Finally running....Dyno numbers inside

I've been working on modifying the car, and building a new engine since about Feb.
Here is a complete rundown of whats on the car.

Dart Iron Eagle block - 4.125" bore
Forged SRP dished pistons
Total Seal Hell Fire piston rings
Scat forged H-beam rods
ARP 2000 rod bolts
Scat forged crank (internal Balance) 3.25 Stroke (4.125 bore x 3.25 stroke = 347 cubes)
Custom Bennet Racing Solid Roller cam - Dur @ .050 236 int, 242 Ex | Lift .603 int, .609 ex | 114 LSA
Melling High Volume Oil Pump
ARP Oil Pump drive
Milodon Pan and Pickup
Mezire Electric Water Pump
Fluidyne Radiator
Inovations West Balancer

Fox Lake Stage 3 Ported TW heads (195cc)
Ferrea Racing Valves (1000)
Comp 977 Springs
Comp Solid Roller link lifters
Trick Flow Rockers
7.300" Comp Hi-Tech pushrods
ARP 1/2" head studs
Port Matched TrickFlow R-Box intake
3/8 Phenolic Spacer
Vortech Si-Trim 3" Pulley
Polished Fox discharge tube
Vortech Mini Race bypass
Accufab 75mm throttle body
75mm EGR Delete Plate
Snow Performance Meth Injection
MSD 6AL
MSD Coil
PMAS 95mm Mas Air
TwEECer RT

Glenns Performance Sumped Tank
Weldon 2025 Fuel Pump
Weldon -12 100 micron filter
Weldon -10 40 micron filter
Weldon14000 Fuel Pump Controller
Weldon 2040 Regulator
Aeromotive Fuel Rails
Seimens 60lb injectros

Zoom Stage 2.5 clutch
Fidanza steel flywheel
T-56 Viper Spec
Pro 50 Shifter
McLeod Steel Bellhousing
Dynotech aluminum driveshaft
3.55 gears
Superior 31 spline axles
Eaton limited slip
MM adjustable lower control arms
Hotchkis double adjustable uppers
Wild Rides battle box kit
MM Subframe connectors
MM roll bar
PA Racing K-Member
PA Racing A-Arms
Strange adjustable shocks
Strange Coil Over front suspension
Steeda front and rear sway bars

This year I smoothed out the engine bay a little bit, and hid some of the wiring, upgraded the rearend, put in the rollbar, and pretty much the whole engine is new.
I got it on the dyno tonight, and after dialing the A/F in, I ended up with 627 rwhp. I think it should make a little more once I get a new belt on the s/c. It was slipping a little bit on the high end.

Here is a picture of the graph.


Here is a little engine shot


and a picture of the whole car. You'll have to excuse the dirt and dust all over it. This picture was the first time it was outside since last September.


The car funds have long since runout, so I am working on cutting a hole in the stock hood so that there is at least some version of a hood on it. For now I just runaround with it off. The car runs awesome. Idles steady at 800 RPM's, I can drive it around at 1200 rpm's without any bucking. So far I couldn't be happier with it. I use the car pretty much as my daily driver until the snow flies.

Maybe with a new belt on the vortech it will pick up a little more hp too.

ProKiller said:

is that with the meth too? when does it kick in?

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Yeah, the numbers are with the meth going. I have it kick on about 2 PSI, and it is full on at about 12PSI.

That is about what I was seeing for total boost. It would get to 12 PSI at about 5500 RPM and that would be it. even reving to 6000, it wouldn't go up. I am going to pick up a new shorter belt today and see if it will make a little more.

Had to order a new belt. I got it today slapped it on, and did a couple of 3rd gear pulls. I am now seeing between 14 - 15 PSI out of it now.

Now it's time to get to the track and see how it does.

Yup, all tuned by me with the Tweecer. I played around with driveability, and once that was pretty good, I took it to the dyno and dialed in the wide open.
The only issue I really have right now is at a warm startup. The idle hunts if it is warm and in Open loop. Once it switches to closed loop after about 40 seconds, it idles like a champ.

From start to finish it took about 2 hours to dial in the WOT. It would have taken less time, but I tuned it for no methanol, then hooked up the meth and had to dial the A/F ratio in again.
Then we made a couple pulls messing with the bypass valve before we figured out the belt was slipping on us.
I probably had about 12 pulls on the dyno all together. The dyno place I go to charges $100 an hour to run.
It was really rich when I first put it on there. I hit it from 2K in 4th gear, and the A/F ratio dropped right off the scale. Looked like a diesel with the amount of dark smoke coming out of it. I leaned the whole MAF curve by 10%, and it still was less than 10:1 for the whole pull. Another 10% to the whole thing, and it started to come around.

I'll work on a video. There is a local street drag going on tomorrow. It is pretty short since it's run on an oval track. They just use the front straight away for the race. Its only like 300 some feet, but it is still fun to get out and ham on it.
My buddy is going with, so I'll get him to take some videos.

Black Stampede said:

Wow man, nice setup you got there! Weren't you thinking about going with a turbo or is my memory failing me?

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Ha, good memory. That was the plan, but once prices started getting added up for all the little extra stuff I didn't really account for, I figured I had better hold off.
I already had the S-Trim from my last combo, I just sent it back to Vortech and had the Si-Trim impeller and Volute put on it.
The turbo is still in the plan, just a little furter away. At least now I have a good base to just drop it on without too much modification.

What kind of duty are you seeing on your injectors at WOT up top?

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In the logs I was seeing about 67% duty cycle, so there should be plenty of room to grow.

How do you like the solid roller?

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I like the solid roller a lot. It actually seems more streetable than the TF Stage 1 cam that I was running before. It has a pretty tight lash on it .016 for both intake and exhaust, so it isn't too noisy. It idles steady at 800 RPM, and pulls about 13" of vaccum at idle.

Have you had any issues with the weldon pump or controller?

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No issues with the pump and controller (Other than the price)
It is kind of loud though. I put some rubber washers between the pump and bracket that I made, and some between the bracket and the car. The controller does a good job of making it a little quieter driving around town. I guess that is what you get when the thing can pump out about 160 GPH.

What are you shooting for on the AF ratio. That doesn't look bad up top.
Whats your timing curve like?

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I was trying to keep it in the low 11's for A/F. It seemed to like it there. Any fatter or leaner, and I would loose a little. For timing I'm running about 16* max. Trying to keep it pretty conservative for now.

What size crank pulley are you running?

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I have the regular 6.88" crank pulley on there right now. I need to take the idler pulley off the pump and see if I would have room for a bigger crank pulley.
I think the belt was slipping because it was the belt for a 3.33" SC pulley. the tensioner was at the end of its travel. I put an inch shorter belt on it this week and I am seeing between 14-15 # out of it now.

Great combo. You have a LOT left in it I think.

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Thanks a lot. I was always paying attention to your posts when you were doing your build, cause I knew that was the road I wanted to take with mine.
I hope to step up the crank pulley this year and get it back on the dyno to see what it does.