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  • 1974 - 1978 Mustang II Talk & Tech

Fibergalss bumpers

  • Thread starter Thread starter windsoreight
  • Start date Start date Jan 18, 2004

windsoreight

Founding Member
Feb 11, 2002
99
0
0
Ocean City, MD
Jan 18, 2004
#1
  • Jan 18, 2004
  • #1
Who here is running fiberglass bumpers? How did yours? I don't want to through bolt them. I want a nice clean look. I would also like to remove the bumper shocks. Anyone have any details. Pic would be great too. Looking for some ideas. Thanks
 
N

Northern J II

New Member
Jul 25, 2003
157
0
0
Belwood Ontario Canada
Jan 19, 2004
#2
  • Jan 19, 2004
  • #2
I got my fiberglass bumpers from MAS. I heh...hem burnt the urathane off the original bumpers in my fire pit. The body shop then sand blasted the bumper supports and used some form of adhesive to bond the fiberglass bumpers on. I really liked the way they turned out. Very smooth without any bumper bolts. The adhesive has been tested at sustained tripple digit speeds hehe! If you need more info I can repost tonight at home with MAS' phone number and some photos if you like?????
 
D

dmoody

Founding Member
Nov 4, 2002
789
0
17
Winston-Salem, NC
Jan 19, 2004
#3
  • Jan 19, 2004
  • #3
I have MAS bumpers but I don't like the quality of the front one... the bumper is warped on top. Overcoming this is very hard to make it look good. Northern J's idea of bonding it to the original urethane supports is a good idea. I ordered another front bumper from MAS thinking that maybe I got a bad one but it looked the exact same way. If anybody knows of a better reproduction for the front, I'd really be thankful.

d
 
J

Johan

Member
Jun 12, 2003
81
0
6
Waldheim, LA
Jan 19, 2004
#4
  • Jan 19, 2004
  • #4
I have the MAS bumpers also. It looks like they were molded from old cracked urethane originals, there are surface cracks molded right in. The quality wasn't top notch, but the price was right. I used stainless steel carriage bolts through to aluminum L-brackets. It is a through bolt, but I think it looks fairly clean. I tossed the original steel part of the bumpers - them suckas were heavy!
 

windsoreight

Founding Member
Feb 11, 2002
99
0
0
Ocean City, MD
Jan 19, 2004
#5
  • Jan 19, 2004
  • #5
These bumpers came with the car and are painted to match. I don't know who made them but the are awesome quality. I want to elminate the bumper core and the bumper shocks. I would like to save the weight.
 

welder4956

20+ Year Stangneter
Nov 28, 2003
228
89
38
Birmingham, AL
Jan 19, 2004
#6
  • Jan 19, 2004
  • #6
windsoreight said:
These bumpers came with the car and are painted to match. I don't know who made them but the are awesome quality. I want to elminate the bumper core and the bumper shocks. I would like to save the weight.
Click to expand...

If you're a hard-core racer and do very little or no street driving, you definitely should get rid of the reinforcing steel behind the bumper. But if you're car is street-driven most of the time and/or a daily driver, you may want to keep that reinforcement to protect your investment. I let my son drive mine one day with me in the passenger seat and the floor mat got bunched up around the pedal so that the harder he pushed the brake, the harder it also mashed the gas pedal. He hit the back of a Toyota Camry not once, but twice. Scared the poor lady driving it to death. He would have hit her a third time if I hadn't jerked up the emergency brake. Not a scratch on her car, my bumper was only slightly bent upwards. You just can't predict the unexpected, like someone stopping too quick in front of you (should have tossed that stupid floor mat though). If that were a fiberglass front bumper with no reinforcement, my bumper, grill, valence, spoiler and front fascia would have all been trashed. I would rather have the extra weight of the reinforcement to protect my car.
 
D

danimaltheanima

New Member
Dec 3, 2003
181
0
0
Jan 19, 2004
#7
  • Jan 19, 2004
  • #7
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2455347298&category=40017


Just in case your lookin for one.

Dan
 

Wart

I'm Mad as HELL and I'M not Gonna Take it ANYMORE!
Founding Member
Sep 1, 1998
408
3
58
NE Ohio
Jan 20, 2004
#8
  • Jan 20, 2004
  • #8
welder4956 said:
You just can't predict the unexpected, like someone stopping too quick in front of you (should have tossed that stupid floor mat though).
Click to expand...



That's lame.
 
D

dmoody

Founding Member
Nov 4, 2002
789
0
17
Winston-Salem, NC
Jan 20, 2004
#9
  • Jan 20, 2004
  • #9
I can't help but agree with welder4956, especially for the rear. If you are going to drive it on the street you should put some metal somewhere in your bumper. If you are just racing then anything goes.

d
 

windsoreight

Founding Member
Feb 11, 2002
99
0
0
Ocean City, MD
Jan 20, 2004
#10
  • Jan 20, 2004
  • #10
My goal is to make a mid 9 second car. So weight is an issue. The car will mainly be raced and just taken to shows. A 9 second car is barley streetable. But after some thought I am going to keep the bumper rebars. It will make it easier to mount. Now what product would I use to adhere the fiberglass bumper to the metal reinforcment?
 
D

dmoody

Founding Member
Nov 4, 2002
789
0
17
Winston-Salem, NC
Jan 20, 2004
#11
  • Jan 20, 2004
  • #11
>Now what product would I use to adhere the fiberglass bumper to the metal reinforcment?

I'd be interested to know that question myself. Also are there any differences
between the vendors of these fiberglass bumpers? Is one better than the other?
I know MAS bumpers are the cheapest I've found.

d
 
C

cobraii351

Founding Member
Jan 10, 2000
1,104
4
39
Altoona, PA
Jan 20, 2004
#12
  • Jan 20, 2004
  • #12
I welded bolts to steel strap and fiberglassed them into the "groove" the is on the inside of ther bumper. They then bolt to the factory core.





It's not as bad as it looks. One other thing I did as I am using these on the street. The ends and VERY flexible. What I did was to fill the end "pockets" the "GREAT STUFF" spray insulation, cut it flat to the shell, then covered with glass mat and resin. It made the ends much more solid and less prone to vibrate in with the wind/engine. Contact me if you have any questions I can help with.


Tim
 
N

Northern J II

New Member
Jul 25, 2003
157
0
0
Belwood Ontario Canada
Jan 20, 2004
#13
  • Jan 20, 2004
  • #13
Windsoreight:

I called my body shop and they admitted to using a product called Vette-bond! It is the same stuff they glue Corvette body panels to the steel inner structure with. Makes sense, just feels dirty using Chevy glue on my Mustang! I will post some pic's tonight (I am heh....hem at work right now). I was going to do the same thing as cobraii351 (looks very well done), but the dudes at the body shop insured me the glue would work. (I had posted a similar thread a year back). The Vette-bond worked really well for me.
 

MUSTANG J II

Founding Member
Mar 31, 2002
448
0
0
Belwood Ontario Canada
Jan 20, 2004
#14
  • Jan 20, 2004
  • #14
MAS Racing Products (651) 644-6811 St. Paul Minnessota. (Dude I bought the bumpers from).

From: Northern J (WORK) /A.K.A Mustang J II (HOME)/A.K.A Mustang J (HOME II)

Here are some pics for you........
 

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  • Bumpers1.webp
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MUSTANG J II

Founding Member
Mar 31, 2002
448
0
0
Belwood Ontario Canada
Jan 20, 2004
#15
  • Jan 20, 2004
  • #15
P.S

Before anybody asks the froint spoiler in the picture is from Mustangs Unlimited. (factory style) [They have a longer then stock one too]
 
D

danimaltheanima

New Member
Dec 3, 2003
181
0
0
Jan 21, 2004
#16
  • Jan 21, 2004
  • #16
Fiberglass bumpers

How much did you actually pay for those bumpers from MAS? Did you also have to mock up some kind of attatching brackets or do they come direct fit? I found a few places that sell fiberglass stuff for the MII I just never checked to see which companies if any make them with the attatching bolts.

Dan
 
N

Northern J II

New Member
Jul 25, 2003
157
0
0
Belwood Ontario Canada
Jan 21, 2004
#17
  • Jan 21, 2004
  • #17
Well as a proud Canadian shopping in the U.S, I bent over and paid $79.00 each American for the bumpers. By the time everybody was done &*%$#! me they cost $160.00 Canadian each

It is kinda hard to see, but the one photo of the un-painted bumpers shows the back side of them. The bumpers have no brackets or instructions. They looked very good for the low price. (I work at a speed shop and I have seen much worse!) I burnt the urathane off the original bumper supports, at that point they were sand blasted and the new fiberglass bumper skins were "Vette-Bonded" on to the original steel bumper backings.

P.S Order the catalog, It made me laugh for hours. It looks like it was printed in 1979! It had Calanders for sale with half naked chicks drapped over Mustang II's! (The chicks are probably older then my mom now!)
 

welder4956

20+ Year Stangneter
Nov 28, 2003
228
89
38
Birmingham, AL
Jan 25, 2004
#18
  • Jan 25, 2004
  • #18
Wart said:
That's lame.
Click to expand...

OK, I'll bite. Care to explain why you think "that's lame"?
 
N

Northern J II

New Member
Jul 25, 2003
157
0
0
Belwood Ontario Canada
Jan 26, 2004
#19
  • Jan 26, 2004
  • #19
welder4956 said:
OK, I'll bite. Care to explain why you think "that's lame"?
Click to expand...

Somebody had to ask (Glad it was you).
 

78CobraII

Moderator
Jul 31, 1998
1,808
8
39
Birmingham, AL
Jan 26, 2004
#20
  • Jan 26, 2004
  • #20
windsoreight said:
These bumpers came with the car and are painted to match. I don't know who made them but the are awesome quality. I want to elminate the bumper core and the bumper shocks. I would like to save the weight.
Click to expand...

For occasional street use, how about using some aluminum square tubing for replacing the bumper shocks and the bumper reinforcement? It would require quite a bit of fabrication, but would be lighter and better than nothing in an impact.

78CobraII
 
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