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Few quick suspension questions.

  • Thread starter Thread starter TC00GT
  • Start date Start date Sep 26, 2006
T

TC00GT

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Sep 26, 2006
#1
  • Sep 26, 2006
  • #1
I'm doing a front end replacement on my 66 289, including new SSBC brakes and suspension. my question is should I also replace the cernterlink, inner tie rods and Idler arm bushings also? I'm doing new springs, sway bar, shocks, bushings etc (basically a grab-a trak kit). Is there any way to determine if these parts should be replaced, or should I just spend the extra $150 and replace them too?

Also, I was leaning towards the 560 lbs front coils, with the kyb shocks, will this be too soft? It's mostly a weekend street car, but I like to push it every now and then. Any thoughts? :SNSign:
 

1320stang

Founding Member
Nov 13, 1998
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Edmond, Oklahoma
Sep 26, 2006
#2
  • Sep 26, 2006
  • #2
Yeah, if you're doing the rest, take care of it all at once.
 

spirockp

5 Year Member
Mar 26, 2004
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NJ
Sep 26, 2006
#3
  • Sep 26, 2006
  • #3
That's what I did. All at once.
 

LMan

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#4
  • Sep 27, 2006
  • #4
The KYBs (gas a justs) are harsh for the street. That combo will def not be too soft.
Just my opinion.
 
T

TC00GT

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#5
  • Sep 27, 2006
  • #5
What other shocks are guys running? Seems every suspension kit under the sun comes with the KYB's.
 

LMan

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#6
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That's cuz they are cheap.

KYB makes a softer shock (GR-2, I think), or the Edelbrock IAS shocks seem to work well. Early versions had a poor reputation but the current version gets good press.

You can always try the GAJs and see how they work for you, since they are already in the kits. Decide if you want to pay for better shocks later.
 

2bav8

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Nov 30, 1998
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Sep 28, 2006
#7
  • Sep 28, 2006
  • #7
Big boys play with Koni shocks, not KYB

Also, if you're going to be replacing the idler arm, might as well go roller.
Improvement is worth every extra penny.
Course, while you're doing that a set of roller spring perches also make a huge improvement. Oh ya, and the stock strut rods suck. Strut rods with heim joints not only improve ride quality and suspension response, but make caster adjustments a lot easier. Just my $.02 if you want a better driving Mustang.
 
T

TC00GT

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#8
  • Sep 28, 2006
  • #8
Thanks, I appreciate the input. Would you still recommend all those upgrades for a strictly street driven car? I have no doubt they would improve handling. just trying to budget myself. thanks.
 

LMan

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#9
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how can we advise if we don't know your budget?
 
6

66Runt

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#10
  • Sep 28, 2006
  • #10
Maine has som nice winding roads

So yes those are good suggestions. I put Gas-A-just up front with stock springs cut to lower the car. they work very well up there. I did not like the rear shocks. I put a set of GR2s on the back and it balanced really nice. Pulled some 0.99G turns on a back road last weekend.
Suspension mods are on the web site in my signature.
 

2bav8

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Nov 30, 1998
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Sep 29, 2006
#11
  • Sep 29, 2006
  • #11
All of the previous mods make huge, significant improvements on a street driven Mustang.
IMO I will never own a classic Mustang with them.
 

LMan

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#12
  • Sep 29, 2006
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2bav8 said:
Big boys play with Koni shocks, not KYB
Click to expand...

Konis are for you rich guys


..us bottom-feeders have to make do with less. Ive owned entire Mustangs worth less than a set of Konis
 
O

Opentracker

20+ Year Stangneter
Feb 4, 2004
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Sep 29, 2006
#13
  • Sep 29, 2006
  • #13
We are having good luck putting the KYB shock up front

with the MP Grab-A-Track shock in the rear on a budget built street car.


The Grab-A-Track shock is made by Monro. It isn't as stiff as the KYB and they cost less.

Stock V8 springs with a set of large sway bars and the shock combo will get good results. The roller parts should be next or done all at once if you can A-Ford it.

John
 
T

TC00GT

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#14
  • Sep 29, 2006
  • #14
Thanks. Here's what I'm planning on right now. Budget, right, well I'm planning on 1,000 for the SSBC disk brakes, and I'm hoping about $600 for the front suspension (not including new upper and lower control arms, which I already bought)

SSBC Disk Brakes
shelby drop
Uppler and Lower control arms
Inner and outer tie rods
Roller idler arm (do I need a new bracket for this?)
1" front sway bar & bushings
Grab-a-trak 560# coils
KYB GAJ front shocks

I'm still on the fence about roller spring perches and the adjustable strut rods. Not sure if the budget will allow both right now.

Once the front is done & settled, I'll do the rear suspension.
4.5 leaf springs
Shocks (GR2 maybe?)

Did I miss anything? I'm open to all oppinions & suggestions.
 

2bav8

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Sep 30, 2006
#15
  • Sep 30, 2006
  • #15
Of all the suspension improvements you can make, the spring perches and strut rod upgrades are THE most important. I would make a budget suspension design around them. Once installed, you will understand.
 
O

Opentracker

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Sep 30, 2006
#16
  • Sep 30, 2006
  • #16
I agree with Matt. The roller parts help a lot. More than you might think.

If you put a roller kit in your idler arm, it won't fit the stock frame bracket. We have our roller idler arms turned down on a lathe so they will work with the stock frame bracket. The longer brackets are no longer reproduced. The only place to find one is the wrecking yards.

John
 
6

66Runt

Member
Jun 11, 2005
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Sep 30, 2006
#17
  • Sep 30, 2006
  • #17
Make that two of us that agree with Matt

And all three of us are running these on our cars, in different applications. 2baV8 runs Auto-X, Opentracker runs road course, and I run streets.

When you get that kind of diversity all saying the same thing, you really ought to listen.

Good luck with what ever you decide.

Scott
 
T

TC00GT

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#18
  • Oct 2, 2006
  • #18
Thanks for all the responses, I think I finally can move forward with the upgrade. :SNSign:
 
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