Fan question

[70mustang63b]

I think my fan died, but since I am short on time I was hoping to get some clues from you guys. This past weekend while on the freeway the car's temp went sky high (between the L and the end of the 'normal' range), and I did notice a funky smell. I drove the car to work today (15 minutes each way), and it ran warmer than usual, but never extremely hot, let the car sit and idle when I got home, temp climbed to upper end of normal range, fan never turned on. I later tried turning the blades by hand (car cool, key off) and the blades turn, though not really freely. Does this sound like the fan motor fried? I know there is more work ahead, just trying to see what i'll be in for. Thanks.

 

[Methodical]

If it smelled like burning wires then yeah I'd say its gone.

 

[HISSIN50]

Also check the wiring connector (recall item) and see if it's all burned up.

I might simply run a fused jumper wire from the battery to the fan and see how it runs (or doesnt - do USE that fuse) as a sort of bench test.

AZ sells new motors for 60-70 bucks. As I recall, it should be a Siemen's motor (OEM supplying, Tier-one company).

Good luck Gary.

 

[70mustang63b]

Thanks for the replies. The connector looks good, not fired or anything. This car never got the recall thing done to it regarding the plug thing.
Looks like I will be replacing the fan. Seems pretty straight forward, but is there anything I should look for, or do to make things go easier? Thanks for your help.

 

[SVTCobra306]

Nah, it's really easy. Pull the plastic cover, disconnect the ccrm harness, remove the bracket holding it in place along with the coolant reservoir, and unbolt/remove the fan shroud entirely. the fan is held to the motor by a clip, simply pop the clip off, clean the shaft with a wire brush, and a little motivation from a brass hammer (or block of wood for rednecks like me) will separate them, then it's just a matter of unbolting the old motor and bolting in the new one, then reassemble everything. Took me maybe an hour and a half, with half an hour worth of cleaning stuff while it was apart...

I'd check with the car warm to make sure the fan isn't coming on, and test the wires with a voltmeter for power prior to all the work. You may only need a new ccrm.

 

[Methodical]

Get the Haynes Service Manual or if you can the Ford Manuf. Service Manual.

 

[70mustang63b]

Yup, got the Ford factory manual. I'm gonna go pick up the fan motor from AutoZone tonight and hopefully get it fixed in the next couple of days.

 

[70mustang63b]

Thanks for all your help so far. How and what is the best way to test the CCRM, just in case this might be the problem.
Oh, and would the fan being dead be able to cause the A/C to cut off? I just had the system serviced, but since the fan died, my compressor cycles on and off. Looks like the A/C pressure is somehow connected to the CCRM, so I was thinking both problems are connected.

 

[HISSIN50]

A quick test of the CCRM is to go through the code retrieval process. The computer will cycle each fan speed. In order for each fan speed to engage, the CCRM has to work.
Turn on the Max A/C and see if either fan connector terminal is getting 12 volts (high speed should engage). Or wait till the car reaches about 210*F and see if low speed is on.

If actively wanting to enage fan speeds via the CCRM, providing fused 12 volts to PIN 14 on the CCRM can energize low speed.
Grounding Pin 17 on the CCRM engages high speed. Dont engage both at once.

I see nothing in the schematics to suggest that the AC shuts off when the fan doesnt come on. They way it normally works is that as a car heats up (for any reason), the computer will shut off the AC when an absolute temp is reached (on many cars this happens at about 240*F).

The PCM gets the signal that the AC is on, and the PCM is what decides upon low and high speed coming on. An aside: the default is for low speed to be on - the computer has to actively shut it off. If you unplug the ECT sensor connector, this should make the fan come on, for instance.

This all said, (lookin at components from the other side), the fan is supposed to run on high for 20 seconds after the AC cycles off. So high speed staying on can be dependant upon the AC (staying engaged) but the AC doesnt appear to be dependant upon the fan staying on. If the car is warm enough and the AC stays off for more than 20 seconds, the fan schematics show it toggling from high speed down to low.

Just my random thoughts. Good luck Gary.

 

[mo_dingo]

Thanks for all your help so far. How and what is the best way to test the CCRM, just in case this might be the problem.
Oh, and would the fan being dead be able to cause the A/C to cut off? I just had the system serviced, but since the fan died, my compressor cycles on and off. Looks like the A/C pressure is somehow connected to the CCRM, so I was thinking both problems are connected.

The ccrm controls the field coil and the clutch. If you need a wiring diagram go to http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/#95-95Diagrams.
Scott

 

[SVTCobra306]

Sounding more and more like a bad CCRM to me.. How many miles do you have? they typically die between 95000 and 120000 miles...

You could always find a buddy with a good one and swap to see if stuff starts working again..

When my fan motor went out, it never did quit, the bearings simply went out and got really noisy.

 

[70mustang63b]

The car has 129,000 miles on it. The bearings aren't seized in the fan, I can turn it a little by hand, but it will not free wheel. The fan will not power in either speed, or if the A/C is turned on, the A/C does work a bit, but the clutch cycles. I don't know anybody else with an SN95 Mustang, so I will prob try and test my CCRM and see what happens. Thanks for the help.

 

[Methodical]

The car has 129,000 miles on it. The bearings aren't seized in the fan, I can turn it a little by hand, but it will not free wheel. The fan will not power in either speed, or if the A/C is turned on, the A/C does work a bit, but the clutch cycles. I don't know anybody else with an SN95 Mustang, so I will prob try and test my CCRM and see what happens. Thanks for the help.

If the AC clutch cycles on and off constantly, then you are low on refrigerant. I had mine charged about a year ago and recently discovered that it was empty. My car would not idle when I turned on the AC because the AC clutch kept cycling on and off constantly and wreaking havoc on the EEC. When I charged the system, I found out why the system was empty - the low pressure service port was leaking - hell it was gone - bye bye can of refrigerant mad: ). One thing I noticed is it seems that the ports on my car appear different than what is sold out there. If your service port is leaking just go by a recharge/conversion kit (about $40) and it has the service ports in them along with 3 large cans of R134a.

 

[70mustang63b]

Well the A/C was just done 3 weeks ago, had to have new hoses installed. It actually does cool a bit still, while the clutch is working, so I think maybe that damn CCRM is my problem. I tried to find one in the salvage yard today...no luck, the one SN95 was hit in the front passenger side and it looks like the CCRM was destroyed. Did snag the C pillar panel I that I needed for my GT though, and in the same Deep Forest Green

 

[SVTCobra306]

Be cautious when hunting CCRM's in the salvage yard, be sure the vehicle had a 2 speed fan (V-6 stangs had a single speed fan).

If nothing else, Hissin5.0's tests should expose a bad ccrm. (power to pin 14, then ground pin 17 to test the 2 speeds).

 

[70mustang63b]

Finally got it all fixed! The fan motor was bad, low speed was shorted out, and high was not registering. The CCRM was ok, however, since the low was shorting out, the wire got a bit hot and distorted the connection where the pin goes, so it would intermitantly make contact and work. Was able to repair the connection part and replace the motor (thanks HISSIN50 on the tip of where to find the motor) and everything is fine now, including the A/C. The replacement of the fan motor also corrected the problem of the voltmeter showing low charge, now it registers a constant 13.5 volts, even with lights and fan, and A/C on. Thanks everybody for the help.

 

[HISSIN50]

Glad to hear you got it whipped and thanks for posting the results for future searchers.