FINALLY Finished 5-Lug - Please Check it Out!

Reed

New Member
Mar 31, 2005
78
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BC, Canada
Okay, I've been collecting parts for the last 6 months or so and with a lot of my dad's help, I finally finished my 5-lug last Thursday night.

Some Exterior Shots:

5lugback.jpg

mustwork46.jpg

mustwork39.jpg

mustwork38.jpg

mustwork23.jpg

mustwork26.jpg

mustwork25.jpg


Rear Wheel Space Before, Then After:
wheels2.jpg

mustwork28.jpg


Rear Brakes:
mustwork20.jpg

mustwork30.jpg


Rear End: (No one can really see it, but I know it's there!)
mustwork16.jpg


Here's what we got done:

Front:
Bullitt 600 lb.-in springs
Polyurethane spring isolators
Bullitt 26.5 mm tubular sway bar
Bullitt Tokico struts
MAC Adjustable CC Plates
'94 SN-95 spindles
Heavy Duty brake lines
13" Rotors with Cobra style calipers (Bullitt paint)
Bullit Wheels

Rear:
Bullitt 250 lb.-in springs
polyurethane spring isolators
Bullitt 21 mm tubular sway bar
Bullitt Tokico shocks
'94 SN-95 axles
10" solid rotor with SN-95 calipers (painted red)
3:73s with rebuilt Trac-Lok
Painted rear end assembly black with chrome diff cover
Bullit Wheels

Under Hood:
'94 SN-95 Brake Booster and MC
MM 3-2 Port MC conversion
FRPP Proportioning valve

I didn't have a chance to get the front wheels aligned properly. I does have bad rubbing on one side, but I won't really be able to tell how bad it is until I get the thing aligned properly. Because of this, I haven't really stepped on the gas to test the rear gears, but just from the small bursts I've tried it does feel like it has more poop! :nice: The car seems to have dropped about 3/4 " but I haven't measured yet and I hear the springs sometimes take a week to settle in, but I'm pretty happy with the drop anyway, not looking for anything crazy. Again, I need to have it aligned to throw it into some corners, but I can't wait for that either! I have heard of problems with people using the front Bullitt sway bar. As for this car, the bar pulls down on the bushings a little but sits more or less parallel with the ground at the endlinks (stock ones). Underneath the bar is in contact with two transmission cooler lines, so I'm going to wrap them in a bit of rubber for protection. Thanks for looking guys!
 
Looks very nice. Just about like mine but a different color. I tried the poly isolators up front too, but it was way too high. I ended up ditching them. I thought I read that the Bullitt springs made the rear lower than the front on a Fox?
 
You know what? I was looking at the car today and it does seem that the front is higher than the rear. Ah well.

Did you switch to rubber isolators? Those must sink in a bit right? I don't want to get rid of the isolators, but may have to switch to rubber if I'm not going to see any more "sink." I do have new rubber uppers I could put in, do you think that'd help?
 
I ran no front isolators on my 83 vert with Eibach Drag springs per Eibach to keep the front lower then the rear. I really never noticed any difference in road noise or harness... Without those isolators, it would sit atleast an inch lower. :nice:
 
I just pulled mine out all together and am running stock springs with no isolators. It is a bit harsh on bumps, but that might also be due to the poly control arm bushings I put in at the same time as the isolators. My fender opening at the highest point is right at 26" to 26-1/4". I would like to try some Bullitt springs later on, and at that time I will put in some rubber isolators also to see if that cuts down on the harsh bumps.
 
Nice looking car man! Very clean.

One question though, did you have to use adjustable tie rod ends (bumpsteer spacers) in the swap? I am going to be putting SN95 cobra brakes on my car next month (been ordering parts like crazy) and I am concerned about not having enough threads on the steering arms to adjust the tie rods out to correct the toe-in. I was just wondering if I should just order them just in case and not worry about it when it comes time to drive it. Any input would be apreciated.