Explorer Rearend

golf4283

Active Member

May 30, 2003

1,253

1

39

Orland Park, Illinois

Dec 10, 2003

#1

• Dec 10, 2003

• #1

Ok, so I have my rear-end and I am going to take it to the shop to have it cut down and the perches moved for use in my 1966 coupe. Could someone who has done the swap or knows about it tell me how much to cut off which side and how far to put the perches in order for it to fit. I know D.Hearne that you did this swap. If you could give me some help here that would be great becuase it would be easier to tell the people that will do the work what I want exactly than have them guess at it.

 

allcarfan

The Answer Man

Founding Member

Apr 8, 2001

2,458

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56

North Atlanta

Dec 10, 2003

#2

• Dec 10, 2003

• #2

cant you take the measurements from your stock rearend?

 

D

D.Hearne

New Member

Sep 29, 2000

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south louisiana

Dec 10, 2003

#3

• Dec 10, 2003

• #3

The Explorer rear I narrowed went into my 89 Ranger. Just measure the distance from center to center between the spring perches on your Stang ( I think they're 43" but not sure) If you're gonna just narrow the one side then the other needs to be exactly the same in dimensions. Also make sure the Explorer rear will be wide enough after narrowing 4" ( I assume you want the pinion centered) to mount the spring perches the distance they need to be apart to fit your Stang. The spring perch's angle also needs to match your Stangs rear too, to keep the pinion angle correct. Some guys who do narrowed rears will also build into the pinion angle to compensate for its movement when the gas is nailed. If the guy who does yours does it like the guy who did mine, you're gonna need both axles there so he can fit them.

 

golf4283

Active Member

May 30, 2003

1,253

1

39

Orland Park, Illinois

Dec 10, 2003

#4

• Dec 10, 2003

• #4

Well I thought I read somewhere that since the pinion is offcentered then I could just shorten one side and it will line up correctly?? I also thought that the explorer rear-end was 2 inches longer than what I need so I just cut 2 inches off of one of the sides. I will have to look around some more.

 

6

68DARKHORSE

New Member

Oct 9, 2003

109

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0

Austin, Tx.

Dec 10, 2003

#5

• Dec 10, 2003

• #5

The pinion is 4" to the right of center.
The left axle is 3" longer than the right axle. Cutting 3" off of the long side will still leave the pinion 1" to the right.

Bring both axles that you intend to use so it can be mocked up.

Note: Expy axles on left, and Fox Mustang axles on right.

 

allcarfan

The Answer Man

Founding Member

Apr 8, 2001

2,458

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56

North Atlanta

Dec 10, 2003

#6

• Dec 10, 2003

• #6

sounds like a lot of work...PLEASE keep us all posted.

 

9

96 DOHC Cobra

Founding Member

Oct 14, 2001

542

0

16

Cerritos, CA

Dec 13, 2003

#7

• Dec 13, 2003

• #7

I'd like to try the same thing. The hardest part for me seems to be finding a shop that will shorten the one side of the housing. The places I've checked with all want upwards of $200. They won't just shorten one side. They "require" straightening the housing (even if it doesn't need it), and welding on 9" ends. This would also reuire me to have 9" axles shortened to work in it ( another additional cost). Then, weld the spring perches in the Mustang location.

 

golf4283

Active Member

May 30, 2003

1,253

1

39

Orland Park, Illinois

Dec 14, 2003

#8

• Dec 14, 2003

• #8

What is the best way to go about removing all the old rusty crap off of this rear end? I'm using my drill with a wire cup brush and I'm getting nowhere fast.

 

D

D.Hearne

New Member

Sep 29, 2000

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south louisiana

Dec 14, 2003

#9

• Dec 14, 2003

• #9

Other than what you're doin now? Sand blast it, but you'd better pull all the guts afterward to get all the sand out, that stuff gets into everything.

 

golf4283

Active Member

May 30, 2003

1,253

1

39

Orland Park, Illinois

Dec 14, 2003

#10

• Dec 14, 2003

• #10

Would a grinding disc wheel instead of the wire brush be any better?

Update: I'm using a abrasive pad disc now that works pretty well.

 

golf4283

Active Member

May 30, 2003

1,253

1

39

Orland Park, Illinois

Dec 17, 2003

#11

• Dec 17, 2003

• #11

I stopped in at a machine shop near me today and was told a "ballpark" figure of $300-500 for shortening the long side and relocating the perches. Sounds kinda high, eh? Should I keep asking around?

 

D

D.Hearne

New Member

Sep 29, 2000

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south louisiana

Dec 18, 2003

#12

• Dec 18, 2003

• #12

That's way too high------- keep shopping.

 

brianj5600

Active Member

Sep 19, 2003

1,964

2

39

Middle TN

Dec 18, 2003

#13

• Dec 18, 2003

• #13

Try a chassis shop. Or a dirt track shop. make sure they use a jig.

 

66P51GT

New Member

Nov 7, 2003

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Cerritos, CA

Dec 18, 2003

#14

• Dec 18, 2003

• #14

Currie Enterprises posts all of their services pricing. Use this as a reference for your shopping needs.

 

9

96 DOHC Cobra

Founding Member

Oct 14, 2001

542

0

16

Cerritos, CA

Dec 18, 2003

#15

• Dec 18, 2003

• #15

66P51GT said:

Currie Enterprises posts all of their services pricing. Use this as a reference for your shopping needs.

Click to expand...

Currie's was the first place I checked becaause I've done business with them before. The only way they'll shorten a 8.8 is if the onvert the housing to use 9" ends and non C-clip axles.

 

golf4283

Active Member

May 30, 2003

1,253

1

39

Orland Park, Illinois

Dec 18, 2003

#16

• Dec 18, 2003

• #16

Im not going to use currie anyways. I am probably going to be going to check out Strange because its only about an hour away from my house. whereas currie is like 5 states away from my house. Just easier

 

cougar_68

Founding Member

Jun 6, 2001

849

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0

Garrett, IN

Sep 12, 2004

#17

• Sep 12, 2004

• #17

golf4283 said:

Im not going to use currie anyways. I am probably going to be going to check out Strange because its only about an hour away from my house. whereas currie is like 5 states away from my house. Just easier

Click to expand...

Did you do this yet? I got a quote for $50 to shorten the one side. I'm assuming it won't cost much more to move the spring perches.

 

LMan

Founding Member

Aug 10, 2002

1,246

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0

Mom's basement

Sep 12, 2004

#18

• Sep 12, 2004

• #18

just for fun, why are you going to all this trouble to install a 8.8?

 

cougar_68

Founding Member

Jun 6, 2001

849

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0

Garrett, IN

Sep 12, 2004

#19

• Sep 12, 2004

• #19

I had a versailles 9" rearend w/disc brakes. It would have cost me over $1200 to finish it. Parts, such as rotors, pads and calipers are not readilly available and are very expensive when you can find them. It cost nearly $500 for a 9" center section. The emergency brake setup is allso a PITA.

You can buy an explorer 8.8" rear with 31 spline axles, trac-loc, 3.73 or 4.10 gears and disc brakes for $250-$400 and sometimes less, depending on your location. They made a billion of these things so parts are easy to find and inexspensive.

I'm going to see if this rearend will work out ok without shortening it. If not, I already have the short axle and it will only cost about $50 to shorten.

I know an 8.8" isn't as strong as a 9", but I don't think I will see enough power to brake the 8.8" and I'm not running slicks.

 

D

D.Hearne

New Member

Sep 29, 2000

11,730

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south louisiana

Sep 12, 2004

#20

• Sep 12, 2004

• #20

I had an Explorer rear narrowed for my Ranger. Cost me $100 for the rear. Had 3.73's, 31 splined axles, trac-loc. Drum brakes. Had it narrowed both sides to 52" axle to axle. New Strange 31 splined axles w/9" ends.New Summit girdle cover. Cost me altogether $700.