First Mod.... New HeadUnit...

Sgt Beavis

New Member
Aug 30, 2006
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It was just over a week and I've already gotten to work on my 1st change to the car. On Saturday, I was at BestBuy chatting with a guy in car audio when he mentioned to me that BB will do price matching on Internet Prices. So I ran home and found a deal on a Alpine CDA-9857 for $267. The regular price for this unit is $349.99, so I got it for less, even when counting the install kit, wiring harness, and an iPod cable.

I went with the CDA-9857 because it doesn't require an external iPod module and claims to give you much faster access to your iPod than other head units. I haven't tried other head units, but I can say that the Alpine controls the iPod instantaniously.

Install1.JPG




The first item on the agenda was getting the wiring harness squared away. I soldered all of the connections together and wrapped them in electrical tape. I did alot of research before starting on this and discovered that there is a 5v fixed voltage regulator that needs to be purchased and used with the Remote power on for the amps. If you don't you'll get a nasty POP when the amps are turned on. I don't know if this would be bad for the system, but I didn't want to find out. I carefully solder the head units Remote On, cable to the input on the regulator and the output was soldered to the Amp On lines. The center connector goes to a ground wire.

Install5.JPG




Most people seem to like putting their iPod into the glove box. It does make sense because it can be locked up, however I listen to my iPod throughout the day when I'm working, so I decided to mount it inside the center console. Removing the Shaker500 requires the upper half of the center console to be removed, so taking the whole thing out wasn't that big of a deal.

Install2.JPG




I then removed the armrest and drilled a 9/16ths hole so I could thread the iPod cable through it. The radio end of the cable won't fit through any smaller hole and the hinge for the armrest covers it completely, so no biggie..


Install3.JPG




I tried running the cable around the armrest hinge, but the hinge will severely pinch the cable when trying to close it. I thought about cutting the hinge but decided to make a channel under the hinge which lets the cable come out centered in the console. It looks really good IMO. The hinge makes it a tight fit for the iPod cable, so I had to make sure there was plenty of slack. My current ipod case has a belt clip that just does hold onto the tissue holder under the armrest. I found a small peice of wood in my shop that I used as a cross brace behind the iPod which works nicely. However, I view this as a temporary solution until I figure out a better way to mount the iPod to the underside of the armrest.

Install7.JPG




Here is the finished product. Note that the left side is sticking out a bit. I realized that the RCA plugs, behind the unit were interfereing, so I repositioned them slightly. The HU now sits perfectly in the center stack and I've got a nice little pocket for my stuff.


Install6.JPG
 
I have the same Alpine. It's great. You got a heck of a price on it. I also have my ipod in the console. I ran the cable through the knock out which is behind the emergency brake. I am using a metal case for the ipod that I got from Small dog electronics. I forget the brand but it's as touch as metal because that's what it is made of.) The case is velcroed into place on the angle interior part of the console just behind the emergency brake. That works great. I don't really need to access it unless I am updating the ipod with music I have added.
The Alpine head unit lets you search all playlists very quickly. And it turns the ipod on and off so you never need to touch it. The display tells you all you need to know and the sound is great. The head unit has a single CD player which I rarely use because of the ipod. I also added satellite radio.
I'm very pleased.
 
Yep, all reasons that I got it. Thus far I am pleased.

I'm going to consider getting the bluetooth module for it, but only if I can get a good deal on it.

However, up next is a license plate holder for the front. I've found a couple that don't screw into the front bumper. Unfortunately the PoPo in Texas are pretty good about enforcing the use of a front license plate.

After that, I'll start considering my first mechnaical mods.
 
I never installed a 5v regulator when i replaced my shaker 500 with an alpine iva-w200 and i never get any popping noise at all when the system turns on
 
stanmckinney said:
If you get a good deal on the bluetooth module, please share where. It sounds great but I think it is a bit pricey.


The KCA-100BT bluetooth module is 199.99 at Crutchfield. I did a search on ebay and found it for $180.00 (I included shipping) That's the cheapest I've found it so far....

I think this is a new module, so wait a few months and the price will come down.
 
Sgt Beavis said:
It was just over a week and I've already gotten to work on my 1st change to the car. On Saturday, I was at BestBuy chatting with a guy in car audio when he mentioned to me that BB will do price matching on Internet Prices. So I ran home and found a deal on a Alpine CDA-9857 for $267. The regular price for this unit is $349.99, so I got it for less, even when counting the install kit, wiring harness, and an iPod cable.

I went with the CDA-9857 because it doesn't require an external iPod module and claims to give you much faster access to your iPod than other head units. I haven't tried other head units, but I can say that the Alpine controls the iPod instantaniously.

Install1.JPG




The first item on the agenda was getting the wiring harness squared away. I soldered all of the connections together and wrapped them in electrical tape. I did alot of research before starting on this and discovered that there is a 5v fixed voltage regulator that needs to be purchased and used with the Remote power on for the amps. If you don't you'll get a nasty POP when the amps are turned on. I don't know if this would be bad for the system, but I didn't want to find out. I carefully solder the head units Remote On, cable to the input on the regulator and the output was soldered to the Amp On lines. The center connector goes to a ground wire.

Install5.JPG




Most people seem to like putting their iPod into the glove box. It does make sense because it can be locked up, however I listen to my iPod throughout the day when I'm working, so I decided to mount it inside the center console. Removing the Shaker500 requires the upper half of the center console to be removed, so taking the whole thing out wasn't that big of a deal.

Install2.JPG




I then removed the armrest and drilled a 9/16ths hole so I could thread the iPod cable through it. The radio end of the cable won't fit through any smaller hole and the hinge for the armrest covers it completely, so no biggie..


Install3.JPG




I tried running the cable around the armrest hinge, but the hinge will severely pinch the cable when trying to close it. I thought about cutting the hinge but decided to make a channel under the hinge which lets the cable come out centered in the console. It looks really good IMO. The hinge makes it a tight fit for the iPod cable, so I had to make sure there was plenty of slack. My current ipod case has a belt clip that just does hold onto the tissue holder under the armrest. I found a small peice of wood in my shop that I used as a cross brace behind the iPod which works nicely. However, I view this as a temporary solution until I figure out a better way to mount the iPod to the underside of the armrest.

Install7.JPG




Here is the finished product. Note that the left side is sticking out a bit. I realized that the RCA plugs, behind the unit were interfereing, so I repositioned them slightly. The HU now sits perfectly in the center stack and I've got a nice little pocket for my stuff.


Install6.JPG
I was checking out your wiring harness and to be perfectly honest with you, I can wire a home theater system like a seasoned pro..However, when it comes to understanding car audio and installation, especially when it concerns any type of re-wiring of the harness ?? it's like trying to decode a foreign language..For ie, I have no clue as to what you mean by soldering all the harness connections..Which connections are you exactly referring to ? Also where exactly is the shaker 500 amp located ? in the trunk or behind the console ? I also noticed you have RCA's.. are those for the ipod ? or for the factory subs ? In fact, I don't even know how the subs are connected, meaning do they plug directly into the shaker 500 amp through RCA cables ? or through the wiring harness?..my understanding is if their considered as being low level outputs, they would somehow plug directly into the shaker 500 through RCA's would they not ?? Anyhow, I'd be really grateful if you could provide any help and support in clearing up these issues, in order to have a much better understanding of what to expect..Thanks
 
Lets go through them one at a time...

red05bullitgt said:
I was checking out your wiring harness and to be perfectly honest with you, I can wire a home theater system like a seasoned pro..However, when it comes to understanding car audio and installation, especially when it concerns any type of re-wiring of the harness ?? it's like trying to decode a foreign language..For ie, I have no clue as to what you mean by soldering all the harness connections.

Soldering is sorta like welding the wires together. You heat the wires with a soldering iron and then apply the Solder compound (which looks like bare wire) The solder melts onto the wires and joins them together. You can get a soldering iron from radio shack:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/i...ring+iron&kw=soldering+iron&parentPage=search



.Which connections are you exactly referring to ?
The radio you buy comes with a wiring harness. You then purchase a second wiring harness that is made for your car (usually by a company called Metra) You have to connect these wires together so you can directly plug into the new head unit and the OEM wiring.

Also where exactly is the shaker 500 amp located ? in the trunk or behind the console ?

The factory amps for the Shaker 500 are behind the console. If you have a Shaker 1000 they are in the trunk.

I also noticed you have RCA's.. are those for the ipod ? or for the factory subs ?
For the factory subs. They plug into the back of the alpine unit. The other end of the wire goes to the OEM connections that take the signal to the amp.

In fact, I don't even know how the subs are connected, meaning do they plug directly into the shaker 500 amp through RCA cables ? or through the wiring harness?..my understanding is if their considered as being low level outputs, they would somehow plug directly into the shaker 500 through RCA's would they not ??

The RCA's plug into the head unit and lead directly to the AMP input through the OEM harness....

Anyhow, I'd be really grateful if you could provide any help and support in clearing up these issues, in order to have a much better understanding of what to expect..Thanks

No problem :)
 
Sgt Beavis said:
Lets go through them one at a time...



Soldering is sorta like welding the wires together. You heat the wires with a soldering iron and then apply the Solder compound (which looks like bare wire) The solder melts onto the wires and joins them together. You can get a soldering iron from radio shack:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/i...ring+iron&kw=soldering+iron&parentPage=search




The radio you buy comes with a wiring harness. You then purchase a second wiring harness that is made for your car (usually by a company called Metra) You have to connect these wires together so you can directly plug into the new head unit and the OEM wiring.



The factory amps for the Shaker 500 are behind the console. If you have a Shaker 1000 they are in the trunk.

I also noticed you have RCA's.. are those for the ipod ? or for the factory subs ?
For the factory subs. They plug into the back of the alpine unit. The other end of the wire goes to the OEM connections that take the signal to the amp.



The RCA's plug into the head unit and lead directly to the AMP input through the OEM harness....



No problem :)
Hi Beavis? First I'd like to thank you for being patient and going through all the trouble in explaining everything, I'm sure that it had to be very time consuming on your part as well.. I just hope that I didn't confuse you in anyway ?? But as you could tell, I was very confused when trying to get my point across..In fact I should have made myself more clear when I brought up the wiring harness issue because actually I do know how to solder, I just wasn't sure what you meant until you made it clear that you have to solder the connections for both the head unit's wiring harness and for the second harness that you have to purchase that plugs into the OEM wiring and for that, you have my apology..Speaking of which, where exactly do I purchase the second harness that plugs into the OEM wiring ? do I order it direct from Ford ? or from Metra ?.. You would think that places such as Best Buy and Circuit City would sell the right harness that plugs into the OEM wiring but then again, it doesn't really surprise me when it comes down to Ford making things more difficult for their customers to purchase something as simple as even a wiring harness from an aftermarket supplier, that plugs directly into their OEM wiring, that would just be too easy lol..Anyway, thanks once again for all you're support and for making all of this much easier to comprehend...Rocky :flag:
 
The part number for the Metra harness is 70-5521. It is available at Car Toys, as well as Best Buy.

Be aware, when I was at Cartoys, the parts catalog listed the part number as 70-5520. This doesn't have the 2nd harness for the subwoofers.

The part number for the Metra Install Kit for an 05-06 Mustang is 99-5807...
 
Does Best Buy match prices of Internet retailers?
If you made your purchase in a Best Buy store, and you find an Internet retailer with a local retail store honoring its own online prices, we'll match their price, plus 10% of the difference. Internet-only retailers are exempt from our price matching program, as well as Web-exclusive offers. Eligible items must be the same brand and model, and currently in stock at the competitor's store.

damn knew it was too good to be true!
 
Sgt Beavis said:
The part number for the Metra harness is 70-5521. It is available at Car Toys, as well as Best Buy.

Be aware, when I was at Cartoys, the parts catalog listed the part number as 70-5520. This doesn't have the 2nd harness for the subwoofers.

The part number for the Metra Install Kit for an 05-06 Mustang is 99-5807...
Beavis, I'm still a bit confused here..Anyway, do I need to purchase both the Metra harness 70-5521 and the Metra install kit 99-5807 ?? in other words do I need to purchase a harness for the OEM wiring and then another harness for just the Subwoofers ?? and if so, which one is for the OEM wiring and which is for the Subs ?? Also, is the Metra install kit one of the harnesses or is that for something else ?? Sorry for all the confusion..:shrug: