So for sometime the drivers side power seat won't move fore or aft w out the assistance of using you're feet to push ya back. I have the seats out and the tracks off. Anyone know how to remedy this problem?
Fixing Power Seat Track?
- Thread starter 90lxwhite
- Start date
vertigasen
Active Member
This topic was moved because, while your car is a 5.0, it is still a SN-95 and shares more in common with the 96-04 crowd, than the Fox body platform.
With that said, the "slow down" issue is pretty common on older seats. There are a couple reasons. 1) the motor is just worn out. The motor just wears out after a while, needing to be replaced. 2) Broken gears/dry shaft-motor. The gears are known to break, and when the shaft dries out, it doesn't help things. 3) driver weight. I went to help a guy because his seat would barely work. I figured a quick tear apart, clean up, lube....and it would work. Well, when I got there, he was 280. The seat worked fine until he was in it, but with him in it, it barely moved. I still took it off, cleaned it up, but it didn't change anything.
Since you have the seats out already, the rebuild is actually pretty easy. There are some rivets that need to be popped, then put back, but a rivet gun from harbor freight with rivets can be had for less than $10. Pull the whole thing apart, look for rust, gunk or other crap stuck in the rail. I have seen melted M&Ms stuck in them..... Clean it all out, sand the rusted areas, or areas that are not smooth. I then usually use Rustoleum on the rails. The contact areas, I may go over with some very fine sand paper, to smooth it out, or even remove the paint all together in those areas. Grease it all up, and put it back together. Pay special attention to the gears, shaft, and rails. before you re-attach the motor, it should slide EASILY. If not, something is wrong. Add the motor. If it still barely moves, replace the motor. I get motors for $10-$15 at a pull-a-part type junk yard.
Good luck
With that said, the "slow down" issue is pretty common on older seats. There are a couple reasons. 1) the motor is just worn out. The motor just wears out after a while, needing to be replaced. 2) Broken gears/dry shaft-motor. The gears are known to break, and when the shaft dries out, it doesn't help things. 3) driver weight. I went to help a guy because his seat would barely work. I figured a quick tear apart, clean up, lube....and it would work. Well, when I got there, he was 280. The seat worked fine until he was in it, but with him in it, it barely moved. I still took it off, cleaned it up, but it didn't change anything.
Since you have the seats out already, the rebuild is actually pretty easy. There are some rivets that need to be popped, then put back, but a rivet gun from harbor freight with rivets can be had for less than $10. Pull the whole thing apart, look for rust, gunk or other crap stuck in the rail. I have seen melted M&Ms stuck in them..... Clean it all out, sand the rusted areas, or areas that are not smooth. I then usually use Rustoleum on the rails. The contact areas, I may go over with some very fine sand paper, to smooth it out, or even remove the paint all together in those areas. Grease it all up, and put it back together. Pay special attention to the gears, shaft, and rails. before you re-attach the motor, it should slide EASILY. If not, something is wrong. Add the motor. If it still barely moves, replace the motor. I get motors for $10-$15 at a pull-a-part type junk yard.
Good luck
Buying a seat motor from a you pull it is a horrible idea, even if it was free. When's the last time you were at a wrecking yard and saw a car w a working battery in it? Odds are you'd end up with a motor that's worse than the one you have.
vertigasen
Active Member
"Horrible idea"?!? What century are you living in?
1) 99% of the Pull-A-Part type places allow you to drive into the lot with tools, to pull the parts you need. Do you have a battery in your car? Do you have the capability to put an alligator clips on the end wires? Then you can test every electrical thing in the yard!
2) If I am not allowed to drive into a yard....then I have a 12v motorcycle battery on the dolly that I drag my tool box in with. That is called, "preparation - something done to get ready for an event or undertaking." If I am going to a yard for an intake manifold, I take different tools than if I was going for an axle.
Some people think they are above "junk yard" parts and everything has to be new. Why? Why pay over $100 for a Dorman aftermarket PI manifold when a Ford PI one is sitting in a junk yard, not a scratch on it, needing about 20 bolts removed and a couple plugs? It will cost you less than 1 hour of work, and $30.
Hours of driving across the metroplex hopping to find a 20 year old motor that works.
vertigasen
Active Member
You came here asking how to remedy your problem of the seat not moving well..... I simply tried to help by giving you 2 (TWO) options. You can be an ass all day, I don't care. You can pay $200+ for a $20 fix.....if you got the money, go for it. Why come and ask for help in the first place if you don't want it? Good luck your fix....
Here is the fix I think you are looking for. Check Ebay...there might be 1 or 2 for sale for less than $200.
I actually have one, a really nice one.
$18 + another $12 to clean it up pretty nicely. 1 yard visited, over 20 mustangs between 1994 and 1998, where these come from. First vehicle, got this one!
Here is the fix I think you are looking for. Check Ebay...there might be 1 or 2 for sale for less than $200.
I actually have one, a really nice one.
$18 + another $12 to clean it up pretty nicely. 1 yard visited, over 20 mustangs between 1994 and 1998, where these come from. First vehicle, got this one!
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