Exhaust Question

The only other thing you need to change is the mufflers and that is based on sound preference. I have the same setup as you with Borla mufflers. I have been told that if not going with long tubes then replacing the stock headers is a waste of time.

If you are going to weigh getting headers vs. not, these need to be considered. The cost of the headers and the replacement mid-pipe? Are the headers necessary to your goals (other words, what are your goals)? How patient a person are you (because they are really involved to install yourself)?

The cost aspect is pretty much up to you.

Depending on your existing mods you can expect around 10 to 15 rwhp on a stock to bolt on car, more on a blower car. Maybe you can find that power an easier way.

If you want to keep your sanity, the install will involve removing most the front suspension, dropping the k member (a lot of people replace it with a lightweight tubular K member, yay more $$$$$), using a engine brace to hold the engine in place (got to buy an engine brace, yay more $$$), bolting the headers on (they will fight you the entire way), putting everything back together and hoping the headers clear the motor mounts, k member, steering shaft, etc. Then hopefully its all back together and happy, fire the engine to check for leaks (there will be leaks). Try to torque everything down until it seals (super pissed by the 3rd time it won't seal, takes many more attempts). Then once they are on, sealed, and happy in their new home, slowly drive it to the dyno because longtubes pretty much require a tune (yay more $$$). Don't chance the engine going lean, cuz long tubes do move that much more air.

Headers aren't just a weekend mod. They are a right of passage. You are a bolt-on Bruce Lee if you install your own headers in your driveway or garage, on your back, with no lift.

As negative as this all sounds, I'm not trying to turn you off of headers. Just be prepared its expensive, takes Shaolin amounts of patients and determination, there are mediocre power rewards. Also, the process is the same whether you do shorties, mid lengths, or long tubes. So if your going to do it and don't have to worry about emissions tests, go for the long tubes.

I pulled my motor from the top without the trans just test fitted motor with long tubes bolted on slid right in had to remove steering shaft but took the motor out for a rebuild. headers are all torque down stage 8 bolts with lock tabs and can still get trans in. 03 Torch Red Mach 1

Mac ceramic coated long tubes and lethal performance catted x ran me about 980 with shipping but I can do my own work.

I will personally +1 to the difficulty of installing long tubes. I'm currently mid PI an LT swap and just finished with the LT portion. The power is worth it in the end while you're in there you'll be deleting your cats as well so you'll see additional increases. IMHO short tubes, shorties, or whatever you want to call them aren't worth the money as you'll see little to no gains. They're better than the garbage restrictive stock manifolds but not worth the cost. I got a pair of Dougs LT ceramic coated headers for $400 and I believe they'll be worth every penny.