into the last two.. my bad.
3.5 Install the supplied ½" x 1 1/4" " bolt into the inboard side of the UCA brackets and tighten [Figure 3.4]. If you have trouble lining up the bolt with the tapped hole in the end of the front cradle, you may need to further enlarge the UCA bracket hole. Do not enlarge the hole too much, and make sure you install a washer between UCA bracket and bolt head. Be careful not to cross-thread when tightening.
- again do the double sheer now, regardles of what they say.. and again sorry i lumped some instructions from here in the last couple.
3.6 With the UCA mounts tight, mark the transmission tunnel on both sides, such that the marks align with the centerline of the forward cradle tube [Figure 3.7].
- i just eyeballed it and was almost perfect.. another suggestion would be to measure the width of the tunnel and drop in a bolt into the hole just a lil shorter then the tunnel width and use that as a guide.
3.7 With the tunnel marked, center punch and drill a 1/8” pilot hole from under body side. You may need to drop the cradle in order to get the drill up there.
3.8 Drill ¼" hole thru hole from passenger compartment side, then follow up with 5/8" drill (use a 5/8" because of the angle of the floor) [Figure 3.8].
- i lumped both together here as i dont think they really deserved seperate steps... pretty simple i you do fab work an if you have instaled the pre requisite of the PHB or watts link.
3.9 From the inside of the vehicle, push the thru-bolt through the tunnel and front cradle tube. If the bolt does not fit through both sides of the tunnel and the cradle tube you may need to enlarge the holes in the tunnel slightly [Figure 3.9].
3.10 Leave the thru-bolt in place for now.
- no complaints here
3.11 Using the supplied u-bolts, put a "dab" of grease onto the tip of each thread, to help mark the floorpan. Install the u-bolts onto the cradle tube and press the u-bolt against the floor pan.
- grease would work, however its dark back there and it was rainy out so i had minor light on this step... i used the castrol hand cleaner.... its thick and white.. stayed on the metal and was highly visable... you will se the doubled areas... its retty much the bent part of the uca brackets.
3.12 With the floor marked, remove the cradle from the vehicle. Once the cradle is removed, it’s time to drill out the u-bolt holes you just marked. Use a 3/8” drill bit to create the holes. Then verify the ubolts fit through the holes.
- no complaints here
3.13 With the front cradle removed from vehicle, Have an assistant hold the floorpan reinforcement plates into position as shown [Figure 3.11]. The plates should be flush with the floor at all points. If the plates are not flush, bend them into place before marking/drilling any holes.
- i had no way of bending them.... i had a loose vice... and no matter how much i torched the bends i couldnt get enough torque on it to bend it more... so i was sol on this one...
3.14 From the underbody of the vehicle, mark the u-bolt holes and tunnel thru bolt holes onto the reinforcement plates.
-i used tape to hold them in plcae while i marked them.... another person would come in handy here.
3.15 Remove the plates. You will now drill the holes in the plates. Use a 3/8” drill bit to create the holes for the u-bolts and a 5/8” drill for the tunnel thru bolt [Figure 3.12].
- no complaints here... this section went prett fast
3.16 With the holes drilled, trial fit the reinforcement plates and make sure that all the holes line up; if not, modify plates until the proper alignment is achieved.
- mine lined up nicely... or some reason i've had great luck with drilling.
3.18 Install the u-bolt over the cradle tube, then install the proper shims and push the u-bolt through the shim(s), the floor pan and finally the reinforcement plate on the inside of vehicle [Figure 3.13].
- for me the largest one was neded on the left side, thinnest on the right.. looking bak on it, i would have done the second and third smallest together on the left and the smallest on the right... YMMV
3.19 After the u-bolt is installed, loose Install the nuts and washers onto the u-bolts.
3.20 Repeat Sections 3.18 - 3.20 for other side.
- simple enough
3.21 To begin finalizing the front cradle installation, trim the underbody tapered spacers to fit, making sure the angled face of the spacer is flush with the transmission tunnel. There are a total of two spacers and two washers. When trimming the spacers be sure to take into consideration the thickness of the washer. Trim the spacers from the flat end, the spacers to be trimmed are the spacers that are 1 ¼" tall on the short side. The smaller angled spacers will be used inside the vehicle where length is not as crucial. [Figure 3.14].
- i had to trim the drivers side one and actually purchase some grade 8 washers to act as spacers for the passenger side. be ready to buy some washers and the likes if need.... or get them ahead of time.
3.22 To install the thru-bolt refer to Figures 3.15 - 3.16
- shortened to save space... fairly simple. you might need someone here to push the bolt in as you line up spacers/washers on the under side. it was hela tricky doing it solo... just a lot of patience and liberal use of blue tack compount to hold things in place while i got inside the car to push the rod further.
3.23 To finalize the front cradle installation, tighten the fasteners in the following order:
- if it was me you would be done with the front cradle here... you would ahve already dont the double sheer and now can just hook it up and start the process of putting everything back together.
time for a new post....