Fix Suspension - can i do it at home?

codecraig

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Jul 20, 2006

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Jul 20, 2006

#1

• Jul 20, 2006

• #1

I have a 95 GT 302 and the front end is squeaking. I need to replace the front struts, and probably should do the rear shocks (its all 11 years old). Anyways, is this work just a bolt off/on type of job? it doesn require spring compressor or anything right?

just wondering if this is something i could do in the driveway on saturday afternoon?

what do you think? any suggestions on replacement parts?

this car is my daily driver (400 - 500 miles per week).

Thanks!

 

JJ95GTID

Active Member

Sep 22, 2003

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Phoenix, AZ

Jul 20, 2006

#2

• Jul 20, 2006

• #2

You'll need an impact gun to spin of the strut nuts. Other than that pretty straight forward.

 

95strokerPSU

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Jul 29, 2004

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Sacramento from Philly

Jul 20, 2006

#3

• Jul 20, 2006

• #3

It's all definitely a driveway job, even though having a lift would be nice. When I changed my springs, I didn't even use a spring compressor, just wrapped a rope around the spring to prevent it from flying out and then broke the ball joint loose. Like said above, you will need an impact gun. Good luck.

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

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Nov 29, 1999

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Jul 20, 2006

#4

• Jul 20, 2006

• #4

If you dont have impact, you can work around it. But it sure makes the fastener R/R easier.

I'm with the guys - definately a Sat afternoon driveway task.

What's your budget for dampers?

Good luck.

 

MysteryMachine

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Jun 21, 2003

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Parkesburg, PA

Jul 20, 2006

#5

• Jul 20, 2006

• #5

I didn't put anything around my springs. I did shocks/struts, Rear control arms, new bushings (front and rear) BJ's, bumpsteer kit, cc plates, and spindle in my driveway. And my drive way sucks.

 

bill302

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Nov 2, 2005

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alabama,gadsden

Jul 21, 2006

#6

• Jul 21, 2006

• #6

do it at home but be prepared with a good breaker bar, torque wrench and you might want to get some pb blaster and spray all your bolts that need removal prior to starting because the spindle to strut bolts are torqued at 141-199 ft. lbs....

 

SeventyMach1

Keep it lubed .... keep it straight .... and keep

Mar 30, 2005

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North Carolina

Jul 21, 2006

#7

• Jul 21, 2006

• #7

What Bill said. And the others.



I'm doing my little suspension project in my driveway. My dad's garage is full at the moment. Plus I'm not getting much time to work on it & I don't want it sittin' in there forever.


I didn't use a spring compressor, rope, chain, or anything. If you do it the RIGHT way, there will be no pressure on the spring and you can just pry/pop it out without it flying away. HOWEVER, I imagine that it would be a little tough to get factory springs to re-install easily without a spring tool. Lowering springs are easy because they're shorter.


On the top strut nuts ..... if your replacing the struts, don't worry about them. You can cut the nut off with a Dremel or something.

 

smitty_64

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May 27, 2006

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Jul 21, 2006

#8

• Jul 21, 2006

• #8

Funny question,

I thought it was going to be a driveway job according to the Chilton's. Getting the struts off was no problem. Getting the nut on the strut piston loose however wasted four hours of my time trying to figure it out. Finally, I took the strut, still connected to the camber plate, to the local good year store, and said, "Is there some kind of special tool for getting this f@#$ing nut off?" He said, "No. Are you using an impact wrench?." I said, "No," looking pretty stupid at this point. He said, "Well, that's your special tool, he he, he he."

So, the answer to your question is, yes, it is a driveway job as long as you have or can hand carry the strut and camber into someone's shop and ask them to break it loose for you. The rear was nothing.

For the front, just make sure that you put it up on a jackstand, then use a jack to barely push up on your control arm. The back is even easier. Only took me about 20 minutes, and I am definitely not mechanically inclined. The front would have taken that long had I had a damned impact wrench. The springs were never an issue.

 

smitty_64

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May 27, 2006

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Jul 21, 2006

#9

• Jul 21, 2006

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Although SeventyMach1 is right, if you aren't reusing any hardware from the old strut screw it and cut it with a dremel.

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

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#10

• Jul 21, 2006

• #10

Smitty, that's what I was referring to when I said it can be worked around. I would take the car to a shop before beginning and ask them to loosen the nuts with their impact. Then put the nuts back on (tight enough, but not super tight). That way when you go to remove them again, they should come off.

Your method is a nice fall back idea.

Also there are impact drivers that work off 12 volts - believe it or not, I used one to remove lug nuts once (had been torqued to 100 ft-lbs). They can work. 20 bucks to buy one.

 

maximos

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Sep 15, 2005

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Columbus, OH

Jul 21, 2006

#11

• Jul 21, 2006

• #11

I just replaced the front and rear last night. For the rear, you're going to want to use a crescent wrench to hold the spindle and use another wrench to turn the nut on top. Also, when you're working under the car, make sure you don't start pulling towards you so hard that the socket slips off the nut and flies at your head causing massive amounts of bleeding like it did to me last night. There was blood everywhere.

 

SeventyMach1

Keep it lubed .... keep it straight .... and keep

Mar 30, 2005

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North Carolina

Jul 21, 2006

#12

• Jul 21, 2006

• #12

smitty_64 said:

Although SeventyMach1 is right, if you aren't reusing any hardware from the old strut screw it and cut it with a dremel.

Click to expand...

Haha, I wasn't really reusing any of the hardware. I just needed to get the dust cover off of the strut. That's the only thing I was reusing. You have to get that top nut off to get to it.


For future searcher's that are using new hardware .... BUY NEW DUST BOOT'S!!! This way you don't have to mess with that center nut.