Experience installing Steeda Sport Springs

apk1971 · Aug 10, 2004

I have to say, this was much easier than I initially thought it would be...

I have an '03 vert and bought a set of Steeda Sport Springs. In total, the install took a little over 3 hours at home. (Dad is a retired mechanic by trade, so access to tools and experience helps).

We looked at 2 sets of install instructions:

1 - http://www.stangnet.com/tech/spring.html

2 - http://www.mustangworld.com/ourpics/fcar/steedaspring1.htm

We opted for number 2 because the instruction in option 1 seemed much more involved, especially the rears. (Not sure if that is due to the install being on a 99 HT?)

We started with the fronts. When pulling the factory springs out and found that the right side spring was installed 1/4 turn off from the factory. Also, the C/C plate rivets were not attached correctly.

The left rear spring isolator was not istalled right either from the factory. The spring was rubbing and turned out to be a source of one of my myterious noises.

I did not do new bushings, shocks/struts or C/C plates at this time, mainly due to the lack of extra funds right now.

In all it was an easy install and I highly recommend these springs. The look and feel great. I have before pics on my CarDomain site but still need to do my after pics. They are on page 3.

Let me know what questions you may have...

Cheers!!!

DJsZincGT · Aug 10, 2004

apk1971 said:
I have to say, this was much easier than I initially thought it would be...

I have an '03 vert and bought a set of Steeda Sport Springs. In total, the install took a little over 3 hours at home. (Dad is a retired mechanic by trade, so access to tools and experience helps).

We looked at 2 sets of install instructions:

1 - http://www.stangnet.com/tech/spring.html

2 - http://www.mustangworld.com/ourpics/fcar/steedaspring1.htm

We opted for number 2 because the instruction in option 1 seemed much more involved, especially the rears. (Not sure if that is due to the install being on a 99 HT?)

We started with the fronts. When pulling the factory springs out and found that the right side spring was installed 1/4 turn off from the factory. Also, the C/C plate rivets were not attached correctly.

The left rear spring isolator was not istalled right either from the factory. The spring was rubbing and turned out to be a source of one of my myterious noises.

I did not do new bushings, shocks/struts or C/C plates at this time, mainly due to the lack of extra funds right now.

In all it was an easy install and I highly recommend these springs. The look and feel great. I have before pics on my CarDomain site but still need to do my after pics. They are on page 3.

Let me know what questions you may have...

Cheers!!!

I don't have a question for you, but I do have a recommendation. Get C/C plates as soon as possible. The Steeda Sport Springs are going to cause the insides of the tires to go bald on the front without C/C plates even after alignment. I recommend the MM C/C plates.

98SteedaStang · Aug 10, 2004

I used the Mustang World write up too. Did you have any probs with the rears. I couldnt get the bolt for the lower control arm to line up properly, it was a PITA, but I eventually got it. I was worried about the fronts and they ended up being easy!

millatime · Aug 10, 2004

98SteedaStang said:
I used the Mustang World write up too. Did you have any probs with the rears. I couldnt get the bolt for the lower control arm to line up properly, it was a PITA, but I eventually got it. I was worried about the fronts and they ended up being easy!

This seems to be a pretty common problem...the axle shifts somehow and I still haven't figured out what I am doing wrong. I have the car jacked up and on framestands just like all the directions say, but somehow the axle keeps shifting. It gets really agrevating, but I guess thats what we have to do without a lift.

apk1971 · Aug 10, 2004

DJsZincGT - Thanks for the info. I was under the understanding from posts on this board that C/C plates were NOT needed with these springs. I was planning on doing them anyway, but now am interested if anyone else had/has this problem...

98SteedaStang - We did not unbolt the lower control arm. Only the quad shock and main shock. And we did not have a problem with the axel shifting.

What we did:

1 - Jack up the rear by the rear axel (in front of the diff plate)
2 - Jack stands under the sub frame (for safety only)
3 - Remove tire
4 - Remove rear quad shock bolt
5 - Remove lower shock bolt
6 - Lower rear end
7 - pry out spring with pry bar and replace new one (switching isolators also)
8 - Raise rear end
9 - Reattach shock bolt
10 - Reattach quad shock bolt
11 - Replace tire
12 - Remove jack stands
13 - Lower car

Like I said, it was real simple. No issues...

Tylerb59 · Aug 10, 2004

Would you still have to pry it out if you had spring compressors?

apk1971 · Aug 10, 2004

Tylerb59 said:
Would you still have to pry it out if you had spring compressors?

No - but if you do not have a spring compressor, you do not need one. It took a little effort to pop out, mainly because of the rubber isolators. Popping the new ones in, I would suggest using some silicone spray to slide the isolators in. We did and it made it that much easier.

millatime · Aug 10, 2004

I am now trying to replace the lca's and uca's, so needless to say I cannot go any other route than to drop the lca's

03gtstangguy · Aug 10, 2004

Does Ford Racing Springs have the same result as the Steeda Springs...that is wearing the inside of the tires?

98SteedaStang · Aug 10, 2004

My tires are ok. No unusual wear, except for the rears, I cant seem to figure that one out though?

CottonBurnerz · Aug 10, 2004

when i go for an alignment after my steeda springs were installed.. they couldn't do it. you definately need c/c plate.

apk1971 · Aug 17, 2004

Update: I posted new pictures of the lowered car on page 3... Please check them out and let me know what you think...

Cheers...

DJsZincGT · Aug 18, 2004

millatime said:
I am now trying to replace the lca's and uca's, so needless to say I cannot go any other route than to drop the lca's

With the rear end on the jack stands alone you are correct, the rear end will shift. I did mine a little different and got the front and back done in just under two hours. For the rears I didn't put the jack stands under the rear end. I put them under the frame rails. Then I placed one jack under the control arm where it connects to the rear end, took the bolt out and lowered the jack until the spring was free. Of course the rear end shifted when I did that. I replaced the spring and started jacking the control arm back up and of course it didn't line up so I placed another jack under the rear end directly under the pinion gear and jacked it up which rotated the rear end until the bolt hole lined up. Doing it that way made it easy. The first time I did a Mustang it took me a while to figure it out, but now I can nearly do it in my sleep.

GTsleeper · Aug 18, 2004

Nice look, I have been thinking on what springs to get as well. But I like the aggresive look that Steeda gave your car. How is it handling rough, or average.

apk1971 · Aug 18, 2004

GTsleeper said:
Nice look, I have been thinking on what springs to get as well. But I like the aggresive look that Steeda gave your car. How is it handling rough, or average.

IMO - It stiffened the car, but it is not un-bearable / rough. I like the way it rides and it feels like it corners better. It is a solid ride. I would not call it rough. Hope that helps...

JeepXJ · Aug 18, 2004

cc plates

DJsZincGT said:
I don't have a question for you, but I do have a recommendation. Get C/C plates as soon as possible. The Steeda Sport Springs are going to cause the insides of the tires to go bald on the front without C/C plates even after alignment. I recommend the MM C/C plates.

You need to find someone that knows the ins and outs of aligning a car.
I didn't use Cc plates with Eibach sportlines. The first align I got was at NTB, had a lot of negative camber, tires went fast. Second was at a friends shop by someone who knew what they were doing. Tires are wearing evenly now - 6k miles and counting.

rpburnette · Aug 18, 2004

I am planning on installing a set of Steeda sport springs this weekend, along with new struts/shocks, and new CC plates. I figured I needed to get it aligned afterwards, but I have heard it takes a couple of weeks for the springs to settle in. Do I need to wait a couple of weeks before the alignment, or can I get one as soon as I get the install done. Also, where is a good place to get alignments done in Raleigh, NC.

Thanks

apk1971 · Aug 18, 2004

rpburnette said:
I am planning on installing a set of Steeda sport springs this weekend, along with new struts/shocks, and new CC plates. I figured I needed to get it aligned afterwards, but I have heard it takes a couple of weeks for the springs to settle in. Do I need to wait a couple of weeks before the alignment, or can I get one as soon as I get the install done. Also, where is a good place to get alignments done in Raleigh, NC.

Thanks

The estinmate I heard and am waiting on is 2 weeks... Can't help with the NC location, but definately ask around and go to an experienced place. Preferable some place that does all types of suspension work including spring replacement, shock and strut replacement and alignments...

Cheers...

Experience installing Steeda Sport Springs

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