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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
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fan stopped working - hissin50??

  • Thread starter Thread starter blksn955.o
  • Start date Start date Apr 3, 2010

blksn955.o

Founding Member
Mar 15, 2002
3,263
0
66
st.louis mo 314
Apr 3, 2010
#1
  • Apr 3, 2010
  • #1
My cooling fan has stopped working. I have replaced my CCRM prior with a new part from the dealer (about 4-5yrs ago at 10-13k miles 20k tops). Went and replaced the cooling sensor switch as its just easy and cheap. the fan is not responding at all. I am trying to test if the CCRM is sending power to the fan or not to see if the fan is dead.

I have been trying to test the CCRM and can get 0 response from the volt meter. I have tested the volt meter with a 9v bat to make sure I was just not being stupid. I can not get 12 anywhere by any means. I have tried the key on, key off. I am using the information provided by hissin50 at 94-95 Mustangs Electrical CCRM - Mustang-Tech.

I have checked all the underhood and underdash fuses and none are bad.

Fuel pump is fine and I hear the CCRM clicking when I look for 12v with the key on. I have tried pushing the pins into the wires at #1, 2, 14, into the back of the harness were the wires go into the block. with the meter just reading 0.00?

I am going to see if I can get any voltage at the plug for the fan itself with the car running at temp. If I get 12v that way I am replacing the fan.

Any tips as I should be able to test the CCRM. I am about to just bypass the CCRM totally as frankly if it is the CCRM I am not buying another one if its only going to last less than 20k miles.
 

blksn955.o

Founding Member
Mar 15, 2002
3,263
0
66
st.louis mo 314
Apr 3, 2010
#2
  • Apr 3, 2010
  • #2
I think I may know but if someone could verify my thinking it would be greatly welcomed.

The CCRM will not get/see the voltage until the EEC tells it to do said action. Still not sure why I could not see the constant 12v.

Started the car and had the neg lead of the meter in the neg term of the fan plug. 0.00 volts but it was only 150* so I was not expecting any voltage. When my autometer guage reflected around 190 (changed settings via tweecer) I got 13-14 volts at the fan plug.

Bottom line I need a new fan setup. I tried to remove just the motor but the fan part broke upon removal. So I am going to pick up a new fan just not sure if I want a stock or taurus fan setup or stock.
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
31,179
34
129
Apr 3, 2010
#3
  • Apr 3, 2010
  • #3
That's not uncommon for the fan blade to not divorce the motor's output shaft.

If you don't have a radiator with stock pick-up points (for easy fan mounting), just use a 3.8L Taurus fan. The motors and connectors are better.

If you need to bench-test your old or new fan, you can use 8 AWG fused wire from the fan motor to the battery terminals. That tells the story quickly.

Good luck bud.
 

blksn955.o

Founding Member
Mar 15, 2002
3,263
0
66
st.louis mo 314
Apr 3, 2010
#4
  • Apr 3, 2010
  • #4
Thanks for the reply. I am going to look for a 3.8 fan wanting to hit up a local yard anyway to see about a 31 spline t-loc as well.
 

blksn955.o

Founding Member
Mar 15, 2002
3,263
0
66
st.louis mo 314
Apr 3, 2010
#5
  • Apr 3, 2010
  • #5
Found a stock replacement on my local forum...got the fan assembly for $20 .
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
31,179
34
129
Apr 3, 2010
#6
  • Apr 3, 2010
  • #6
 

blksn955.o

Founding Member
Mar 15, 2002
3,263
0
66
st.louis mo 314
Apr 4, 2010
#7
  • Apr 4, 2010
  • #7
Also decided to move the CCRM from the overflow bracket over to the passenger side lower frame rail next to the radiator/in front of the air filter.
 
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